[FOR SALE] 5.2 5.9 magnum EFI plug and play harnesses

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393foureyedfox said:
Ive been asked a few times if I would just sell the schematic.....

No, sorry

Even if I did, by the time you did it yourself, even with a wiring diagram showing you how to do it, you will have wished you'd just paid the $400 and had one at your door

I'm not asking a lot for these, I'm just trying to help pay my way through school
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schmatics are easy enough to get; but as someone who builds EFI harness's as well; for the average person it would be much easier to just buy one from you
 
Partial schematics or tips aren't too hard to find. You wont find one out there telling you how to do every single wire, in what gauge, and then how to wire it to your car. This info not being out there is the reason I started making them....I waited for well over 10 years hoping MP or some other company would make them, and I'd have gladly paid my asking price for them. I did it myself, and others showed interest, so I started making them.

If you're a hands-on kind of guy, buy a wiring book and a factory service manual and have at it.....with enough patience, you'll get it. most people don't have that kind of patience though. I only had it because I was laid up for months with a knee surgery and had nothing else to do.
 
Could a person get a 5.9 internally balanced if they so choose to spend more to abound crank trigger?
 
As in avoiding a crank sensor so to speak. Someone mentioned that the 5.2 is internally balanced whereas the 5.9 is not.
 
DobaDaddy said:
As in avoiding a crank sensor so to speak. Someone mentioned that the 5.2 is internally balanced whereas the 5.9 is not.
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that doesn't have anything to do with a crank sensor; its the way 360's have been built from the start both use the same crank sensor

the crank sensor is used to figure out when to fire the plugs as well as the injectors; the cam sensor is also added into the equasion to make sure everything goes as it should

to my knowledge there is no aftermarket way of triggering the cranksensor; the flying magnets crank trigger that goes on the front of an engine wont work with the factory computer
 
There is a dual pickup distributor that uses a hall effect sensor that might do the trick, but I didn't look very far into into it since it was $400 or more. That might be able to replace the crank pickup, but as far as I know it has never been tried.

I will go back to my notes and see if I can find it again.

I was working on a pickup off a plate bolted to the cam, under the cover, but I don't think I am going to go any farther than that.

You could also relocate the factory pickup (or similar) to the front of the motor. Cut some holes in the barrel of the pulley to simulate the windows in the flexplate and mount the sensor to read them. That's probably the direction I will go in someday.
 
FAST Dual Sync distributor

Pretty sure the intent was to to give a standard distributor for ignition and a pickup for a fully sequential EFI, but I could be wrong. I do remember looking at it for an OEM EFI setup and thinking it might work, but was turned away when I saw the cost. I do know it is a hall effect pickup, though.
 
The only reason, as far as I can tell, to need to find a way around the factory positioning of the crank sensor, is if 1), you just dont want to cut an access notch into your transmission bellhousing, or 2), if you want to run your 4 speed and keep your original flywheel. As discussed in the first two pages of this thread, there are a number of ways of being able to use the factory setup (My harness) and keep your 130 tooth flywheel. The re-machining of a factory magnum flywheel and pressing on of a 130 tooth ring gear is the cheapest way.
 
393foureyedfox said:
The only reason, as far as I can tell, to need to find a way around the factory positioning of the crank sensor, is if 1), you just dont want to cut an access notch into your transmission bellhousing, or 2), if you want to run your 4 speed and keep your original flywheel. As discussed in the first two pages of this thread, there are a number of ways of being able to use the factory setup (My harness) and keep your 130 tooth flywheel. The re-machining of a factory magnum flywheel and pressing on of a 130 tooth ring gear is the cheapest way.
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most people are likely wanting a way around the factory crank sensor is that they have a really good working LA engine and don't want to swap it out for a magnum or they have a numbers matching car and want to keep the engine that in it
 
66plyValiant said:
most people are likely wanting a way around the factory crank sensor is that they have a really good working LA engine and don't want to swap it out for a magnum or they have a numbers matching car and want to keep the engine that in it
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Bingo, on both parts.

That's why I've been working on it, rather keep my numbers matching block in the car, and it's a good motor.

The other reasons are:

1. The custom billet flywheel costs an arm and a leg.
2. Machining a stock flywheel down seems hit and mess, and I don't even want to know what that costs. The one guy I know of that did it said he was going to get more made, and I asked that he keep me updated. That was over a year ago and nothing so far, don't think it happened.

Just as a reminder, the above reasons are only for the magnum swap as the balance would be wrong for me anyway.
 
why are we talking custom built flywheels. i bought one from chrysler. you can get it with balancing weights or without
 
rapidtransitric said:
why are we talking custom built flywheels. i bought one from chrysler. you can get it with balancing weights or without
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yes but is your flywheel for the A-833 4 speed or something newer? also if its for A-833 4 speed can it trigger the stock crank sensor

thats why custom flywheels have been meationed. the magnum 5 speed flywheel doesn't fit the 4 speed transmission
 
The MP flywheel isn't for EFI, it's just a standard early flywheel with the correct balance for a magnum motor. No notches for the crank sensor.

And last time I checked it was $400, too.
 
393foureyedfox said:
it will work fine with a 4 speed. The way I wire it, the computer has no control over, and needs no inputs form, the transmission EXCEPT the neutral safety switch. All the neutral safety switch does is grounds the circuit when in N or Park, and allows the starter relay to then become active. If running a 4 speed, all you have to do is take the center wire from the neural safety switch plug and either ground it permanently ( the computer thinks it is always in park/neutral) OR do it the right way and run that wire up to the clutch pedal safety switch, so the car will only start when the clutch pedal is depressed, just like factory.

the only other wiring going to the transmission is the VSS (vehicle speed sensor), but that is not necessary to use, you can leave it unplugged. It is only required if 1), you are running an electronic speedometer, or 2), you want to at some point wire cruise control back into the harness. Other than that, leave it unplugged and run your original cable driven speedometer instead.

you don't need a manual trans specific computer, any dakota/ram/van 92-95 computer will work fine. They all use different color wiring in the harness, but the PCM pinout is the same.

any more questions, feel free to ask!


Doug
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Doug,

I am interested in your wiring harness. I had actually stumbled across it just prior to reading your post here. I just walked in the door from a 70 mile round trip from a couple wrecking yards looking for donor vehicles and found several, mostly ram pickups or vans. While looking for donor vehicles I stumbled across two 94 V10 pick ups. My curiosity and desire for a V10 kicked into overdrive and I wanted to ask if this is a possibility with your harness?

Even if it is not possible with a v10 I still want to get one of your harnesses. I have been following this thread from almost the beginning think I reread every post on this thread last night until my eyes were blurry. In reading on what has been written here it and looking up information about the 92 - 95 5.9's I read about the 92 being the last year for the LA 360 with roller cam. Would there be any advantage or disadvantage to this one year engine? #-o

Mike
 
66plyValiant said:
yes but is your flywheel for the A-833 4 speed or something newer? also if its for A-833 4 speed can it trigger the stock crank sensor

thats why custom flywheels have been meationed. the magnum 5 speed flywheel doesn't fit the 4 speed transmission
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DionR said:
The MP flywheel isn't for EFI, it's just a standard early flywheel with the correct balance for a magnum motor. No notches for the crank sensor.

And last time I checked it was $400, too.
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just bolt the flywheel up behind the reluctor wheel. thats what the crank sensor needs to read
 
rapidtransitric said:
just bolt the flywheel up behind the reluctor wheel. thats what the crank sensor needs to read
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You mean the stock auto flexplate with the notches? If so, that's doesn't work. They don't nest together, there used to be pictures from fzmax (I think) but they don't display anymore or I would point you to them. You could trim it to fit, but now that I think about it, if the flexplate doesn't fit behind the factory flywheel without trimming, I bet the sensor wont fit between the back of the block and the inside of the flywheel either.
 
CichliDart said:
Doug,

My curiosity and desire for a V10 kicked into overdrive and I wanted to ask if this is a possibility with your harness?

I read about the 92 being the last year for the LA 360 with roller cam. Would there be any advantage or disadvantage to this one year engine? #-o

Mike
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I do not make anything for a v10, and my harness wouldnt work with one either. Sorry.

If you are wanting to go with the magnum EFI setup, why are you interested in the 92 LA style 360 engine? the factory magnum intake will not bolt up to the LA style heads. And since magnums themselves have roller cams, there's no advantage to using a 92 LA shortblock....unless you happen to already have one in good shape that you just want to use, in which case you could convert to magnum heads, or have your 4448308 heads redrilled to accept a magnum intake.

feel free to ask any other questions!


doug
 
the factory magnum flywheels, while they will bolt up to the crank, will not fit inside the older car bellhousings. magnums only came in trucks, so they used a larger diameter 143tooth flywheel, where the older cars used 10.5 130 tooth flywheels. the 143 wont fit inside the 130 bellhousing. this is why there's been so much discussion on this thread about the ability to use a factory magnum style EFI harness, like mine, on an old 3 or 4 speed car. you either need a 130tooth flywheel with magnum style crank sensor notches cut into it, or a bellhousing that will house a 143 tooth flywheel AND have the 833 bolt pattern.

it's tricky, but theres a number of ways to make it happen
 
393foureyedfox said:
the factory magnum flywheels, while they will bolt up to the crank, will not fit inside the older car bellhousings. magnums only came in trucks, so they used a larger diameter 143tooth flywheel, where the older cars used 10.5 130 tooth flywheels. the 143 wont fit inside the 130 bellhousing. this is why there's been so much discussion on this thread about the ability to use a factory magnum style EFI harness, like mine, on an old 3 or 4 speed car. you either need a 130tooth flywheel with magnum style crank sensor notches cut into it, or a bellhousing that will house a 143 tooth flywheel AND have the 833 bolt pattern.

it's tricky, but theres a number of ways to make it happen
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well exactly. i use the dakota bellhousing with the ma5 trans from a solstace/ colorado. its a five speed that will bolt up like the r154 supra trans. good for up to 700 hp. they are plentiful and can be had for around $275.00 to $350.00 where these days an r154 is around $1500.00 or better, and becoming more scarce. i apologize for misunderstanding. for me the extra gear of a 5 speed is appreciated especially for the price. it doesn't get me into a sixspeed which would cost $3500.00 or more for one more gear
 
rapidtransitric said:
well exactly. i use the dakota bellhousing with the ma5 trans from a solstace/ colorado. its a five speed that will bolt up like the r154 supra trans. good for up to 700 hp. they are plentiful and can be had for around $275.00 to $350.00 where these days an r154 is around $1500.00 or better, and becoming more scarce. i apologize for misunderstanding. for me the extra gear of a 5 speed is appreciated especially for the price. it doesn't get me into a sixspeed which would cost $3500.00 or more for one more gear
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Same direction I might go after looking into this some more in the last couple of days. I already have an R154, but I had planned to use it behind a slant 6 project (which isn't happening anymore). Recently, I have started thinking about using the R154 in my Duster which would allow the Magnum flywheel with the notches, but the balance is wrong for my LA motor. Also, I had originally wanted to avoid the heavy 143T flywheel, partly because I didn't want to use the big bellhousing, but I'm not sure it's as big an issue as I first thought. So, the issue for me is balance, still not sure how to work that right now.

If the R154 turns out to be bad, or grenades later, I will probably got to an MA5, too. If I ever get that far, that is.

Any pictures of your build?

FYI, rumor has it that an AY6 6 speed out of a 2010 V6 camaro will bolt up to the same bell. Can't prove it, so don't hold me to it.
 
DionR said:
Same direction I might go after looking into this some more in the last couple of days. I already have an R154, but I had planned to use it behind a slant 6 project (which isn't happening anymore). Recently, I have started thinking about using the R154 in my Duster which would allow the Magnum flywheel with the notches, but the balance is wrong for my LA motor. Also, I had originally wanted to avoid the heavy 143T flywheel, partly because I didn't want to use the big bellhousing, but I'm not sure it's as big an issue as I first thought. So, the issue for me is balance, still not sure how to work that right now.

If the R154 turns out to be bad, or grenades later, I will probably got to an MA5, too. If I ever get that far, that is.

Any pictures of your build?

FYI, rumor has it that an AY6 6 speed out of a 2010 V6 camaro will bolt up to the same bell. Can't prove it, so don't hold me to it.
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i'll get some pictures together soon. you know i really appreciate this thread. everyone that has posted here has replied straight up. no hate replies ect. very cool............ if your la motor is the 318 or 340 the flywheel should be from the 5.2 magnum. if la 360 use the 5.9 magnum flywheel
 
rapidtransitric said:
if la 360 use the 5.9 magnum flywheel
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Number's matching 360. LA 360 balance is different than 5.9, wont swap directly. Thought about pulling the motor apart and getting it internally balance, then the 5.2 flywheel would work, but I don't even want to think about what that would cost.

Wish I could do a wiring harness, this has gotten me all charged up about going EFI again, but I'm doing good to just keep the car off the chopping block right now. A harness for a car that runs ok as is just isn't in the cards. Sorry.
 
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