440 Fender Well headers ?

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A couple of J bars would help lot's if you tie them into the shock mount's as well as the firewall and rad support.
 
HemiDenny said:
the strenght of your unibody isn't as much as a issue as the performance of the headers...

from my ol' Direct Connection manual...equal length primaries, around 33" long for optimum performance

I had a set on my fenderwell headers on my first Duster (Black w/Missle scheme pictured below)....in 1976...tubes veried more than 12" in length and some were over 50" long...and couldn't run much bigger than a VW tire on front.....they sucked!!!
Click to expand...

that may be true on the 33" lenght but i have run almost every type of BB A-Body header. and went back to the fenderwells

the pro parts and tti's have so many and way to sharp of bends in my opinion.
by my butt-o-meter the engine liked the Headman's way better than the Proparts. and it runs cooler in traffice with the painted Headmans over the
ceramic Coated Pro-Parts

the other benifet in my opinion is spark plug changes are a breeze...
 
THEWHITEZOMBIE said:
Myself i wanted to cut it all out, in this pic i had just finished the cutting :-D no pics of the braces i made but i made some for the front and back of the towers. Still in the works of coming up with a main tube brace idea ones the car comes out of storage that its been in for 4.5 years now:sad8:
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I cut mine out all the way too. Mines going to be a drag car and I am going to run snout bars any way so I thought why not. Little less weight never hurt.
 
HemiDenny said:
THEWHITEZOMBIE....however...with what you removed....you better be putting some re-enfocement in there. Preferably some forward down tubes attached to the inner cage I did not notice/see

unless you are in my class/division....."coffee getter"
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Oopsy...Sorry...didn't read your text about "not being done yet"....I guess I'm more of a picture person than a reader person....but in my defense...they are some really good pictures....just sayn'
 
I butchered my Hooker fenderwells so that I can turn the wheels. Now, it only has a slight rub at full lock on both sides. I repositioned 6 of the 8 tubes.
When I bought the car, I couldn't even pull it into my driveway without severe contact.
Lotta work but worth it.

George
 
man that motor looks good. what is the PN for that oil pan and do you know if it will work with stock steering/k-frame. ?
 
HemiDenny said:
Oopsy...Sorry...didn't read your text about "not being done yet"....I guess I'm more of a picture person than a reader person....but in my defense...they are some really good pictures....just sayn'
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No worries man haha i have all the tube to start the front bars in the back seat too:banghead:
 
George R said:
I butchered my Hooker fenderwells so that I can turn the wheels. Now, it only has a slight rub at full lock on both sides. I repositioned 6 of the 8 tubes.
When I bought the car, I couldn't even pull it into my driveway without severe contact.
Lotta work but worth it.

George
Click to expand...

What size tires are you running that you were having clearance issues?
 
Anyone run the Herman hustler fenderwell headers? I'm thinking
About selling my proparts that I just coated ( beautiful) and
Getting the hedmans. I want better plug access. I think
The tires hitting the tubes is better than hookers..?
 
74slnt6 said:
i have schumacher engine swap tri y headers in my 440 duster now but im looking at going for a bigger diameter tube. i dont want tti's, so i wanna go with Hooker Super Comp 2 Inch fender wells. but i have a few questions...

1. can i just cut the inner fender where the headers will exit and still have enough strength there ? ( i remember seeing a 440 duster at the mopar nats that had no inner fenders and no roll cage bar bar support si im thinking this would be okay )

2. And will the starter be trapped ?

Pictures will be appreciated

heres the headers http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HOK-5215HKR/
Click to expand...
Will u see ur tri-ys thanks
 
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74slnt6 said:
i have schumacher engine swap tri y headers in my 440 duster now but im looking at going for a bigger diameter tube. i dont want tti's, so i wanna go with Hooker Super Comp 2 Inch fender wells. but i have a few questions...

1. can i just cut the inner fender where the headers will exit and still have enough strength there ? ( i remember seeing a 440 duster at the mopar nats that had no inner fenders and no roll cage bar bar support si im thinking this would be okay )

2. And will the starter be trapped ?

Pictures will be appreciated

heres the headers http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HOK-5215HKR/
Click to expand...

I have a used set of those headers that I'll sell for cheap. They are a little rusty and have some dings as you would expect after a few years in the wheel wells. If nothing else they could be used for set up work.
 
AndyF said:
I have a used set of those headers that I'll sell for cheap. They are a little rusty and have some dings as you would expect after a few years in the wheel wells. If nothing else they could be used for set up work.
Click to expand...
Andy please let me know how much I could really use them for my son I don't care if there damaged or anything thanks
 
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I'm using a set of Hedman Husler 75161 64 dart with RB 493. They fit the body well one tube rubbed at full turn with stock front end. So I put a straight axle under the car. But I talked to HDK about one of is front ends and he said he would build it. I like my cars to sit a little on the hi side
 
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