440 source

-
dukeboy_318 said:
Planning out my 440 build, pretty much decided on aluminum heads. Which leads me to some questions. the 440 source heads are almost 600 bucks cheaper than the Eddy heads and almost a grand less than Indy EZs. Now I'm a firm believer in getting what you pay for, however, I can't ignore 440 source at that much savings.

When 440 source first came out with their heads a few years back, there was a lot of mixed reviews of poor quality. I've searched on several forums, as well as google. Most reviews I've found are very dated. So I'm wondering if anyone is currently running a set of 440 Stealth heads, what you've experienced and if you'd recommend the heads? Also, what combo are you running?
Click to expand...

If you want to know objective data or unbiased data about what cylinder heads to run, call Jim LaRoy of LaRoy racing engines. Jim is a professional engine builder, has flow data on most cylinder heads including the Stealth head and he can help guide you on your 440 build. Jim has a flow bench, super flow 901 dynamometer and other tools for doing great engine builds. Jim's number is (208) 879-2969. Just tell him Charlie sent you.
Merry Christmas
 
dukeboy_318 said:
Thanks man. So to clarify, even the Eddy's or Indy's would need to be checked out and touched up possibly? What's a typical prep like you describe run for a pair?
Click to expand...

Depending upon the shape of the heads, $350-$500, typically $400.
 
GTX MATT said:
Yes, get rid of the pro comp rockers. Especially if you are running the 484 PurpleShaft, just use stock rockers.

I put source heads on my 440. They seem to have some hand clean up done to the bowls after machining now, and from a few reports seem to flow a little bit more than a few years back. My heads came with comp 7 degree locks and retainers, and the springs are pretty good for your typical performance hydraulic. I am running double springs so I went to 10 degree locks and retainers. Heads looked good, one thing I will say though is I did find aluminum shavings in my valve guides when I took them apart. A quick hand lap showed that the valve job looked good.
Click to expand...
I'm still fairly new to Mopar but so far I've diassembled three stock big blocks. Two 440s and one 400 and all three of them had non adjustable stamped steel rockers. To me they looked to be suitable for only a stock hyd cam, low rpm application. I'm wondering are there some stock rockers that are adjustable? I'm asking because I know the aluminum Crane rockers I have are not recomended for extended street use. I'm going to upgrade at some point to some type of rockers that can hold up to extended street use and drag racing. Cost is an issue for me so the pro comps being stainless look good on paper. Probly wind up plunking down more for some domestic SS pieces.
 
Old Man Mopar said:
Yes, elaborate please. Also curious on why not to use titanium retainers.

Thanks
Click to expand...
Per Titanium retains: My first build I used Titanium retainers, and broke one after about 30 passes. I caught it just as I was shuting off the engine in the staging lanes.It blew the center out.
It dropped the valve, but not enough to hurt it, so I pulled the intake cleaned everything up,flushed the engine and changed all the retainers/keepers.I found another that was ready to break.
With that said, I had contacted Mussel Motors whom I bought most my stuff from (not retainers) they told me not to run Titanium because they are too hard and brittle, so they tend to break, which is what happened.Maybe because most are import, I don't know.
I switched to Comp. steel retainers/10 degree keepers, never had another issue.1000+ passes, engine in 3 different cars. I also change retainers and keepers every engine freshen just to be safe.Cheap insurance.
 
Doosterfy said:
I'm still fairly new to Mopar but so far I've diassembled three stock big blocks. Two 440s and one 400 and all three of them had non adjustable stamped steel rockers. To me they looked to be suitable for only a stock hyd cam, low rpm application. I'm wondering are there some stock rockers that are adjustable? I'm asking because I know the aluminum Crane rockers I have are not recomended for extended street use. I'm going to upgrade at some point to some type of rockers that can hold up to extended street use and drag racing. Cost is an issue for me so the pro comps being stainless look good on paper. Probly wind up plunking down more for some domestic SS pieces.
Click to expand...

There are steel adjustable rockers.Crane made them. I ran them they work good. Not sure where to find them, just google it.
 

Attachments

  • pics 019.jpg
    49.7 KB · Views: 407
dusterdragracer said:
My first build I used Titanium retainers, and broke one after about 30 passes.
Click to expand...
Good. I plan to run the Comp steel pieces. Thanks.

Still waiting to hear the judgement on the Pro-Comp stainless roller rockers.

If these are deemed unacceptable, PRW stainless would be my next choice.
 
I dont see what the issue is over cranes or pro comp roller rockers I've known guys that have run them with all types of cams hyd and solids and not had a problem even at up to 620 lift cams,with the proper length pushtubes and shims or a little grinding here and there for clearance issues, or the iron ones also...which are practically bulletproof...I have heard some people say not to run themabove a certain lift, but whats the proof or reasoning when you have seen them work and live,I could be wrong..aint saying thats what I'm going to do but have seen it several times in past...just curious also as to why not to or to...
 
rbdart said:
I dont see what the issue is over cranes or pro comp roller rockers I've known guys that have run them with all types of cams hyd and solids and not had a problem even at up to 620 lift cams,with the proper length pushtubes and shims or a little grinding here and there for clearance issues, or the iron ones also...which are practically bulletproof...I have heard some people say not to run themabove a certain lift, but whats the proof or reasoning when you have seen them work and live,I could be wrong..aint saying thats what I'm going to do but have seen it several times in past...just curious also as to why not to or to...
Click to expand...
My Crane rockers are aluminum. What I've read is that they work great but are not intended for extended use. They wind up breaking and there is no way of knowing when they're going to fail. They're fairly inexpensive so it's possible to replace them periocically but I'd much rather go with a high quality stainless steel rocker that will last alot longer and not worry about having one break while out on a cruise miles from home. Aluminum rockers are intended for drag racing.
 
Doosterfy said:
My Crane rockers are aluminum. What I've read is that they work great but are not intended for extended use. They wind up breaking and there is no way of knowing when they're going to fail. They're fairly inexpensive so it's possible to replace them periocically but I'd much rather go with a high quality stainless steel rocker that will last alot longer and not worry about having one break while out on a cruise miles from home. Aluminum rockers are intended for drag racing.
Click to expand...

Why not run the Crane steel ones, like he said, they are bulit proof?
I ran Hughes aluminum 1.6 rockers with my 620 Ultradyne solid cam (yes, had to cut larger pushrod holes, no shims on shafts), 1000+ passes, no issues, so I don't know why there would be an issue on the street.
They are all cheapo imports anyway.
 
dusterdragracer said:
Why not run the Crane steel ones, like he said, they are bulit proof?
I ran Hughes aluminum 1.6 rockers with my 620 Ultradyne solid cam (yes, had to cut larger pushrod holes, no shims on shafts), 1000+ passes, no issues, so I don't know why there would be an issue on the street.
They are all cheapo imports anyway.
Click to expand...

hey D D, I`m wondering why a guy couldn`t use a heavier walled 5/16 push rod w/ the hughs rocker on a set of edelbrock victor- procomp type heads. I`m currently waiting on shims from hughs, to finish settin up the rocker arms. pushrods will be next------------any thots, or ever hear of this being done?------------bob :coffee2:
 
famous bob said:
hey D D, I`m wondering why a guy couldn`t use a heavier walled 5/16 push rod w/ the hughs rocker on a set of edelbrock victor- procomp type heads. I`m currently waiting on shims from hughs, to finish settin up the rocker arms. pushrods will be next------------any thots, or ever hear of this being done?------------bob :coffee2:
Click to expand...
Yes, I ran the Hughes heavier push rods. I bent a couple of hughes standard ones after 5 passes, messed up a rocker. pitched a lifter out of the bore, lost oil pressure at the finish line.
Ordered their heavier 5/16th funny car push rods, pulled the heads,enlargered the push rod holes, and never looked back.
May have been the push rods touching the heads, may have just been too weak.will never know
 
dusterdragracer said:
Why not run the Crane steel ones, like he said, they are bulit proof?
I ran Hughes aluminum 1.6 rockers with my 620 Ultradyne solid cam (yes, had to cut larger pushrod holes, no shims on shafts), 1000+ passes, no issues, so I don't know why there would be an issue on the street.
They are all cheapo imports anyway.
Click to expand...
I guess we hi-jacked this thread. We're onto rocker arms. I'm not a valvetrain expert but I'll speculate that the duty cycle of aluminum in a high stress application like rocker arms, is probly lower than steel or stainless steel. More speculation; alum rockers probly hold up well in drag engines because they don't run for extended periods of time like a street or roundy round engine. If any experts read this thread, please do enlighten us. Maybe I'm more paranoid about my aluminum rockers failing than I need to be.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top