440 wont start when hot.

-
If your still not getting enough fuel pressure then your problem is with the fuel, not the electronics. Insulate the fuel line and toss a small insulator type gasket/spacer under the carb and be done with it.
 
sbh126 said:
I haven't insulated it yet. I guess I was hoping moving it off the headers would be enough. I'm about to make a summitracing order so I'll go ahead and get some.

Orange box? What exactly are you refering to?

I dont know what my timing is set at yet. I just put it where it would run. I can either get it to run good but kicks back during startup or starts up easy and runs like hell. (and not in a good way) lol. I have it set right in the middle. What is a good number to have my initial set at?
Click to expand...


It is starting to sound like you have more problems than you are aware of. Vacuum leaks, timing, maybe even firing order. Did you build the motor? Maybe the cam is in wrong. Maybe you need to play with the jets?
 
sbh126 said:
Well I drove my Duster to get an alignment today. When I got to the alignment place I was at 190 degrees snd still had 8 lbs of fuel. double what I had before. But when I got home I decided to double check the gaugen again and it was back to zero. So its better than it was but not quite there yet. Should I invest is a fluid cooler and run my fuel through it? or would that help?
Click to expand...

When the gauge was reading zero was the engine running? You need to attack one issue at a time, don't jump all over the place before you correct or find out why you have zero fuel pressure (bad gauge?)
 
I'm sure the gauge is forking because it works fine when the engine is cool. And yes the motor was running on 0 fuel pressure.


I had the short block assembled by my machinist. He is supposed to be the best in the area.

I just ordered a fuel cooler and some line insulation. I didn't get the carb insulator yet. I need to get some playdough and measure how thick I can go. It's pretty tight in there and I'd hate to jam the air cleaner wingnut through my hood. lol. Hopefully this will fix the problem.

Is it possible my fuel pump could be going out? It is the original from the newyorker I pulled the motor from. But like I said I do get about 8 psi at startup. Is this a similar number to what you other bigblock guys have?
 
hi there, I had similar issues with timming. I asked guys at the Hemi shoot out drag race... seems like 9 out of 10 agree that 36 degrees total timming is the money. I did this on my 340 dart and it runs so much better.
 
also I got rid of the vacuum advance distributor and went with a mechanical one.. The racers said to lock the advance out... so there is no advance or movement of springs or weights, then set at 36 degrees.... the difference is night and day!!! very good tip I think!!
 
SBH - Are you sure the filters are not clogging? I just had a similar issue with mine and the filters had a lot of garbage in them. I have filter back at the tank and filter forward of the pump. The one back at the tank had a small piece of track bag in it and when I would drive the pressure would move all around. Cleaned and replaced these and have constant pressure now. Just a thought.

As for the pump - there about $20 to replace, could be culprit but doubtful.

If you have a fluid filled gauge and its in the compartment it will not be accurate, heat makes them inconsistent

36* max at 28 to 3K like the others say is what I run as well for a rule of thumb, like to lock them out too

and 8 is high in my opinion, I run between 5.5 and 6.5, 6 being ideal unless I'm running N02
 
Did you check your reluctor gap in the distributor before installing it. I had one that was at .030 when it should have been .007". Just because it's new doesn't mean that they set it up right.
 
Most chronic, modern, hot start problems are fuel related.

Most electrical problems get worse, or then it quits completely, as in, a coil going bad.

Check the spark when cold, "critically," that is, take a real good look at the spark. Buy a store spark tester. I bought a Lisle for 8? bucks Next time it's hot, and won't fire, check the spark.


Best thing I did for my (SB) car before I went EFI was to

change to rear mount electric pump

installed an isolator spacer under the carb. O'Reallys actually carry them

Installed a vapor return system. In my 67, this requires running a separate return line and installing a fitting into the tank. Wix 33040/41, (5/16 and 3/8) filters have a built in 1/4" return orifice
 
BIG-B-Barracuda said:
i am having the same exact issue cant figure it out.
Click to expand...

What have you done / found so far?

FIRST get it hot and "troubled" and use a spark gap to see if you have a good hot start cranking. USE THE KEY to do this, rather than jumpering the relay.

If spark is OK, get busy

Best thing I did before going to EFI is

Build a return system in my case, used a 33040 or 33041 Wix filter which has a built in return orifice. You can also do this with a return type regulator.

Use a good carb heat isolator / spacer

Use a rear mount electric pump and pay attention to line routing. If in doubt add ceramic insulation / sleeving or even construct heat shields near exhaust, etc
 
67Dart273 said:
What have you done / found so far?

FIRST get it hot and "troubled" and use a spark gap to see if you have a good hot start cranking. USE THE KEY to do this, rather than jumpering the relay.

If spark is OK, get busy

Best thing I did before going to EFI is

Build a return system in my case, used a 33040 or 33041 Wix filter which has a built in return orifice. You can also do this with a return type regulator.

Use a good carb heat isolator / spacer

Use a rear mount electric pump and pay attention to line routing. If in doubt add ceramic insulation / sleeving or even construct heat shields near exhaust, etc
Click to expand...


you have a picture of your wix filter set up. i wanna get an idea of the set up. (your engine bay as well)

i will update you guys when i get home. thanks
 
I had 2 crap fuel pressure gauges that caused me to spend LOTS of money trying to figure out zero fuel pressure when hot. Is gauge under the hood? I figured it out by starting car and heating gauge with blow dryer, sure enough the hotter it got the less pressure there was. I looked else where for my problem.
 
Vapor lock x whatever.

A number of people with /6 have had this problem because the fuel line runs close to the water outlet and the exhaust of the #1 cylinder. The two solutions I have seen work are to re-route the fuel line for at least more stand-ff from the heat sources, the other is to put heat sinks on the fuel line. Use smooth metal clamps as I've seen some vehicles with clothes pins on them. lol
 
HMM, you might have something there

i recently switch out my out date phenolic spacer out of my carburetor this thing was 32BC

it looked like an old wet stack of papers, any ways i switched it out with a 1 inch aluminum spacer im thinking this is producing and transferring too much heat? gas boil?

what do you guys think. before i switched it out it turned off on me twice in a similar fasion but months apart (daily driver) now its often as soon as it heats up. maybe 5 miles drive time.

combination of heat and something else is what i think.

would a plastic spacer work just as good a phenolic card board/wood looking spacer?

i am definitely getting rid of this aluminum one.


1968 barracuda with a 440 - engine is big takes up all engine bay. transfers heat for sure.
 
A plastic or phenolic spacer would be better than an aluminum or wood one. The aluminum one, IMO would conduct some heat towards the carburetor. I have difficulty with the idea of a highly combustible fuel/air mixture whizzing past a wooden block is a good idea. They do work, but I stay away from them.
 
I REPLACED -

coil
spark plug wires
pick up coil
Reluctor
ballast
starter relay
positive starter pick up wire
Ignition control module
and the carburetor base with one the doesn't transfer as much heat/

cars been working fine. THE SUSPECT WAS THE (ICM)
 
the 1st question should be........... is there spark when its hot and wont start.......eliminate electrical...
id say vapor lock also is the spark is there, sometimes, depending on the intake and if it utilizes the heat riser.... you need to also use a phenolic spacer under the carb to keep the fuel from boiling away in the carb... i believe thats for the carter/edelbrock barbs..
 
tarvin890 said:
the 1st question should be........... is there spark when its hot and wont start.......eliminate electrical...
id say vapor lock also is the spark is there, sometimes, depending on the intake and if it utilizes the heat riser.... you need to also use a phenolic spacer under the carb to keep the fuel from boiling away in the carb... i believe thats for the carter/edelbrock barbs..
Click to expand...

well also *
:coffee2: i had recently replaced the fuel pump and it had a 6 inch piece of metal tubing that was too close to the exhaust so i loosened that up and put it as far away from it and tightened her back up.
 
i also put one of those DEI reflective sleeve over my line that goes from carb down the front of the block..looks nice and works well insulate and isolate....
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top