383 new rebuilt starting issue

[darty mcdartface]

I was finally able to go underneath my car and unfortunately the starter retracted when I turned the engine over. I decided that I was gonna look into my engine through the spark plug hole with a borescope to see if there's anything wrong there and then set my valve lash before trying to start it once more. The reason I want to set my valve lash again is because I noticed the #7 exhaust rocker had a bit of play when I first took the valve cover off. I loosened all the adjustment screws and then primed my oil system before doing anything else, so, in theory, the lifters would be pumped up and I could accurately set my lash. While doing that I noticed oil coming out from the rocker arms and not just the pushrods. I assumed before that the oil would naturally circulate there eventually (sounds quite dumb I know), but now I'm curious if that could've been part of my issue before. The noise coming from the engine was definitely a dry sound. I know I'm grasping at straws here, but I would like to exhaust every other area before having to rip into, and potentially remove, my new engine.

 

[mbaird]

Oil slinger on backwards?

 

[darty mcdartface]

Not to my knowledge. I made sure to triple check that guy because at first it was on backwards but didn’t look right so I went through some forums and videos, and put it on the correct way.

 

[PRH]

Solid or Hyd cam?

Can you go over your valve adjustment procedure?

 

[darty mcdartface]

Hyd cam

Turn the engine over until the #1 exhaust valve starts to move and then adjust the #1 intake valve to zero lash plus 1/2 turn more, rinse and repeat with the rest of the valves.

 

[mbaird]

So will the engine start and then make a noise or not start at all?

 

[darty mcdartface]

The engine will start but makes some dry and almost grinding like noise but I wouldn’t fully call it grinding if that makes any sense. I can’t really describe the noise too well but it’s definitely not a happy noise.

 

[mbaird]

Only so many things could create grinding noise.
Balancer to timing cover , timing chain if yo used thick headed bolts for cam plate maybe , torque converter/ flex plate rubbing on inspection cover, dipstick hitting crank , maybe rockers if you forgot a spacer , missing bearing shell , rod on backwards ….

 

[RustyRatRod]

So SIXTEEN days later and you're still crappin around. Pull the engine and tear into it. Something isn't right. It's not gonna fix itself.

 

[mbaird]

So SIXTEEN days later and you're still crappin around. Pull the engine and tear into it. Something isn't right. It's not gonna fix itself.

I understand his reasoning. Would hate to pull an engine only to find out that your inspection cover was hitting flexplate bolt. But if you’re finding metal in the oil it has to come apart .
I have spent the last 3 weeks trying to isolate an engine vibration in my new 408 . Changed pinion angles umptine times , rejetted same , 3 distributor curves , compression checks etc . Nope …. Balance job is wrong . Pulling the engine now and machinist is going to rebalance . Urghhh

 

[darty mcdartface]

So I just ran my engine again, not for too long, and it definitely sounded better than the last time but it sounds like there is a lot of top end noise. I ran it for around a minute again and there was nothing new in the oil but the sound didn’t really go away. I’m tempted to try running it longer to see if the valve train just needs time to oil up but I also don’t want to damage my engine. Any suggestions?

 

[RustyRatRod]

Yeah. Just keep runnin it till the noise stops.

 

[Demonx2]

Be sure the p/s pulley or damper pulley are not rubbing/grinding on either of the trans oil cooler lines going to the radiator. Don't ask me why I suggest that but.

 

[Bewy]

Remove the valve covers, & look for loose rockers. Loose rockers could mean lifters have not pumped up...or the lobes/lifters have wiped [ most UNlikely with such a short run time assuming everything weas correctly installed, adjusted & lubed ].
If some lifters have pumped up, it suggests they are getting oil. You could have bad/sticky lifters that may come good with a little run time & engine heat.

 

[matthon]

I loosened all the adjustment screws and then primed my oil system before doing anything else, so, in theory, the lifters would be pumped up and I could accurately set my lash.

I don't have adjustable rockers, but I imagine with hydraulic lifters if you loosen the adjustment screws then prime the oil system none of the lifters would get pumped up.

My brain ain't braining, someone learn me on this please.

 

[mygasser]

Yeah. Just keep runnin it till the noise stops.

yep it has 2 choices..... lifters pump up and it stops or..... it seizes up and it stops. go for it

 

[PRH]

Pull a V/C off, fire it up and see if the top is getting oil.
If it is, put the V/C back on, and then do the other side.

 

[darty mcdartface]

Rains finally gone away for a bit, broke in my engine. All seems good, thank you everyone for your help. My lifters weren’t properly adjusted, had a few loose ones, it’s my first time adjusting hydraulic lifters and even building a V8 so my own lack of knowledge definitely was a factor. To Mr ratrod, try being less cranky in the future as it is not helpful in the slightest and I’m glad I didn’t listen to you.

 

[RustyRatRod]

Rains finally gone away for a bit, broke in my engine. All seems good, thank you everyone for your help. My lifters weren’t properly adjusted, had a few loose ones, it’s my first time adjusting hydraulic lifters and even building a V8 so my own lack of knowledge definitely was a factor. To Mr ratrod, try being less cranky in the future as it is not helpful in the slightest and I’m glad I didn’t listen to you.

How bout this bud? How bout learning about engines so you can give an accurate description of noises next time? You got skin in this game too.