426 Hemi in a 69 Dart

[inkjunkie]

My headers are all welded, no spring & tabs. If I was to build another set I might consider springs and tabs. It makes more sense.

I see you have a plastic mock up motor too. I bought a used one off of Racing Junk last year for half price. It sure saves all the grunt work when locating the motor plates and trans mount. I have no idea why I didn`t buy one when they first came out.

There is a member here that owns the plastic block. Both of out cars were mocked up with it. When John went to put his motor in it became very apparent that some of the plastic blocks dimensions were off. In my picture it cleared the uncut right inner fender with room to spare. Johns valve cover was sitting right on the inner fender......

 

[sscuda]

There is a member here that owns the plastic block. Both of out cars were mocked up with it. When John went to put his motor in it became very apparent that some of the plastic blocks dimensions were off. In my picture it cleared the uncut right inner fender with room to spare. Johns valve cover was sitting right on the inner fender......

I never take anything for granted. I measured the motor (front to back ) and compared it to the plastic mock-up motor. Thankfully there wasn't any noticable difference. Now the heads are another story. My StageV Millenium II AL heads are a full 1/2 in. wider and 1/2 in. taller compared to the heads on the plastic motor. I allowed for that when I modified the right shock tower. I tried uploading a suitable picture but it failed. My "relief" in my right shock tower is much more pronounced than you show in your pictures. And in doing it this way I had more work to the upper shock bracket.

My "street" motor has been in and out of the car twice now before paint and it fits but it's tight. LOL!!!

 

[inkjunkie]

I never take anything for granted. I measured the motor (front to back ) and compared it to the plastic mock-up motor. Thankfully there wasn't any noticable difference. Now the heads are another story. My StageV Millenium II AL heads are a full 1/2 in. wider and 1/2 in. taller compared to the heads on the plastic motor. I allowed for that when I modified the right shock tower. I tried uploading a suitable picture but it failed. My "relief" in my right shock tower is much more pronounced than you show in your pictures. And in doing it this way I had more work to the upper shock bracket.

My "street" motor has been in and out of the car twice now before paint and it fits but it's tight. LOL!!!

I believe the distance between the bell housing mount and the water pump mount was off a bit on Johns block as when he went to put the HEMI in his car it required a spacer of sorts, least that is what it looked like when I saw it.

Do you use Tim (For Hemis Only) for your motors?

 

[sscuda]

I believe the distance between the bell housing mount and the water pump mount was off a bit on Johns block as when he went to put the HEMI in his car it required a spacer of sorts, least that is what it looked like when I saw it.

Do you use Tim (For Hemis Only) for your motors?

I guess I got lucky with my plastic block. It's going in my bar area when I find the time to accessorize it.

I used Tim, up until he decided to become a machining source for a bunch of mountain motor engine builders. He has been working on a 1000 cubic inch aluminum billet block and head design for the past 2-3 years. I hope he decides to start building engines again soon, the man has talent.

The "street motor" I have now is essentially home built with the machining done locally. The heads are from FHO in a round about way. The motor has been run on the stand and that's about it. No dyno time.

 

[Bakerlite]

I'm putting one in, I'm using the stock smallblock K frame with a slight mod to the LH mount, home made engine mounts and some TTI headers.

 

[nothingbutdarts]

I'm putting one in, I'm using the stock smallblock K frame with a slight mod to the LH mount, home made engine mounts and some TTI headers.

We need pictures!!!!

 

[Bakerlite]

Ok. This is from when I was getting the motor in the correct position for the headers and getting ready to make the mounts. I'll take some more pics later when I get a chance. Just busy with another project at the moment.

 

[nothingbutdarts]

Ok. This is from when I was getting the motor in the correct position for the headers and getting ready to make the mounts. I'll take some more pics later when I get a chance. Just busy with another project at the moment.

Looking good!

 

[sscuda]

Ok. This is from when I was getting the motor in the correct position for the headers and getting ready to make the mounts. I'll take some more pics later when I get a chance. Just busy with another project at the moment.

Bakerlite,

It helps a lot if you "space" the K frame 1 inch from the bottom of the sub-frames and move the steering box 1 inch to the left so it's tight to the DR side sub-frame.

From the picture I`d guess the right shock tower to valve cover clearance is going to be a little tight.

Good luck with your installation.

:glasses7:

 

[Bakerlite]

Thanks, I've already dummied it up with the TTI Headers and they fit well around the steering box, so I'll leave the box where it is.. As you pointed out, next step is to modify the RH inner fender. I'm making most parts, engine mounts, K frame mods, sump etc for this build myself.
Cheers

 

[sscuda]

Thanks, I've already dummied it up with the TTI Headers and they fit well around the steering box, so I'll leave the box where it is.. As you pointed out, next step is to modify the RH inner fender. I'm making most parts, engine mounts, K frame mods, sump etc for this build myself.
Cheers

I've attached a couple of pix that might help with your inner fender mods. I hope they help in some way.

 

[ssba]

I realize this is a old thread but i thought i could add to it what I have done as it differs from
others efforts.
Here's another pic for ya to look at, This is my home built version of the OEM 68 bo29 K-frame.
Spacers are pinched between framerails and K-frame here also as mentioned above.
I did my research before I built this frame to determine how ma Mopar fit their Hemi in the A's. As best I can tell the starting point was the big block K-frame and modified from there.
I didn't have a 383 k-frame to start with so I used a 68 small block and removed engine mounting stands. Made the Hemi pads and welded them on. Havent added it yet but there is one small remnant of a bracket that is not on my frame yet that was on the originals. Basicly it would have been a cut down bracket left over from its time as a 383 k-frame. It would have no use with the Hemi pads welded on but was left on to go for the ride. For whatever reason they didn't remove it. Most original cars I have seen have had this brace and much more of the frame cut away over time to suit the racers needs.
Hope this information helps someone who is looking to do a vintage build as I am.
Best of luck with your Hemi A-body.