440 Overheating 230 degrees

[standup303]

Hey all, been dealing with an overheating issue on my 69 Dart. I’ll go out for a drive even in 70 degree weather the car will hit 220 about 10 minutes into the drive and then I’ll pull over and shut it down to let it cool. Nice slow driving, not a ton of stop lights.

Pro flow 26” slim fit radiator with dual electric fans that came with the car
440 source high flow pump, housing, and 180 degree stat
Had the block hot tanked and shot peened, rinsed and blew out all passages very well before assembly.

440-new build only a few hundred miles on it.
9.4:1 compression
530/530 lift 235/243 duration 103 CL hyd roller cam
452 heads
850cfm double pumper I have not dialed yet
At 21 initial 32 total-no vac advance
Cars running good just overheats

I want to get a dyno tune but don’t want to take it in until I figure this out. Unless it’s a timing issue.

Couple photos, had just shut the car off from it reading 230 at the stat soon as I got home from a drive. Stat is brand new, I do question it though after hitting different areas of the engine with the temp gun.

Pic of #1 plug.

 

[standup303]

Couple pics of my rad/fan setup. Fans do work and come on, I actually set them to come on at 180 which they did and did not help on today’s drive.

 

[Inertia]

What are the temps of the top and bottom rad hose fittings. Not the hoses, tia

Rad needs to shed 50*+ .

 

[Inertia]

That's a very interesting fan shroud assembly, thru the decades we've seen some very, very creative shrouds, true craftsmanship, but they often end up a frisbee across the yard replaced with a clutch fan .
Might do a "search" of "overheat" to shortcut this a little.
The threads can exceed 130ish post as a norm.
Usually ends up the same.
Good luck, cheers

 

[standup303]

What are the temps of the top and bottom rad hose fittings. Not the hoses, tia

Rad needs to shed 50*+ .

Thanks I’ll check those later today.

That's a very interesting fan shroud assembly, thru the decades we've seen some very, very creative shrouds, true craftsmanship, but they often end up a frisbee across the yard replaced with a clutch fan .
Might do a "search" of "overheat" to shortcut this a little.
The threads can exceed 130ish post as a norm.
Usually ends up the same.
Good luck, cheers

Appreciate it

 

[1WildRT]

Couple thoughts....While 230 is worth being concerned about modern cars don't even turn on the first fan until 220+ degrees...

I can't see your fan well enough to make any assessment but a lot of fans block more are than they actually move... Have a look at a Delta Pag fan... Very minimal blockage & moves a lot of air

16" Brushless Fan Kit

Not saying it will help with your engine but I have an engine that was always running warmer that I like, till I added more timing. it runs at 35 degrees advance all the time & runs at 180 degrees..

 

[RustyRatRod]

Does it ever cool down? If so, when?

 

[standup303]

Does it ever cool down? If so, when?

If I’m off the gas while moving I’ll see a little drop, like coasting down a hill.

 

[Dana67Dart]

Just my 2 cents.

No particular order

Aluminum radiator not sized right

Airflow blocked by shroud and electric fan

Ring gap too tight

Timing not set right.

New rebuilt engine tend to run hotter while they are braking in


Any car should be able to drive at 35 mph and above without a fan. If it overheats at 35 and above that typically indicates a water flow issue.

If it won't idle without the temp stabilizing at around 10 deg above thermostat temp that is more likely an airflow issue.

This assumed all other things are working properly.

 

[MV8]

You might check that the gauge is accurate first. Use a 1k ohm or less potentiometer (about $5 on amazon and basically an old school radio volume control) between ground and the gauge. Turn the knob until it shows 180 then remove the pot and check the resistance value. Heat a pot of water to a steady 180f, put in the temp sensor for 30 seconds, then take it out and measure the resistance. It should be about the same as the pot.

The slots in the shroud, gaps, and openings in the radiator core support are all working against the fan. The fans should have information about watts and maybe amps on the motor. Few aftermarket fans are any good.

 

[413]

Nobody has mentioned a lean air fuel mixture, those will run hot like a cutting torch.

That water pump pulley is quite small diameter. Just an observation pointed out. What is the diameter of the crank pulley?

 

[dadsbee]

Does the cap puke?

 

[fishmens67]

440 source

Check the housing, some of the Chinese housings have been known to have smaller restrictive internal passages.

 

[standup303]

Does the cap puke?

Negative

 

[dadsbee]

Negative

So when you see this 220/230.. is it a calibrated gauge or the OE dash? INFRed temps are all fine..

 

[standup303]

So when you see this 220/230.. is it a calibrated gauge or the OE dash? INFRed temps are all fine..

It’s on an aftermarket dash gauge

 

[dadsbee]

It’s on an aftermarket dash gauge

Thanks.. did you stick the sender in boiling water... 212F... to confirm it's accurate?

 

[1WildRT]

Thanks.. did you stick the sender in boiling water... 212F... to confirm it's accurate?

Funny how all the experienced guys hold aftermarket parts as suspect... Almost like we've seen things before...

 

[abodyjoe]

looks like under drive pulleys. i question the radiator and really question that fan set up.

 

[dadsbee]

Na... I have zero use for electric fans and serps... but looking past that, his IFR's are all absolutely fine. Verify the aftermarket sender / gauge and get back to us.

 

[RustyRatRod]

If I’m off the gas while moving I’ll see a little drop, like coasting down a hill.

What does it do coming to a stop?

 

[standup303]

Thanks.. did you stick the sender in boiling water... 212F... to confirm it's accurate?

I did not.

 

[standup303]

What does it do coming to a stop?

Temp keeps climbing

 

[standup303]

Na... I have zero use for electric fans and serps... but looking past that, his IFR's are all absolutely fine. Verify the aftermarket sender / gauge and get back to us.

Thanks I’ll check it this week

 

[Dana67Dart]

BTW.

IR temp guns are not very accurate when used on reflective surfaces.

Also the closer to the sender the better, and try to get the brass of the sender.

What part of CO are you in. I'm in Fort Collins and I have a dual temp pickup that can be attached to the in and out of your radiator to check the delta T. It's completely externally attached.

I checked mine and got the elusive 50 deg delta.