410 stroker build?

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Also, Im thinking about building a 318 stroker insted of a 360... to be different and also, 318= .040 over + 4inch stroke = 392ci... A mopar number :)

If you have to puchase a block still I would go with the 360. It wouldnt make any since not to gain the extra cubes if you can.
 
those rhs heads are good for 450'ish hp out of the box.

you will need pop up retainers to get more installed height when going over.500 lift with the ootb valves/springs/ setup.
 
OTB=Out of the box.I have the Eddy RPM heads complete that I got a steal on from a member here.I,m also building a 408 and am shooting for 550hp with some P&P.I bought the Eagle stroker kit with H-beam rods and should have around 10.2 compression.Good luck,I,d go 360!
 
Thanks guys. The biggest reason id go with a 318 is because with a 360 pan, I hear you have to modify the k member..
 
Thanks guys. The biggest reason id go with a 318 is because with a 360 pan, I hear you have to modify the k member..

no you don't. you just need a front or center sump (can't remember which) oil pan from a passenger car. truck pan is different. you will need a drop center steering link to clear the oil pan and swap mounts from Shumacher. Really its no harder than a 318 swap and why give up the extra cubic inches, especially since you are in such a quest for horsepower. don't forget to swap to a stronger rear axle, too.

-tim
 
I would go 360 block and ported Edelbrocks. Those prices Brian (ou812) posted up are pretty good considering you are getting a bolt on ready head matched to your cam. When selecting heads you have to take into account valve springs/locks/retainers which will need to be upgraded on most heads given the hp goals you have. And any head you buy should be gone over by a pro to make sure valve guide clearance is right and valve job is correct.

I went with Edelbrocks (ported by Shady Dell Speed) because of the weight savings, they met my power goals, and are probably the most commonly used head so any issues could be easily resolved. A 360 block, 4" crank, ported Edelbrocks, and a good cam will make that little car of yours a total street terror. You'll have no problem scaring passengers with an engine like that in that car.
 
Haha. Thats what Im shooting for. The weight savings of the alum eddys over the iorn heads really gets me thinking.. power/weight ratio 8)
 
Would there be any way to build a little 904 to handle the power that this motors going to put out? I was probobly going to end up running a built 727, but the 904 would be lighter, need less power to turn, and be easier to fit in my little a-body. Thanks

Also, I may have found a block to start with.. Its a 75 360 truck block thats been sitting out in a yard for a while for 100 bucks. Thats not the catch though, if I get it magnafluxed and it ends up not being useable, they'll extange it for free..
 
Recently I've also been looking into STS turbo systems.. STS sells single and twin tailpipe turbo kits that are universal and very reasonalbly priced for what you get in the kits.. I could build a decent 318 or most likely a 360, and put it to some boost and get some insane numbers8)

http://www.ststurbo.com/universal_turbo_systems

Just wondering what you guys thought..
 
Recently I've also been looking into STS turbo systems.. STS sells single and twin tailpipe turbo kits that are universal and very reasonalbly priced for what you get in the kits.. I could build a decent 318 or most likely a 360, and put it to some boost and get some insane numbers8)

http://www.ststurbo.com/universal_turbo_systems

Just wondering what you guys thought..


I think you'll find that once you start cramming the v-8 and headers into your engine bay you'll see that there is very little room left for turbo plumbing. There is also not much room anywhere underneath the car for the remote turbos. If you can hit your 500hp goal that will be more than enough to get you into trouble. You should probably think about a cage and frame connectors to stiffen up the chassis to handle that much hp. While turbo's can make great power, they also cost geometric $$$ in associated parts to handle that power. You'd have to convert to EFI to avoid massive tuning headaches and IMO its just not worth it unless you are building either an all-out competition drag car or a show queen. If you just want to have a fun driver you can take to the track, stick with your original 500hp plan.
-Tim
 
if you really want to run a turbo you could always ditch your v-8 plan and build the slant for it instead.
 
I was going to modify a carb to be blown through, so no efi for me.. and I know what your saying about the plumbing thing, the only reason I was considering this was because the universal turbo kit is only 2k. And only 1k more to go with twins. I was originally going to pay that much for my heads alone.....
 
but you'll probably have to spend an additional 2k or MORE upgrading the motor and chassis/driveline to handle the boost and associated hp increase. an upgrade in one area must usually lead to another or it turns into broken parts.
-Tim
 
This I know, trust me there....

If I kept the compression to like 9 to one and did a nice performance small block build up using all ARP bolts and forged pistons.. It should be able to handle it.. Right? I mean were olnly talking about like 10-13lbs of boost. And building a stoker motor thats 500hp and building a boosted smaller small block motor using the same type parts to get to 500, should be able to take it, if Im thinking correctly.

As for the rest of the car, I was going to upgrade all of it anyways.. Roll cage, sub frame con., bigger diff, suspention, ect.
 
Im only shooting for the 500hp range btw. Im just conversing about different ways to get there..
 
Anyone here familar with boosted small blocks?
 
A bit off subject here, but I wanted to show you guys a couple of vids of the old truck Ive also been working on...

Shes a 63 chevy (sorry guys) C10 short/step with a nice little 283 bulit on my livingroom floor by me and my dad..
 
Thanks, yea Ive been watching your progress.. Its a far cry now from when you got it with that slant=P~
 
Forget the W2s. They are as old a design as Mopars cams. Eddy heads are better and ported out flow them. I had mine ported at Hughes and cost about the same as you are going to pay for good roacker arms.Better bang for the buck lighter and can run more compressoin on pump gas. I'm making over 600 hp with them.
 
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