42RH in 68 Dart advice/request

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RogerRamRod

The Older I Get, The Faster I Was
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This seems simple enough yet…

The backstory;

Two years ago, I took a 42RH from a Dakota to a shop to be rebuilt. Well, the car project got put on hold because of family issues, time, my ineptitude, and whatever else.

I finally recently get the car registered and insured and make an appointment for an alignment shop. Finally after 10 years of messing around, I drive it, and it was glorious. Everybody at the alignment shop was impressed with the car, looking at it, asking questions, etc., I was enjoying every minute of it.

I drove the 3 miles back home and started poking around and found oil all over the crossmember. I pulled the motor out and got a better pan gasket and checked to make sure the windage tray wasn’t interfering anywhere and all that.

When I was installing the engine, I noticed a trans fluid leak also, so I drained it to pull the pan and noticed the fluid seemed much darker than I would expect for 7 miles. The bottom of the pan and the filter were full of friction material.

It has a manual valve body from John Cope, so there is no throttle pressure cable and the transmission seemed to shift OK. I wasn’t perceiving any slippage, yet apparently there must have been.

Even with no mileage, it’s been two years, I expect the shop isn’t going to warrantee it, but I try to call them anyway and they are out of business. I asked for recommendations on the local Mopar club forum on Facebook and got a couple responses. One of the guys can’t be found.

I called the other guy and told him I had a 42RH from a Dakota in a 68 Dart. Instantly he tells me that can’t be done. I asked him why and he said it’s a computer control transmission. I said no, it’s a 42RH, it’s hydraulically controlled, the later 42RE is the computer control model.

He then says the overdrive is electrically controlled so there isn’t a way to control that. I said this is done all the time, the overdrive just needs 12 Volts engage/disengage and a simple switch can handle that. He then says besides, the Driveshaft is too long. I said that has already been handled by simply getting a shorter drive shaft, I have driven this car… You know what, never mind, it really doesn’t sound like you’re the person that can help me.



So, now to the question;

What specialized tools are required to do a rebuild myself.
I figure if I have to explain it to a transmission guy, that I can probably handle the task. I know I’ve previously seen tutorials, I just don’t remember where, so I guess its back to Google. And I guess its one more summer of not driving it, though I’ve gotten a teaser.
Thanks in advance for any info you might share,
Rod
 
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This seems simple enough yet…

The backstory;

Two years ago, I took a 42RH from a Dakota to a shop to be rebuilt. Well, the car project got put on hold because of family issues, time, my ineptitude, and whatever else.

I finally recently get the car registered and insured and make an appointment for an alignment shop. Finally after 10 years of messing around, I drive it, and it was glorious. Everybody at the alignment shop was impressed with the car, looking at it, asking questions, etc., I was enjoying every minute of it.

I drove the 3 miles back home and started poking around and found oil all over the crossmember. I pulled the motor out and got a better pan gasket and checked to make sure the windage tray wasn’t interfering anywhere and all that.

When I was installing the engine, I noticed a trans fluid leak also, so I drained it to pull the pan and noticed the fluid seemed much darker than I would expect for 7 miles. The bottom of the pan and the filter were full of friction material.

It has a manual valve body from John Cope, so there is no throttle pressure cable and the transmission seemed to shift OK. I wasn’t perceiving any slippage, yet apparently there must have been.

Even with no mileage, it’s been two years, I expect the shop isn’t going to warrantee it, but I try to call them anyway and they are out of business. I asked for recommendations on the local Mopar club forum on Facebook and got a couple responses. One of the guys can’t be found.

I called the other guy and told him I had a 42RH from a Dakota in a 68 Dart. Instantly he tells me that can’t be done. I asked him why and he said it’s a computer control transmission. I said no, it’s a 42RH, it’s hydraulically controlled the later 42RE is the computer control model.

He then says the overdrive is electrically controlled so there isn’t a way to control that. I said this is done all the time, the overdrive just needs 12 Volts engage/disengage and a simple switch can handle that. He then says besides, the Driveshaft is too long. I said that has already been handled by simply getting a shorter drive shaft, I have driven this car… You know what, never mind, it really doesn’t sound like you’re the person that can help me.



So, now to the question;

What specialized tools are required to do a rebuild myself.
I figure if I have to explain it to a transmission guy, that I can probably handle the task. I know I’ve previously seen tutorials, I just don’t remember where, so I guess its back to Google. And I guess its one more summer of not driving it, though I’ve gotten a teaser.
Thanks in advance for any info you might share,
Rod

EDIT: I just realized you're talking about the 42, not a 46 based unit. Forget the 727 references.

There are some very good videos that cover that exact transmission. There are also some really good upgrades using factory parts from motor home 727's such as 4 pinion planetary etc. There is a guy I know on forebodies and e-bodies.org putting one behind a 6.4 3rd gen who's done some of the upgrades on his. Might be worth a look.
 
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I almost finished a 727 based 46RE. Not that many special tools, and you can build part of them if you are handy. The main thing to be careful of is a small press and tool to compress the big spring in the OD unit.

On a side note Transgo makes a manual valve kit for those.

Here's one take on videos


Another take on teardown

 
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Front half of the trans is similar to 904. Back half is where you will need the special tools. Grab a fsm for 92 up truck and look at it. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO REMOVE SPRING, IN THE IVERDRIVE UNIT, WITHOUT SPECIAL TOOLS. IT IS UNDER 800 PLUS LBS OF TENSION. YOU COULD HURT YOURSELF. If the overdrive clutches are burnt up, the od unit WILL HAVE TO CIME APART. As said above, there are upgrades that can be incorporated into the rebuild. Also, there are rebuild od units on internet fairly reasonable.
 
Thank you for the replies so far,
@Cuda416 Do recall the E bodies guys name so I can look up his threads?
@67Dart273 any link to tools build?
@rbkt65 I suppose the O/D could be burnt up, Cope VB doesn't engage O/D electrically, you mechanically move the shifter, so I'm not sure how he's accomplishing that, but if it is just using the movement to activate a switch or solenoid, I suppose it could be wired backwards and turned on when it should be off. In only 3 miles I never got enough speed to the point of pulling the handle for O/D to notice if RPM went up instead of down.
I'm assuming MyMopar wouldn't have a manual for 92 Dakota, Know where I might find that, or would I be just as well off with an ATSG for that model?
 
Thank you for the replies so far,
@Cuda416 Do recall the E bodies guys name so I can look up his threads?
@67Dart273 any link to tools build?
@rbkt65 I suppose the O/D could be burnt up, Cope VB doesn't engage O/D electrically, you mechanically move the shifter, so I'm not sure how he's accomplishing that, but if it is just using the movement to activate a switch or solenoid, I suppose it could be wired backwards and turned on when it should be off. In only 3 miles I never got enough speed to the point of pulling the handle for O/D to notice if RPM went up instead of down.
I'm assuming MyMopar wouldn't have a manual for 92 Dakota, Know where I might find that, or would I be just as well off with an ATSG for that model?
yessir, RacerX is the user on forebodiesonly and e-bodies.org. Not sure how much he's updating on FEBO though.
 
i made 1 of the tools that measures which select washer u need. i will take a pic of it later and post it for you. also if you take the od completely apart, you will need to align the 2 gears in the rear of the unit. you could use the main trans output shaft but it wont allow you to assemble the snap ring.
 
Thank you for the replies so far,
@Cuda416 Do recall the E bodies guys name so I can look up his threads?
@67Dart273 any link to tools build?
@rbkt65 I suppose the O/D could be burnt up, Cope VB doesn't engage O/D electrically, you mechanically move the shifter, so I'm not sure how he's accomplishing that, but if it is just using the movement to activate a switch or solenoid, I suppose it could be wired backwards and turned on when it should be off. In only 3 miles I never got enough speed to the point of pulling the handle for O/D to notice if RPM went up instead of down.
I'm assuming MyMopar wouldn't have a manual for 92 Dakota, Know where I might find that, or would I be just as well off with an ATSG for that model?
Best advice I can give you is to watch that video series I posted. The only special tools I can remember are two or three snap ring pliers, and then the device to compress and release the OD spring. I got lucky. I bought 2 buckets of junk special tools, and one of them just happened to work well "as is" for the compressor
 
here are some pics for you to study. 1 is of the tool i made from plastic. the dimensions are on the paper. the others are tools used by mopar techs to rebuild/check clearances. a couple pics are from the factory the service manual. if you need anything else, just ask. last pic is the tool i made and the 6312 tool used in pic 4.

20230803_135643.jpg


20230803_135807.jpg


20230803_185653.jpg


20230803_190121.jpg


20230803_190126.jpg


20230803_190350.jpg
 
Yeah if the guy doesn't know the difference between an RH or RE series transmission, he shouldn't give any advice, let alone touch your car. lol
There are some places that sells a solenoid for the lock-up portion of the transmission.
A500 Lock-Up Overdrive Solenoid
Also, If I'm not mistaken I think it was @Abodybomber who rigged up a dual toggle switch for his auto 4 speed conversion 1 for OD and the other for Lock-up
 
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Patc offers a simple kit that will make the od shift real good. We have 2 of them in use and for us, it is way better than toggle switches. As it allows the trans to downshift naturally without having to remember to toggle the switches.
 
Good Morning,
Thank you all for taking the time for replies and photos. I'll have to put some thought into this, I know I have some uncomfortable family stuff to deal with coming up (in another state-you know, just to add to it all). I need to decide if I want to try & weave this into the mix, or try and find someone I trust & just get it done. I'd rather learn about it and do it like I did with the rest of the car, but every project has turned into multiple starts and stops and re-dos. I can also see this dragging out well into next year since our busy time of year is coming upon us at work.
I'll give an update and let yall know how it works out.
 
@67Dart273 , Thanks for posting those videos. So far I have the O/D section about 1/2 apart, I have to weld together a "bridge" to press the spring in the shop press.
first video walks you through it like "so easy, a caveman could do it"...but that guys tone almost puts me to sleep

Who can tell me this;
To upgrade the clutch pack in the O/D unit, do you order the o/d portion for a 46RH? All the rebuild sets I see are a complete kit for either/or. How do I go about ordering a "split" set ie; front half 42rh, o/d section for 46?
 
Od sections are supposed to be the same for gas, 42 and 46rh. Diesel is different. I used all the diesel stuff from a 4x4 od unit in my 46rh. The diesel od housing was cracked due to bad u joints and owner stupidity. Works great. More clutches and peace of mind for me
 
As far as special tools needed for the OD the only thing a person MIGHT need would be the depth gauge tool. However there are ways around that as well. As far as compressing the spring you can use a 3” PVC coupling and cut a slot in it to access the snap rings while it’s in a press (trust me I know I have first hand experience as I just rebuilt one about a month ago). You can also use the intermediate shaft as an alignment tool of the splines and use a piece of 3” PVC to compress the OD clutch hub and instal the snap ring.
 
If you don’t want to piece things together you can purchase this. It will allow the most amount of clutches to be installed in the direct drum (this pack is engaged in all gears except for OD) or you can piece it all together by getting the 48 direct drum, and stepped pressure plate for half the cost. The reaction plate is the same. If you want more clutches in the OD pack you can take the pressure plate out completely that is closest to the OD apply piston, the wavy snap ring, and install the 48re stepped pressure plate. Doing this the shift into OD will be more harsh but you should be able to get 6ish OD clutches in the pack.

IMG_1612.png
 
Just saw this post. I have 46RH in my 68 Dart. If you don't have one already, I will be selling this transmission crossmember I got from Cope (CRT) last year. It's made for A-body A518/46RH conversions. Although it's sold with the rubber mount and hardware, I'm just selling the crossmember. I can PM you with price and details if you'd like.

A518 crossmember 1.jpg


A518 crossmember 2.jpg
 
Well here it is a couple months later and I finally have a day to start looking at it.
The o/d clutches, o/d direct clutches, and direct clutches all look great. The forward clutches and end plates however, look to be damaged. How does that clutch pack get damaged yet none of the others?

IMG_1437.jpeg
 
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Well here it is a couple months later and I finally have a day to start looking at it.
The o/d clutches, o/d direct, clutches, and direct clutches all look great. The forward clutches and end plates however, look to be damaged. How does that clutch pack get damaged yet none of the others?

View attachment 1716148424

Someone likely tore a lip seal or broke a sealing ring on assembly.
Barring one of those I would think the line pressures are not what they should be.
 
Well, I had figured it was going to take some time to get this sorted. Working here & there between work & my dad’s problems I’ve made some progress and said I would update.
Since I had asked for a performance build but basically got a V6Dakota level freshen-up, I decided to dive in.
I went on the diesel forums and got the deep O/D drum @Turbosmblk mentioned above. I got Alto clutches & kolene steels from PATC. Great people to deal with. Alto is short on some stuff because of their OEM business, so PATC had to substitute Raybestos in the OD direct, but since I have 10 clutches vs 6, I should be ok.
I ordered a 5 disc front drum and associated pump to go with the 2-bushing drum, since my pump was for a single bushing drum.
Problem with that is the pump was only available with a “flats” drive pump to integrate with the TC. Heres the problem-as soon as I knew I was heading for a rebuild, I had ordered a new TC with slot (or lug) drive since thats what I had. I figured I’d just switch the “lug” pump rotor &stator into the new pump housing. Uh, no-go, the flats drive pump is slightly larger diameter so it leaves large gaps around the lug drive pump.
I cant say enough good about Precision of New Hampton. They were super nice to deal with when I first called to order it originally. When I called and explained what has transpired, they said they would credit me back and send me a flats drive converter (provided this one hadn’t been installed) Wish more companies were that stand-up, I really expected a hassle, a “restocking” fee (at minimum) or some piss-poor amount of credit.
I added billet servos, a wider semi rigid kickdown band, and hell, while I was there spending money, I went with a Cope multi-spring pack to replace the front clutch spring.
Since the wiring connection has spare wires (valve body manually selects OD instead of electrically) I added an electric transmission temperature gauge so I know what’s going on.
I’ll be boxing up the converter this weekend to send to PNH. Hopefully have some time to put everything together.
 
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thanks for laying all this out in a very informative manner.

i'm looking to make the same move down the line with a 42RH. while i don't think i'm going as full tilt with the diesel pieces in that i don't think i'll need that much beef, it's good to know that it's an option if i wanted to go whole hog.
 
I'm about to open up an a500 that was originally from a 91 318 Dakota to freshen up.
The rest of that truck is long long gone, it's metal probably recycled into a couple of Kia's now a days. This trans is being considered for a beefed /6 in a d150. Yes I have the means to put a SB trans behind a/6.

I am just finishing up a 46re out of a Durango first.
I already have the "master kit" (with clutches and steels) for the a500, now I'm looking for heavier duty bands and the billet servos as I find extra money (this is for a truck that I have apart in other ways so no hurry to get this trans done.
I hear of guys bragging about how great the 904 is, etc and how they can be "built up to take some serious power" as I have never had much luck with them in low-po, daily driver duty let alone a truck or HP application. But although I hear constantly on forums like this one how "great" they are and how they can be built up, somehow I'm not seeing as much available as for the 727/518 and what I am seeing appears to cost more.
The last a500 I did was in the 99 Dakota I used to have, it seems like back then things were more available. I put the billet accumulator and front servo into that one when I had that one apart. That was the extent of what I was wanting to do with that one to beef it up. Maybe stuff just isn't "as" available anymore like so many other parts?
Mainly looking for kevlar bands and a rear servo with the dual sealing rings like I put in the 46, only seeing billet disc with single sealing ring available for the lighter trans, though. Not the whole, beefed up servo "assembly" as I found for the heavier trans. The accumulator is the same between them and I'm able to see where to get the heavier, billet front servo as I did on that other one a few years ago.
 

I HAVE A WARNING ⚠️ about this particular set of these tools. Going to be long but I feel I must tell this in a thread where others may be doing the same thing as the OP.
There is a seller of them on eBay, same pic except the can koozie in the eBay ad is black, same logo. eBay price is around $220 and the seller is the same place as listed in the can koozie.
In googling the Miller tools number I came across an ad with that exact pic with the pink koozie. The Google listing says "MILLER TOOLS ALTERNATIVE" for $98.
I bought one last week. The website affiliated is "optimum dress". Out of Cali. When I first put my card in it got denied. Weird. Tried my debit. Denied. Double weird. I definitely have plenty to cover it. I put the debit card in again and it was accepted. I got an email from PayPal that said I paid some woman, not the company name. It didn't show up in my bank for a couple days.
I looked up my PayPal account and it shows "no transactions in the last 180 days" which was true until I bought this. I didn't know it was gonna be done as a PayPal transaction.
I tried calling the phone number associated with the website to ask and after like a "1/2 a ring" the ring started over, no gap between rings like usual when waiting for someone to pick up. Then rang normal another couple of rings then went to "mailbox 123zyz" (not the actual number I don't remember that)
I left a message about inquiring about something I bought. They called back and the phone was "dead"
Nobody spoke on that end. I haven't been able to contact them since.
I filed a claim with PayPal and they were able to find it by the transaction number I got in the email, but if I look at pp right now it still comes up "no transactions in 180days". They said they will investigate, the next morning I got a reply from pp saying the seller responded to them with a tracking number saying that it was delivered to "my town" (didn't specify address) the day before I reported it. I still don't have those tools and pp wants a week to "investigate"
I'm wondering if I somehow got a "shell" PayPal, somehow? I don't use PayPal much, I didn't know this would be a PayPal deal, but being I can't find it in my records other than the direct email I got as a "receipt"
And I thought all PP logos were blue? Ive gotten 3 emails.... The original receipt from the buy and 2 follow up emails from "PayPal" but the logos I'm getting in all the emails are red?
When I looked up my account everything there is blue letting though. IDK what is going on, I bought a 2nd item from them in the same transaction after going to their "website" but I think I got screwed out of roughly $104. I doubt I'll see the tools or my $104 again.
The ebay seller is from Atlantic City NJ. The website I found on Google is listed out of California. The tracking I was sent from "PayPal" says it was mailed from Largo FL. The receipt says the money went to somebody named Undrea Reed. Not to the company name.
 
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If a mod wants to move the post just above this one to somewhere more appropriate for such a "rip off" thread go ahead/ thought it would be ok in a thread related to a trans rebuild where these same tools were references as part of the process (and pic from the same ad on which I was duped, were posted by another participant in the thread besides) figured I'd try to stop someone else from getting the same screwing I have, on a similar venture
 
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