440 source stroker kits

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dukeboy440

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Anyone running one? just curious as to the quality
 
Im interested in this as well.
I know a few guys using there stuff with no issues. Only thing they do tell me is dont use there pistons. The reason being, 440 source wont tell you who makes them or where they are from. At least that is what I am told. Anyway, lets see who has some info ;)
 
Im interested in this as well.
I know a few guys using there stuff with no issues. Only thing they do tell me is dont use there pistons. The reason being, 440 source wont tell you who makes them or where they are from. At least that is what I am told. Anyway, lets see who has some info ;)

I'd be building a low compression stroker to run on pump gas anyway, if I decide to go that route. Can't decide if I want to stroke it or not. I need new rods, pistons and crank so by the time I buy all that, it'd cost me about the same to stroke it....

And upon further research, Eagle kits cost roughly the same as the 440 source kits now and are American made, interesting :cheers:
 
Yes..very true!
440 Source is likely China made thus the reason for no info on the pistons. I looked at there stuff because much like you I dont want to build a huge killer motor.
American/ Noth American (me being Canadian) does matter to me as well!
 
And upon further research, Eagle kits cost roughly the same as the 440 source kits now and are American made, interesting

you sure? i thought their lower end kits are made in china like the others.. check to make sure..
 
I seen the 440 source rods and they were beautiful top notch quality and im sure the eagle kits are made in china and machined in Tennessee thus made in America they have lots of little tricks.
 
I had a 440 Source rotating kit. It ws a 520 I got with some other parts on RJ. The pistons are KB hypereutectic. The rods looked like beautoiful parts and has ARP 2000 bolts. The crank was a different story. One rod throw didn't have the hole that runs through the center drilled all the way through and looked to be non-parallel with the rod bearing C/L. Maybe they are supposed to be that way.. The Eagle stuff I bot was better looking to me.
 
Any rotating assembly must be checked and sometime corrections must be made. With the 4.25 stroke crank the throw is so long the oil holes must be drilled from two directions so they intersect. If drilled straight through with one hole the oil hole will penetrate the side of the crank.

So much crap is foisted on people through these forums. The 440 Source pistons I've received are ICON buy United Engine and Machine (Keith Black)
 
So the KB marking on the 440 Source pistons is a cheap version?

I just didn't like the way that hole through the rod throw was not parallel to the throw C/L and didn't go all the way through like the other 3 did.
 
So the KB marking on the 440 Source pistons is a cheap version?

I just didn't like the way that hole through the rod throw was not parallel to the throw C/L and didn't go all the way through like the other 3 did.

Both recent sets were ICON 2618 forged. If you got hypereutectic, somebody switched pistons. 440 Source has sold me forged pistons everytime. Their house 2618 forged (now ICON) or 2618 forged Ross pistons.
 
The 440 source pistons are Icon pistons. I have the 512 stroker in my race car. My machine shop said the crank looked like a Scat crank. I don't know what the rods are. But I can tell you the pistons are Icon cause my motor threw #2 rod out the side of the block. I ended up buying 1 piston from United Machine Co. to replace the one that got tore up. I'm still using the same crank and 7 other pistons with about 70 runs on the new motor. I replaced all my 440 source rods due to rod failure with 1000 hp rods from Manley.
 
we have a 540, built 2008
14-1comp
E-85

thinking about pulling it from the satellite
put it and trans into a dart

engine set back 12", been alot of fun
for a "More Door" lol

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Anyone running one? just curious as to the quality

I'd be building a low compression stroker to run on pump gas anyway, if I decide to go that route. Can't decide if I want to stroke it or not. I need new rods, pistons and crank so by the time I buy all that, it'd cost me about the same to stroke it....

And upon further research, Eagle kits cost roughly the same as the 440 source kits now and are American made, interesting :cheers:

I seen the 440 source rods and they were beautiful top notch quality and im sure the eagle kits are made in china and machined in Tennessee thus made in America they have lots of little tricks.

I am building 2 512's at the moment, one with 440 Source parts. Rods are nice pieces, crank is decent, looks to me exactly like Eagle brand, ARP 8740 bolts, Icon 2618 forgings. Definitely not Scat, as they only make a 4.250 with Hemi 8 bolt flange. Also, cranks and rods are cast overseas in China, none of the budget cranks and rods are made in the USA, some are just finished machined here. Expect to size the rods and pistons for the pins, and possibly resize the big end of the rods.
I will say the Stealth heads are a nice casting, very clean and decent shape, and flow as claimed. The valve job is just ok but for $1k its a pretty good deal.

I had a 440 Source rotating kit. It ws a 520 I got with some other parts on RJ. The pistons are KB hypereutectic. The rods looked like beautoiful parts and has ARP 2000 bolts. The crank was a different story. One rod throw didn't have the hole that runs through the center drilled all the way through and looked to be non-parallel with the rod bearing C/L. Maybe they are supposed to be that way.. The Eagle stuff I bot was better looking to me.

The rod lightening holes your referring to do not run parallel to the crank centerline, they are drilled at an angle for a reason and almost never go all the way thru.
 
I've built 3 505s, a 496, and 2 451s with 440Source product. Source's pistons used to be source numbered by Source but made by KB. I think the Icon line evolved in part from the relationship with Source and now they just say Icon. They are a good value. The cranks are hit or miss, but always "within factory specs". I have not had any that didn't have some taper. Some very little, some at the high end of the allowable - and that can be different journals on the same crank. They are also not polished to as smooth a surface as some others. Indexing and stroke have never been any better or worse than anything else available. I have never had to turn one to fix any issues but know others that have. It's up to your builder and his understanding of the intended use. The rods are good pieces but the last set I had still shipped with oil on the threads - not the right ARP lube. When the right lube and ARP torque values are used, the big ends distort. The pin ends are never the right size and emery cloth is not the way to properly address that. I always add the cost for resizing both ends in my estimates when using Source rods. I do not trust their balancing so I pay my shop to do it to my satisfaction. Stealth heads are good value but the E-Street RPMs would probably be a better choice at this point. I replace the springs, seals, retainers and locks on any Stealths I run, and they get a good valve job and deburring of the chambers, spark plug boss in the chamber, and rocker stands. That valve job is the same as any aftermarket head. The hardware on the Edelbrocks is better and I routinely re-use thier stuff with my own spec springs.
 
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