4.88 in a street/strip car?

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That's ok.

I'm not trying to roll race.

I've got a WRX for that. This car I want quick, not fast.

How fast you wanna drive with cops around?

I'd rather be first to 60 than first to 120...
 
I am Responding to the street part of your question
I too have an 11/1 360 , but with a 230* cam and an A833/3.09 low gear.
I ran 4.88s for about a week, but found that 15.08 starter gears outrageous. I pulled it for 4.30s but 13.29 was still useless. I whittled my way down to 3.55s with a 10.97 starter gear, which was just right for 325/50-15s DragRadials, on the street. That 10.97 corrects to 9.75TM at a 12" radius.

For you
4.88s x 2.45low gear x 12/14.5= a corrected 9.89 starter gear, which compares favorably to my 9.75 corrected. So Ima thinking if the 4.88s fit your budget, slam them in there.

Because you have a TC,a torque multiplication device on the startline, you could run a little less TM; the 4.56s you mention would likely be about puuuuurfect..........

To be really fast from zero to 60 you have to get the 60ft down, way down, and concentrate on traction....... because almost any V8 can get to 60 quickly with TM,once the spinning stops. This is why it's really fun to watch a well-prepped teener square off with a big lumpy cammed whatever, and watch Mr 318 show him taillights for aways.
 
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I am Responding to the street part of your question
I too have an 11/1 360 , but with a 230* cam and an A833/3.09 low gear.
I ran 4.88s for about a week, but found that 15.08 starter gears outrageous. I pulled it for 4.30s but 13.29 was still useless. I whittled my way down to 3.55s with a 10.97 starter gear, which was just right for 325/50-15s DragRadials, on the street. That 10.97 corrects to 9.75TM at a 12" radius.

For you
4.88s x 2.45low gear x 12/14.5= a corrected 9.89 starter gear, which compares favorably to my 9.75 corrected. So Ima thinking if the 4.88s fit your budget, slam them in there.

Because you have a TC,a torque multiplication device on the startline, you could run a little less TM; the 4.56s you mention would likely be about puuuuurfect...........IMO.


I have a 14:1 low gear and I'd like a bit more. It's easier on the clutch. And easier to drive.
 
I'm running 950 CFM on top of a dual plane. 3" super sucker.

Mechanical secondary, when she opens up it's over.

Wide band and plugs read good.

I want quick not fast.....

:)
 
Anyone running 4.88s in a street strip car?

Pops gave me a third member that has a spool with 4.88 for my 9 inch and I'm gonna try it out.

904 trans, 29 inch tire.
02-03 Springs on sliders

360, 30 over, 11-1 comp ratio

Thoughts?
Sounds like my Duster only with 28 inch tires, the next lighter springs & so close to 11-1 I call it 11-1.
Zero highway driving.
Having a ton-o-fun with it.
Best street light bandit set up.

What’s the worst that happens? You don’t like it and swap it back out?
 
02-03 springs on sliders.
No shocks yet.

Stock front end.

The car is gutted, (if I dont absolutely need it it got cut off and went in the trash) aluminum interior and 10 point cage.


I ran 75 25 on the rear with the 4 speed and a adjustable pinion snubber, I know they say for auto but they hooked harder than the 50 50,s on the rear and they were longer than stock.
90 10 on the front with 6 cyl bars worked, and it wouldn't hardly spin the tires in second just slam you back in the seat and go. Maybe left about 3 ft of rubber in second. Also remove the sway bars if you have them.
 

No water box at the stop light...

:)

General consensus, 4.88 and replace the copper cobras with some DOT radials for the win?
I hate to say that with 4.88’s and even a mildly powerful engine, nothing is going to stick. Your going to need to control the right foot and pay attention closely to how much power (foot force) you can apply before you spin the tires.

You probably won’t get to use the full travel of the pedal in first and I think you maybe lucky to get it all in on second.

There really isn’t a super sticky street compound that handles like it would at the track. Finesse!


I'm running 950 CFM on top of a dual plane. 3" super sucker.
Mechanical secondary
:)
Try a single plane and get rid of some torque.
You’ll probably still have plenty to blow the tires off with.

Edit-spelling
 
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I hate to say that with 4.88’s and even a mildly powerful engine, nothing is going to stick. Your going to need to control the right foot and pay attention closely to how much power (foot force) you can apply before you spin the tires.

You probably won’t get to use the full travel of the pedal in first and I think you maybe lucky to get it all in on second.

There really isn’t a super sticky street compound that handles like it would at the track. Finesse!



Try a single check lane and get rid of some torque.
You’ll probably still have plenty to blow the tires off with.



I ran old beat up BFG Comp T/A's best tire ever, hooked great it's all in the suspension set up. 275/60/15 with 4:88 on the street and it was bad ***, the car ran best time of 11.84 114.79 MPH with 29" slicks.
 
I ran old beat up BFG Comp T/A's best tire ever, hooked great it's all in the suspension set up. 275/60/15 with 4:88 on the street and it was bad ***, the car ran best time of 11.84 114.79 MPH with 29" slicks.
Then let me rephrase my “Midly powerful” engine parameters and suggest that releasing the car at launch with what I would consider, let’s say 550+hp small block is not going to stick on asphalt. Holding the engine until the launch rpm (this would be at least what I think a very mild 3500 rpm) will spin the tires.

When I suggest to walk it out, that would be a subtle 2K-2.5k rpm and a light throttle that slowly depressed at a rate as not to spin the tires.

I consider the favorite muscle car tire, the BFGoodrich radial T/A probably the worst tire for street racing. The BFG comps aren’t to great ether. But better than the TA.

Better off with some Mikey Thompson rubber.
 
27 inch tall M&H cheaters.
Hyup, remembered wrong
I'm on 27s too, but no traction, so my 10.97 is a dump it and go deal. I'm geared for 60~6400 in first-over, no stick-shift,usually still spinning. M&Hs eh......... or Comp T/As says Brian,meh, maybe one of these days.............
 
You don't use 4.88 and freeway in the same sentence in my book. Unless you want a ticket for driving to SLOW! You'll be the laughing stock on the freeway for sure. Here in Nebraska most drive 80-85, you get run over if you drive any less than 70.
THIS ^^^^^^^
I drive about 72 in a 65 , and almost the slowest on the hi way. That's in my drivers, the barracuda a little diff., but there is usually too much traffic to show the smart asses up!
 
When the Bimmers come flying up to me, I punch it, and before they get to my front bumper, we are doing 85 together. Then I back off and let them fly, as my pipes sing their goodbye song.
Then back into overdrive, heck-yeah!
 
Then let me rephrase my “Midly powerful” engine parameters and suggest that releasing the car at launch with what I would consider, let’s say 550+hp small block is not going to stick on asphalt. Holding the engine until the launch rpm (this would be at least what I think a very mild 3500 rpm) will spin the tires.

When I suggest to walk it out, that would be a subtle 2K-2.5k rpm and a light throttle that slowly depressed at a rate as not to spin the tires.

I consider the favorite muscle car tire, the BFGoodrich radial T/A probably the worst tire for street racing. The BFG comps aren’t to great ether. But better than the TA.

Better off with some Mikey Thompson rubber.

Yea if I just popped the clutch at 3500 it would not go anywhere just smoke the tires but if I was gentle on the launch and then stand on it it would go and traction was very good in second gear as long as you didn't over heat the tires by smoking them, I went to the drag strip with some friends and did a big smokie burnout, what a mistake couldn't go nowhere. There are much better street tires now but this was back in the 90's Comp T/A's were the best I found back then. There were better street tires but I was on a budget and got all my tires for free.
 
Free is for me and even better if it is in good shape.
It is impossible to find a really good all around tire for our machines in a 15 or 14 wheel size.

Right now, I like the Cooper Cobras for a driver.
Key word, “Driver.”
HP S/S rides get the Mickey SR’s.
 
I have nothing to offer on drivabilty on the street. I do know that my 4:10 gear is much easier to control than my 3:23 gear. With the 3:23 gear you get so much wheel speed when it spins that it is very difficult to stop it by peddling the car. Just takes FOREVER to stop!
 
When i was a kid I had a 302 powered '65 Chevelle that had Muncie/4.88's and 27" tires. With the clutches from those days it needed the 4.88's, but that same car would be much quicker today with better clutch setup and less ratio.

My current street/strip car is built to perform on zero prep airport runways and backroads with 55% rear weight and 28" MT radials. Manual trans and 3.73 (10.37 overall 1st gear), I can hook a 6000rpm launch on most warm roads without a burnout. When I spray, the 1st stage is usually on a delay so weight has a little time to transfer before the power hits.

When the road is really bad, I have enough clutch to pull off a 2nd gear launch (7.20 overall ratio). Cars with spools and lockers are basically uncontrollable when they get out of shape, so for safety reasons I use a TruTrac diff which gives me far better control if/when it breaks loose down the track. The gear style diff also greatly extends the life of street driven drag radials, I can coast thru a U-turn on a 2 lane road.

With 3.73 and 28" tires and no overdrive it's 2800-3000 down the freeway, but it still pulls down 20mpg.
 
My 64 has a Dana 60 4.56 powerlok and it will be street driven.
 
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