408 roller cam?

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4.56’s? Yikes! That’ll create some hustle!!!!

Tire diameter?

A 3K stall is a good stall for a street machine. The cam in your first post won’t even think about making power for a bit more rpm’s to say the least.
 
Bigger cam option from Ken would be F2151. 233/241@ .050, 289/[email protected], 110 LSA, 105 ICL, 115 ECL, 340/.340 lift (.544 with 1.6:1). This would be my go to with the 4.56 gears.
 
Recently sold a factory hyd roller to a member here who had me ship it to Bullet up in Tennessee for a regrind. Certainly know a thing or two there I’m thinking. Not that far from the OP. Worth a look IMO
 
No Doubt! Bullet probably has some high tech grinds that will push the limit of what can be done with the stock core.
 
Personally I’d have that 110 moved to a 106.
If that’s a hydraulic roller truck block, then your in luck. Here’s the email straight from Ken himself.

Garrett

There are several different cam profiles for the 5.2L/5.9L roller cams. Most of the truck cams are on 106 to 111 lobe sep and most the the passenger car cams are 114 to 116. We have ground a lot of them lately. We can move the sep a couple of degrees one way or the other and increase the lobe lift to about .320” maybe .340” depending in what core you have
 
There are larger cams past the last I posted, but the .006 duration is over 300 degrees and the ICL is 110 or higher. So those aren’t going to be an option unless you got cylinder pressure (11:1 MINIMUM, probably more!) to bleed off.
 
106 - 111? That’s a very wide variance.
Being that 360 hydraulic roller cam engines where used when optioned in Ramchargers (2 & 4 WD), 3/4 and full ton trucks, and 3/4 & full ton vans, I imagine there where a lot of different emissions criteria to meet for each vehicle through the years.
As an example, I’ve got a 1990 318 industrial hydraulic roller out of a Ramcharger with .386 lift intake and exhaust and a 1987 W100 garden variety 318 with a .417 intake and .386 exhaust. I haven’t degreed them to see the final outcome but I imagine they’re going to be an interesting comparison.
 
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Largest he has that can be ground onto the stock core is the copy of a 291 thumpr.
Grind number 1713:
235/[email protected], 291/[email protected], 107 LSA (build it with 10.5:1 or better and put it on the narrowest LSA that the cam will hold if you can get to 106 or less), intake centerline 102 exhaust centerline 112, .338/.329 lift, .541/.526 with 1.6 rockers. It should be closer to that "somewhat streetable” goal, which I’m guessing is closer to “biggest thing I can stand on the street with 3000 stall. It would really make use of those 4.56 gears.
 
Being that 360 hydraulic roller cam engines where used when optioned in Ramchargers (2 & 4 WD), 3/4 and full ton trucks, and 3/4 & full ton vans, I imagine there where a lot of different emissions criteria to meet for each vehicle through the years.
As an example, I’ve got a 1990 318 industrial hydraulic roller out of a Ramcharger with .386 lift intake and exhaust and a 1987 W100 garden variety 318 with a .417 intake and .386 exhaust. I haven’t degrees them but I imagine they’re going to be an interesting comparison.
It did in fact come out of a 91’ ram charger.
 
Commonly listed as a 249/269 advertised duration .410/.417 lift with 49 degrees of overlap and a 117 ICL. The 5.9 hydraulic roller I measured from an ‘89 W250 matched up with the lift. The other numbers are where the original target at the start of production and got reworked as needed for emissions compliance. On a side note, it made a 5.2 magnum engine into a grunt stump puller engine with the 1.6 rocker ratio. You’re usually going to have a higher than targeted ICL (the exhaust centerline will be equally affected by the LSA, but there’s only 1 degree or so of adjustment per lobe from the lobe centerlines) with a regrind because the lobes being indexed with some retard to start with. If possible, it’s best to send the core in and see what it will grind in at before deciding on your compression ratio. Of course, you can also advance it another 4 degrees upon installation, but if you have a stock 117 ICL (not likely, I’ve seen more in the 110-114 range) you’re going to need some serious static cylinder pressure if you have a lot of duration added to it. That is unless unless he’s filing the key way in the cam and sprocket mount and re indexing it. I imagine that is probably part of the deal, but I haven’t asked him yet. He is pretty adamant about sticking as close to the overall numbers as possible.
 
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i can offer a hydraulic roller cam, comp custom grind on a cast core to use with stock hydraulic roller lifters and oil pump drive. It´s 248/248°@.050", 113° LSA, .580"Lift with 1.5 Rockers. If interested just let me know.

Michael
That sounds like a good street cam 360 Duster!
 
I dug out the paperwork and found I had missed another good candidate for the stock core, grind 2067.
239/251 288/304 106 LSA 105/107 icl/exl and .335/.335 lobe lift. That’s as big as it will go before it has to go on one of his steel cam cores.
 
I settled up with 360Duster and he sent me his roller cam. I felt it was a fair priced and around what I’m after. Just got it today all the way from Germany to Georgia. So what do you guys think? 360 .020 overbore, 4” scat crank, scat I beams, 190cc CNC crapmaster heads, Dana 60 4:56 spool, 904 reverse manual valve body, airgap intake, stock electronic ignition. The pistons I don’t seem to have a lot of information on. They don’t make them anymore. Cam specs in photo. Will it haul groceries or what? I have mostly everything but a good oil pan, bearings, seals, head gaskets etc…I have all the hard parts.

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Gonna be a dog out of the gate on a 113, especially unless you have LOTS of compression. Even then it will be soggy.
To me, wide LSA cams like this one are best used for nitrous, and not N/A stuff
 
Looks like a fuel injection cam. Or NOS?
The CNC Speed master heads are pretty OK for a OOTB head and will take just a little work to get more cfm out of them on the common wall in the back at the bolt bulge, etc…

Why a dual plane?
 
Looks like a fuel injection cam. Or NOS?
The CNC Speed master heads are pretty OK for a OOTB head and will take just a little work to get more cfm out of them on the common wall in the back at the bolt bulge, etc…

Why a dual plane?
I guess I’ll have to through some nitrous to it. The dual plane I already have. I thought with the dual plane and 4:56 it wouldn’t be such a dog out the hole, coupled with the 904 low gear set it probably should help it wouldn’t it? Clearly, I just buy random **** and through it together. I don’t know what the hell I’m doing? Haha I’m learning.
 
I guess I’ll have to through some nitrous to it. The dual plane I already have. I thought with the dual plane and 4:56 it wouldn’t be such a dog out the hole, coupled with the 904 low gear set it probably should help it wouldn’t it? Clearly, I just buy random **** and through it together. I don’t know what the hell I’m doing? Haha I’m learning.

What does car weigh? Any idea of where you expect converter to flash?
Using brake or foot brake?
To me, there is nothing correct about that cam
For a half way stout stroker, 248@50 is dinky. Some might argue that point, but I have never seen it disproved at the track. My current cam is 260@50, and it ran extremely well in a 10 to 1 stock stroke 360, it’s actually dinky now in a stroker. You would need a real converter, but there is no reason not to have a real one.
The LSA is gonna make it numb out of the gate, no matter the bandaids you throw at it. The right cam will walk away from this one. I honestly would sell it and get something useable.
You ask for opinions. Sorry to say, I know of what I speak on this.
I Tried a 112 on a good combo, it made it a dog, big mistake I made even trying it
 
I hear you man, I’m just not at your level of expertise. Nor am I trying arguing, the car is a 67 barracuda fastback that’s not ready for anything as of yet it’s my parts car to my street car. However, i have enough parts now to turn it into a hot street/strip car. I would like the car to be around 3000lbs with driver I’m 240 so I’ll have cut some weight out of it.
 
I hear you man, I’m just not at your level of expertise. Nor am I trying arguing, the car is a 67 barracuda fastback that’s not ready for anything as of yet it’s my parts car to my street car. However, i have enough parts now to turn it into a hot street/strip car. I would like the car to be around 3000lbs with driver I’m 240 so I’ll have cut some weight out of it.

I am far from an expert, just have tried enough things that didn’t work, to know what does work…if that makes any sense.
At the end of the day, you got all that stuff laying around…run it and have fun. :thumbsup:
 
I settled up with 360Duster and he sent me his roller cam. I felt it was a fair priced and around what I’m after. Just got it today all the way from Germany to Georgia. So what do you guys think? 360 .020 overbore, 4” scat crank, scat I beams, 190cc CNC crapmaster heads, Dana 60 4:56 spool, 904 reverse manual valve body, airgap intake, stock electronic ignition. The pistons I don’t seem to have a lot of information on. They don’t make them anymore. Cam specs in photo. Will it haul groceries or what? I have mostly everything but a good oil pan, bearings, seals, head gaskets etc…I have all the hard parts.

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You are going to need a loose converter, 4500-4800 or better and good sticky tires.
 
I´m pretty sure it won´t be a dog out of the hole.....at least mine was not when i ran this cam. The 4.56 Gears might be overkill.....what Tires do you run? I agree regarding the converter, i run a 8" that flashes to 5000 rpm, works good for me.

The listed parts combined should make a fun street / strip car.

Michael
 
I run a 246/[email protected]” solid roller In my stroker with a 3500 stall and 4.10 gear. Nothing dinky about any of what I got. Runs 11.40’s, wheels up at launch, impressive 60’ etc and is more streetable and enjoyable on longer drives than when I had a [email protected] cam and looser 4000 stall. YRMV
A 4.56 is no good on a 408 IMO. But to each his own. Have fun regardless
 
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