360 block bored 40 over.. Scat cast crank, (internally balanced) scat I beam rods, icon flat top pistons with valve reliefs total seal rings 11.3 to 1 compression .010 above deck.. 596 heads arp bolts with very mild porting with 202 valves. Crower Springs, Smith Brothers pushrods, Hughes 1.6:1 roller rockers.. originally a purple performance hydraulic cam given to Ken at Oregon cam grinders and ground into a solid lifter part number 175... At 259 intake 267 exhaust 107 lobe separation and 582 - 603 lift. Then he ground it leaving the 107 lobe separation making it a one-off cam, but with the rest of the specs being a part number 1313 which consists of it 238 248 duration and a 506 526 lift.. This all attached to a 440 source billet flywheel with arp bolts act technologies diaphragm clutch with arp with a Hays clutch disc.. a833 transmission topped with a Hurst v gate.. Into a Portland Driveline specialties Driveline with solid U-joints to a Dana 60 with a spool 354 gears 35 spline axles with green bearings and two and a half inch studs... Oh yeah and I just put a Nitrous system on it un tested...lol..
I have a roller regrind from Ken 214/224 @50 with a 110 lsa and .512 lift. Iit's pretty nice for building torque but sounds pretty mild. If I were to, (and I may) get another cam it will be from them but with a little more duration though not as much as yours probably. Ken hit this one on the nose for what I asked out of it. Yours should be pretty nasty sounding and run good both. Here's a link to a video of my exhaust with Flowmaster 40's and 2.5 dual exhaust. www.letsgocomputers.com/movies/idlesound.mov
My mistake for asking that question without the info. It's going into a 69 Dart resto mod, maybe 3200 lb? Just a tire burning street cruiser, maybe a rare 1/4 mile. 360 Magnum with stroker kit 9.8 static CR RHS heads by IMM Air gap intake 750 Holley carb Dougs 1 5/8 headers A833 OD (has to be a stick) 4.10 diff 28" rear tire (285/40/18 IIRC) HDK front susp.
Sorry, no build thread or anything just scattered mentions and small video's here and there. I don't post much of what I do with my car because I don't want to hear it. You know, you should have done this, and I would have done that. That's about to change here pretty soon because I'm going to need some video camera practice. I'll probably get that practice on the cars we have here, so people will be seeing more of them in more detail than they have before.
Dozens of build threads over the years.. You name it I'm shot at being built.... Could even includes other engines that I put in there and other automatic transmissions as well again you name it... Front end being built? Homemade headliner being built? Rear end being built..
Thumper lovers comp tjhumper lobes are on page 12 of the comp lobe catalog no .904 lobes Roll your own based on your needs following as some cams in the Thumper range ...............@.006 .050 .200 lift .200 where avilable Engle K56 274 224 149 .336 .504 XE275HL 275 231 153 .525 110LCA IC 64 ABDC Smallest comp .904 lobe Lunati 704 276/284 234/242 .513/.533 110LCA Voodoo Howard 277/283 230/236 531/537 110 LCA 340 cam 279 210 .429 2899206 intake @.006 stock 340 cam for comparison at 0.006 Thumper 279-296 227/241 486-473 107 318 Whiplash ??? 213 480 109 LCA Hughes 340 Whiplash ?? 223 550 107 LCA Hughes Purple Plus 280 233 148 .316 ,474 smallest Comp PP .904 lobe Rattler 281 227 .480 Howard voodoo 279 234 .513 voodoo intake lobe XE-HL 279 235 153 .356 .534 ...............006 .050 .200 lift Howards 279 256 232 152 .357 .535 Engle K58 282 230 148 ,343 ,514 276@.008 The super long exhaust makes no sense to me if headers or late/ aluminum heads and long even for stock heads ask yourself are you limited to half inch lift It would seem that the 340 Whiplash would Thump the Thumper and Rattler and the top four cams would be a better choice or get those lobes ground on whatever LCA floats your boat The bottom 4 are a little bigger than the thumper intake but may have a better intake/ exhaust split some exhaust lobes are not shown U pick
Cool info. Thanks. Sorry if I didn't clarify, I've already chosen, it's in the works. Just making conversation about it, and interested to get some idea what to expect from those who know more than me.
You have what you have, looks matched to me. Based on the car and everything else listed if you get it to hook (drag radials) IMO that should be a high 11’s beast easily, and if you work at it, maximizing everything by methodical tuning etc vs. throwing money at it and changing out stuff for more trick things for example: suspension parts, I’d think mid 11’s. Anyone disagree or think it would run even better?
Thanks. My original thought was something capable of breaking into the 12s. That was before going with a stroker.
Nice solid street build for sure, I also run an od a833 and love it. I think that cam will work good for what you have, its a touch small for my taste but it will have torque for miles. The only thing I would say is it will not idle quite like a thumpr but it will still have a nice lope and great street manners.
Well, my thought was to lean a bit toward torque. Your description is about what I was going for. I guess the final proof is yet to come but I'm optimistic. I plan to install advanced 4 degrees as long as Ken agrees. I suppose I could always try it straight up later for more top end. I'm about to put steel bushings in the A833 OD. Found a friend with a Bridgeport I can use to do that, and open up my bellhousing to fit the bearing retainer which will be turned down on his lathe. Glad you're liking yours. Is it stock or modded?
You definitely won't have a problem with torque!, I would be tempted to degree it in straight up myself, at any rate it will be a handful on the street when the clutch is dumped. Mine is a stock rebuilt cast iron case od that I had the bearing retainer machined down to fit my lakewood bell. The gear spread is as bad as they say but with a stroker the torque really helps cover it and that's where the cam you have will really shine. Eventually mine will hit the track and I am expecting less than optimum times for the hp but its a sacrifice I am willing to make for streetability with no cutting or thousands of dollars spent.
Sounds weird I know but these are for the countershaft which does not rotate in the bushing. It prevents tranny failure from the holes in the aluminum case enlarging. The Ultimate Mopar A-833 4-Speed Fix: Get Overdrive & Strength! - Hot Rod
Nice to have the cast iron case. I've heard many do fine with just the aluminum case but since I can do it I will.
Don't forget to p.m. me when you take it down to the track! I want to be there for sure... I'm positive with your accompanying trick flow heads LOL you'll have the last laugh...
I think when I rebuilt my 4-speed I put in new bearings, seals, synchros, and steel shift forks and new shifter throws and new shifter ears just to tighten everything up...
I was going to do the same but when I got in there everything was so pristine I decided to just do the bushings.
Not all of it. The big duration split with late exhaust valve closing adds to it as well. Of course, you can argue those two features also add overlap.
When I open my transmission up I was surprised that wasn't messed up. Something terrible happened at the track at the starting line and it turned out to be the rear end LOL it was one of those things that if I'm going to do this and I'm going to take it apart this far I'm going to spend the extra fifty bucks for synchros.. And the shifter levers were more so for the part that sticks out of the case we rounded a little bit and not gripping the shifter ears nice and tight and I wanted a nice tight shift..
