416 - Solid Roller Camshaft Recommendation

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superstock64polara

superstock64polara

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Hey guys, I was hoping for a cam recommendation by guys with real world experience for my 416. The motor is partially screwed together at the moment and I have a Hughes Engines solid flat tappet stick for it HTL5256AS - 110LSA (252/256 @ 0.050 0.572/0.579 lifts 110LSA) but was looking for a solid roller that would be 'streetable' and provide power with reliability:

* 71 340 block up 0.030'
* 4inch MP crank
* Eagle rods 6.123'
* Ross forged pistons (dished -21cc)
* Edelbrock RPM heads ported to stage 2 by SDSS (274cfm/214cfm peak)
* 55cc chambers, 0.027' Cometic head gasket, 0.039' quench distance
* 11.2:1 compression
* Edelbrock Super Victor intake
* Pro Systems 950HP carby - flows 840cfm
* 1 3/4, 4 into 1 pipes, 3 inch collector
* 727 Torqueflite with Cheetah reverse pattern shift
* 4,5000 converter
* 9 inch, locker, 31 spline axles, 4.56 final drive

I'm looking to run a 10 second pass on pump gas in my 3,500lbs Australian Charger (A Body). What do you guys think of the Hughes solid cam I have? What solid roller would you recommend that will be reliable and make good power? Please, I would prefer to hear from people with race and street car experience running similar cams with similar combos.
Thanks

Chris
*
 
Nice combination, and Thanks for providing all the specs!. What is the actual rear tire height? Slicks/Drag Radials? I would start there,first. You're damn close.
 
http://www.lunatipower.com/Product.aspx?id=1554&gid=290

Running this is my stroker. For off the shelf it excellent. You won't need as much converter as you have planned, at least I wouldn't think so. I'm only running a 3200 converter on the street( tires go up in smoke at will), I'd say 4000max for racing. On the dyno I had 500ft/lbs in by 4000rpm. Only real difference for my build is Indy top end, and I'm running 1.6 t&d rockers. I'm at 12.2:1 for compression. Dyno'd at 605/557.
I was running 4.30s with 29" tall M/T, now I'm running 3.55s with 26" tall drag radials. No track time, it's a cruiser/show car.
 
Your setup is very similar to mine. Although my engine isn't together yet, the cam that was chosen has 266/272 dur @ .050, .645" lift with 1.5 rocker, on 106 LSA. Street and strip intentions, 4:10 gear, 5500 stall, 28" tire.
 
You can get some powerful and radical cams from Hughes. You just gotta make sure you don't wipe the lobes. The thing with the roller is that you don't have to worry about wiped lobes, you have faster ramp speeds, you'll get into your power curve faster, custom grind roller costs the same as an off the shelf unit, etc. BUT you're gonna end up paying about 3 times more for a set of roller lifters and cam over a flat tappet setup. If you've got the budget, go roller.
 
I think with your current cam you should be real close.

My engine combo is very close to the same as yours:

410 cubes
SDSS stage 2 ported Edelbrock heads
57cc chamber
10.89:1 compression
Comp XR286R solid roller (248/254 duration @ 0.05, .576/.582 lift)
Victor intake
750dp
1 3/4 tube headers
727
8" converter, 5000 stall
MO875 rear end, 35 spline axles, spool with 4.10 gears
28x11.5 Hoosier quick time pro tires
3200lbs Barracuda

My car is 300lbs lighter, also street/strip, and runs mid 10's on e85...it ran just a little slower on pump gas (6.76 was my best 1/8 mile on pump gas). Since you have steeper gears you could probably go a little bigger on the cam, but I think you should be close to high 10's as is. My cam is a little small, but it works well and it's easy on parts.
 
flyfish said:
I think with your current cam you should be real close.

Since you have steeper gears you could probably go a little bigger on the cam, but I think you should be close to high 10's as is. My cam is a little small, but it works well and it's easy on parts.
Click to expand...


x2. The flow test on the heads - was that local or from Shady Dell? I think it the combo is well sorted in terms of suspention and you can stick it, you have enough for it as is. If the chassis sucks you have to way overpower it to make it go anywhere. The tire height question is good - you may be too high at the traps. Also the convertor is a big deal on these. If it's a cheap 10" 4500 you'll need to upgrade.
 
Any idea what the car weighs? That will have a huge effect on converter/cam choice.

As was mentioned, what size is the converter? If it is a 10" 4500 stall, you mine as well put a stock one in :)
 
superstock64polara said:
I'll be running a 10in wide 28in tall slick at the track
So you guys think the Hughes flat tappet solid is a winner, no need for a solid roller?
Click to expand...

I tried the Hughes solid lift cam, followed their instructions to the letter and used their recommend breaking lube and still lost two lobes.
Goin roller this time.
 
6pkScamp said:
I tried the Hughes solid lift cam, followed their instructions to the letter and used their recommend breaking lube and still lost two lobes.
Click to expand...

got 2 hughes solid cams in use...another one in an 408 sitting on engine stand..and another one that was in a 340..going back in a 360 later this year...plus my 73 Duster had one of their hydraulic cams...and again..no problems with it either....so?

and hughes does not grind the cams...they have a vendor that does it...used to be Engle..dont know who it is now..
 
70aarcuda said:
got 2 hughes solid cams in use...another one in an 408 sitting on engine stand..and another one that was in a 340..going back in a 360 later this year...plus my 73 Duster had one of their hydraulic cams...and again..no problems with it either....so?

and hughes does not grind the cams...they have a vendor that does it...used to be Engle..dont know who it is now..
Click to expand...

Thanks 70aarcuda, apart from the cams breaking in well with no issues are you happy with the result? Do the cam profiles work in your small blocks?
 
Yes..I am happy with the result...only problem with hughes cams is the price of 250 bucks..

Howards Cams make alot of new fast ramp solid lifter cams...I can get them from Summit for about 100 bucks less...
 
70aarcuda said:
got 2 hughes solid cams in use...another one in an 408 sitting on engine stand..and another one that was in a 340..going back in a 360 later this year...plus my 73 Duster had one of their hydraulic cams...and again..no problems with it either....so?

and hughes does not grind the cams...they have a vendor that does it...used to be Engle..dont know who it is now..
Click to expand...

I believe Bullet has been grinding their cams for a while now.
 
i have a new one for sale 266/272 it will put you in the 10.60 s
 
If you want the best performance, call someone who does camshafts. They will also want headflow #'s.


Ray
 
Thanks for all your good advice, I think the only way to go is to get a custom ground solid roller cam made to suit the combo. Going to have a word to Brian Hafliger from IMM.

Update: I've bought a new top end setup for the 416 short motor. I have a fresh pair of W7's with a 7 angle competition valve job, 2.20 / 1.625 valves, and flow 350 / 250 cfm at 0.700' lift. These come with a big Arrington intake and a set of 1.7 ratio T&D's. There are also spacers for the intake to suit a 59 degree block and a valley cover. The W7's suit a 59 degree block.

What cams do you guys run in similar pump gas combos?
What type of solid roller lifter works for a street driven car that will see some limited track time?
 
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