451 low deck TTI 2" Header fitment QUESTION

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partsmonsta

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Wanna go with a 451 low deck motor for my NSS Dart.
I have always used 440 RB in the Dart, but could use some extra room in the engine dept, plus the low deck motor is lighter, which means a FREE HORSEPOWER.
But I am concerned with my TTI Headers fitting. They are really tight to the side of the engine block. I am concerned that they may hit the 451 low deck.
Local engine Guru suggested I make some 3/8 inch spacers IF they hit.
  • DOES ANYBODY MANUFACTURE THESE SPACERS?
  • AM I BEING OVERLY CONCERNED ABOUT FITMENT, WILL THE 2" TTIs FIT THE LOW DECK BLOCK ALSO?

dart gts brad 15.jpg
 
Hey be nice to me. I was telling people the other day you were a stand up guy on this form site.
 
Pm member ProSport on here. He had a dart sport and ran the set up You are talking about. It’s been a long time but I think he ended up switching to the MAD DOG brand of header.
 
I have an older 2" set on my 69 dart with 451. I had to do a lot
Of bangin to get them to work, but they might be a different header. I can't bring myself to spend 900$ on a new set.
 
I have an older 2" set on my 69 dart with 451. I had to do a lot
Of bangin to get them to work, but they might be a different header. I can't bring myself to spend 900$ on a new set.
I to, have the old CPPA 2" version. And I had to bang on them to get them to fit, as far as the suspension.
Do they hit the side of the block, just under the cylinder head?
 
I had Pro-Parts semi's and they hit the B pan rail, had to clearance them. They also didnt fit with ARP head studs...
 
honestly I bought these headers second hand, they didn't fit for the last guy or 2. Maybe they aren't even a body... Driver side was a mess. Honestly I don't see how they could have fit an rb. I had to move 2 tubes to clear starter and steering column. Had major clearance issues at the pitman arm. Passenger only needed one ding at the bellhousing and block.
 
honestly I bought these headers second hand, they didn't fit for the last guy or 2. Maybe they aren't even a body... Driver side was a mess. Honestly I don't see how they could have fit an rb. I had to move 2 tubes to clear starter and steering column. Had major clearance issues at the pitman arm. Passenger only needed one ding at the bellhousing and block.
Yea, not A Body, the starter clears fine, provided you use the mini starter. Yes, the suspension clearance pinging is major, closing off one of tubes a TON just to clear.
Funny thing is, they tell you in the original instructions specifically NOT to use the Denso Mini Starter. And if your starter Craps out, you have to pull the trans back to get a new starter in. Most people make the mistake of lifting the engine and remove the header all the way. Nightmare. I'm hoping the 451 will provide some xtra space for new access tricks.
CCCP doesnt tell you that you had to ping the **** outta them to get them to fit, which really ticked me off. But they were the only headers available at the time. I wonder if the new 2+ A Body 440 TTIs fit any better.
 
You didn't say what cylinder head you are running but I will assume something with stock exhaust port location, based on NSS rules of stock appearing head. I put my 400 low deck with stock location exhaust ports (MP cast iron Stage V heads) into my 75 Dart. The left side of my 2" TTI hedders had one pipe hitting the pitman arm. I cut out that section and moved it up an inch to clear. Your pitman arm may be different, as mine pointed down into the center link, if I recall. As for the block itself, there was no major interference or contact at all, but one minor spot on one side where one pipe rubbed on the lip of the oil pan rail. Bent the pan rail to clear.
 
You didn't say what cylinder head you are running but I will assume something with stock exhaust port location, based on NSS rules of stock appearing head. I put my 400 low deck with stock location exhaust ports (MP cast iron Stage V heads) into my 75 Dart. The left side of my 2" TTI hedders had one pipe hitting the pitman arm. I cut out that section and moved it up an inch to clear. Your pitman arm may be different, as mine pointed down into the center link, if I recall. As for the block itself, there was no major interference or contact at all, but one minor spot on one side where one pipe rubbed on the lip of the oil pan rail. Bent the pan rail to clear.
Good info, I think I'm gonna be good.
Interesting that the TTIs still have to be clearanced.
 
I went with these headers because at the time they only offered 1 3/4" for a low deck with stock exhaust port heads. I figured I'd make them work.
 
The 2" TTI that I have is the design from about 10 to 15 years ago. It was intended to fit an RB 440 with stock ports into an A body, and then also fit in a B body or E body since they are close to the engine. I first installed them on my low deck 400 in a 67 B body, and the only interference was the slight contact with the oil pan, and that was minimal. After many years in the B body, I moved the entire powertrain into the 75 A body, and that required the single tube to be modified to clear the pitman arm. I am certain there would have been no mods to that tube if I used an RB engine, or even raised port heads on my 400. Those TTIs have been really good for me. Not sure if they are still shaped the same in their current lineup.
 
The 2" TTI that I have is the design from about 10 to 15 years ago. It was intended to fit an RB 440 with stock ports into an A body, and then also fit in a B body or E body since they are close to the engine. I first installed them on my low deck 400 in a 67 B body, and the only interference was the slight contact with the oil pan, and that was minimal. After many years in the B body, I moved the entire powertrain into the 75 A body, and that required the single tube to be modified to clear the pitman arm. I am certain there would have been no mods to that tube if I used an RB engine, or even raised port heads on my 400. Those TTIs have been really good for me. Not sure if they are still shaped the same in their current lineup.
Are you happy with the 400 Motor?...do you race it at the strip or just run it on the street?
 
ALL's GOOD, called them, got there yesterday.
They forgot to send me an alert, bastards.
 
That 400 was an excellent engine for a long time. It was just a factory 383 forged crank, Wiseco flat top pistons, eagle rods, the cast iron heads, and a mild hydraulic cam. Lots of miles on the street and lots of passes at the strip. That engine actually spent a good portion of it's abused life in my 67 Satellite and later moved it into a 75 Dart Sport, both vehicles using lots of nitrous. It's going back in eventually, bigger and fresh. Nothing at all wrong with the 400 Chrysler engine.
 
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