383 into 73 Dart Sport using exhaust manifolds

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royslead

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I plan on ditching the beat up, nearly closed tube headers someone installed this mess with. I have what appears to be what some call the "logs" and have a source for B Body HP manifolds. I know that those seem to be recommended, but do the "logs" work too? I don't have the budget for the fancy headers, so they are out. I have to pull the engine out anyways, so when it goes back in, here is what I need to know: manifolds on or off during the install? Currently, the steering column was removed, as well as the steering gear box (power). Can those items be installed BEFORE the engine, with the manifolds on? I bought this car in quite a few pieces, and have not yet begun to do any disassembly (much of that was already done). Now I am trying to sort out a practical way of assembly, for when the time comes.
 
The logs will work (some of them will work). You'll lose a little power, but the car will still be fun.
 
Hedman pn 78030
used them on a 67 Barracuda with a transplanted 383
 
Thank you for the replies, but what about the rest of the question(s)? Can or should the engine get re-installed with the manifolds on? Can the steering column and steering gearbox be installed prior to the engine?
 
In my experience the engine should be installed without the manifolds or steering column in place. Steering column is the last thing to go in.
 
70 71 big block HP manifolds will work not 67-69. Drivers side the flange is clocked different. You will have to cut the steering column back to the firewall. Used them several times. on 383 installs. RB 440's may need other mods.
 
The C body HP manifolds will fit sometimes with no modification. The only mods I'm aware of is "sometimes" you have to angle mill the driver's side so the outler is a little closer to the engine. Passenger's side falls in. With the C body manifold on the driver's side, there's zero need to cut the steering column housing if you want to retain the column shift.
 
Jadaharabi said:
You can use b body headers in an A body with the 383 and 400.
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I’ve done this before and I would not ever do that again. It will trap the starter in requiring header removal for a starter replacement. BUT……

It required minimal clearance adjustments with a BFH for the steering linkages on my ‘71 Duster. An easy to clearance job. They did fit in pretty darn good for an”B” body header in the “A” body car. For a on the cheap swap, it worked well.

It was very hard to remove them. A Sawzall was the answer and it was still a PIA.
 
I did several 383 plants in a-bodies using 1970 1971 road runner, super bee,Cuda and Challenger HP manifolds They fit right in and the pipes. I have Manifolds
 
Can anybody confirm some casting no's? I may or may not have "stupidly" bought a pair which claim to be useable. I'll have to get the no's
 
RustyRatRod said:
The C body HP manifolds will fit sometimes with no modification. The only mods I'm aware of is "sometimes" you have to angle mill the driver's side so the outler is a little closer to the engine. Passenger's side falls in. With the C body manifold on the driver's side, there's zero need to cut the steering column housing if you want to retain the column shift.
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But u can’t mill it too much as it can hit the block. 1/16 is about the max. Kim
 
rumblefish360 said:
I’ve done this before and I would not ever do that again. It will trap the starter in requiring header removal for a starter replacement. BUT……

It required minimal clearance adjustments with a BFH for the steering linkages on my ‘71 Duster. An easy to clearance job. They did fit in pretty darn good for an”B” body header in the “A” body car. For a on the cheap swap, it worked well.

It was very hard to remove them. A Sawzall was the answer and it was still a PIA.
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I installed mine with the K-frame off. Lots of room to maneuver! :thumbsup:

Starter access would be just as bad in the intended B-body too.

I agree they are otherwise a very decent fit for my application ('72 Dart, low-deck 451, 4-speed, manual steering) and saved me a ton of money.

Keep in mind that they don't fit with power steering or an RB engine, and I had to cut my steering column jacket back to the firewall so no column shift either.

Don't forget that the collectors don't line up properly with the humps in the torsion bar crossmember. I made doglegs from 18 degree mandrel bends. Then exhaust parts intended for A-bodies were much easier to fit.
 
The B body has more physical room around the header.
 
What about Hedman 78070 "shorty's?" I am just looking for the best way of putting on a decent exhaust system, within a practical cost. I read about TTI and Schumacher - not happening.
 
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DrCharles said:
On the outside, sure. It does not have more room between the header and the block and the starter... :rolleyes:
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The outside? Like standing outside of the car?

As a B body owner, the amount of real estate around the header under the car is far more roomy than the cramped quarters of the A body. Having been there and done that I assure you of this and the easier time you will have with these headers removing the starter from the B body vs the A bodies lack of room. Bank on that my friend. As a matter of fact, don’t bank on it, bet heavy on it. Real heavy.
 
Instead of de-railing this thread into a "which has more room around headers?" thread, let's keep to the topic please? I came here for genuine help with my exhaust, and while you both have valid points, you're relating it to a B body. Kind of irrelevant to what I am asking, though I appreciate the knowledge.
 
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fishmens67 said:
It's a gamble. The 78030 fit the low deck fairly well in most a- bodies.
I know of at least 20 people using them over the years, I've used 2 sets over the years in my 67 fastback. they fit better than some of my buddies headers do on their big block Chevy's.
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Took a closer look. Tube bends and routing look the same but flanges are diff and are welded differently
 
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