4" stroker rods

-
1Fast340

1Fast340

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 30, 2011
Messages
1,242
Reaction score
453
Location
Sweden
what rods will fit without any grinding for clearance in a 340 block with a 4"crank?
And no i wont use any Eagle SIR I-beams,i already know about the isues with those. just need something that will handle alitle over 600hp and say alitle over 7000rpm,it realy is a shame that i doubt that my present Eagle H-beams will fit without a substantial amount of cutting.
 
SCAT I beams will fit without any grinding at all. Get the ones with the ARP 2000 and they will support well over 650HP.
 
MRL Mike:thanks for the advice,will look into those rods!

Tbone,already have a set of Eagle H-profile rods and i have read enough about the grinding it takes to make them fit the block,they will stay with the rotating kit they belong to wich is a stock stroke one;)
 
MRL Performance said:
SCAT I beams will fit without any grinding at all. Get the ones with the ARP 2000 and they will support well over 650HP.
Click to expand...

Yep. Our are in a 416 that a touch under 600HP, but has seen 7200+ in the lights every pass.

200+ laps and we haven't driven over them yet! Motor is out for a freshen/cam and piston change/detune so I'll update when we check the rods.
 
dusterdoug said:
Yep. Our are in a 416 that a touch under 600HP, but has seen 7200+ in the lights every pass.

200+ laps and we haven't driven over them yet! Motor is out for a freshen/cam and piston change/detune so I'll update when we check the rods.
Click to expand...

Thanks thats some good knowledge,i bet your rods are fine since you havent driven over them:cheers:
 
Your current H-beams will work with just a few small notches in the bottom of the cylinder bores. Since you already have those, why not just notch the block and use them (I would)?

....But, if you want to change, then I second the Scat I-beam recommendation. I have those in my stroker, and they went in with no extra work. My motor is probably in the mid 500 hp range (never dynoed), runs mid 10's, 5 years on this motor so far.
 
Buying new connecting rods to save 20 minutes work with a die grinder doesn't make sense to me.
 
frosty_the_punk said:
Buying new connecting rods to save 20 minutes work with a die grinder doesn't make sense to me.
Click to expand...

flyfish said:
Your current H-beams will work with just a few small notches in the bottom of the cylinder bores. Since you already have those, why not just notch the block and use them (I would)?

....But, if you want to change, then I second the Scat I-beam recommendation. I have those in my stroker, and they went in with no extra work. My motor is probably in the mid 500 hp range (never dynoed), runs mid 10's, 5 years on this motor so far.
Click to expand...

several reasons,first of the H-beams already belong to a matched and balanced rotating assembly,second they are quite heavy and i already know all to well that a heavy rotating assembly isnt all that good for the poor shortblock ,third i hate to take any metal out of a stockblock that might end up living on the edge anyway,fourth most important i hate to grind on stuff when parts are available that actualy fits the space at hand and at the same time will give me a lighter rotating assembly that wont beat up the block as much.:D
 
Fair enough, if the rods you have are already part of a matching rotating assembly it's sensible to keep them together (if you actually plan to use that assembly again)

But it's worth noting that Eagle H beams are still lighter than factory rods and the amount necessary to be removed from the block for clearance is seriously small.

Here's an example from a carcraft build using eagle H-beams.
qj9m.jpg
 
I've only had to clearance for factory rods before. The rods that run the LeMans style cap screws rather than rod bolts and nuts have all cleared. It's not the beam or cap that hits - it's the corners of the nuts. It's been a while since I used them - but I don't recall having to clearance for Eagle H beams.
 
I used Scat H beam rods on mine only because they made a mistake and threw them in the box instead of the I beams I ordered. No clearancing was necessary.
 
Scat's I beams ,all the way. Did the 408 with factory rods,never again.
 
I have K1 rods in my 520 hp 408 engine. The rods were beautiful looking and I don't think there was any grinding required.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top