5.2 magnum GT35 to S475

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Turbosmblk

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Figured I’d post my combo up so everyone can see things I’ve done and give an idea of what they can do and what they SHOULDN’T do. First off this is all in a 74 challenger, yes I know it’s not an A but the ebody forums are kinda dead and the purist snobs would say I ruined a car anyway. This car has been in my family since 1978 and spent its entire life out of the weather so it’s in really good shape. My goal with this whole thing was to build a drag and drive car, get 15-20mpg, not cut anything, and not smell like fuel every time I drove it.
So the turbo was a eBay GT35 I had laying around from a prior project that never saw fruition. I knew it was “small” but thought it’d be fine and get me some experience. (Looking back the turbine was way too small even for a gutless 318). I started collecting parts with the intention of running it on Holley terminator X and a dual sync distributor. The more I researched I found out I could use a Jeep cam sync and a factory magnum crank sensor with the reluctor modified for single pulse per fire(I have a pic showing where I welded up 4 of the air gaps in the reluctor as the factory 8 was too many) . This was great because it meant parts would be easily accessible if something failed 1000 miles from home. I purchased an engine harness from HCR innovations for a 58x LS engine (cam and crank reference are 5v like Chrysler stuff, I did have to put the appropriate connectors on the harness and can provide part numbers for NEW connectors not junkyard stuff) and that’s really all that’s needed to make this whole deal run other than a leash 8 circuit relay board to control fans, Transbrake power, lockup, fuel pump etc.


I built a A500 with a cope Transbrake valve body and Hughes converter so I could enjoy OD and lockup while running these events.

The motor is a 98 5.2 out of a Jeep. It has a driver side truck manifold and a Jeep passenger manifold. I cut both ball and socket ends off and welded vbands on. Stock camshaft, Indy “x” heads, and a efi super victor with a Holley elbow. Hot side was 2” into a 2.5” merge. Non intercooled and running E85. I originally started with a .68 t3 flange turbine housing. It lit off VERY quick. Like 2000rpm it made 5psi. I swapped to a 1.06 turbine housing and picked up about 5% VE without changing anything else and spool characteristics didn’t change a bit. This was indication #1 that the turbine side was severly undersized even for a 200hp motor.

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cruising down the highway with OD was amazing. Everything stayed cool and having the Holley pro dash made things super nice with the virtual switch options built into the screen that you can custom configure for things like boost control, timing retards, manual fan activation, it’s really almost limitless.

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About October of last year I saw the eBay s475s were getting really cheap ($208) and decided I’d get one and slowly collect parts to put on a “good” motor one day. A couple weeks ago I found a thread on theturboforums where a guy had put a t6 S475 on a smog 305 (170hp engine) and said it actually made 5psi by 3500 on the foot brake. This got my gears turning on if I could make things work for my engine. Fast forward to this past weekend and I was “looking” for stuff to do and decided I’d pull the radiator and see exactly how or if I could get this thing to fit. I’ve got Some pics of the gt35 beside the new turbo just to give a rough idea of how massive this thing is. (it’s basically a gallon of milk for size reference). Things snowballed and before I knew it I had pulled the old turbo kit off, cut hot side pipes and began fabbing the new hot side for this turbo to go on. I am going to cut my 26” radiator Down to 16” to help clear the shear size of the new turbo. I don’t *think* I’ll have any issue with cooling as 16” mustang radiators are very popular with the turbo LS crowd and some even get by with Honda radiators if they have a good fan. Plus being on e85 will help with cooling as well. Hot side will now be 2” fully divided. Down pipe will either be 5”reduced to 4” at the firewall and out the back or 5” to dual 4” in front of each fender (think bullhorns,but again no cutting) I will initially run non intercooled again but will eventually pull the grille support out to fit an air to air intercooler. I’m not worried about how it acts on the street as far as “fun factor” and spooling goes. At this point I strictly want to run a number at the track and run sick week etc. and see just how far a stock bottom end motor can go. The SBE record currently is 10.25 and I think I could get there with a cam swap and 20lbs based off of the current record engine combo. I’ll slowly be updating here mainly on weekends due to not getting a lot of time to work on things during the week.

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Well done! Who holds the SBE record? I’m looking forward to seeing how the S475 works for you.
 
@Turbosmblk did I read that right? Stock cam? No wonder that tiny gt35 lit off so quick. You should just buy another gt35 and stick it on the other side. What’s the new goal? How fast you wanna go?
 
I plan to put a hurtin on the sbe magnum record btw. If I ever get back to working on my car. I’ll be in a stick shift class though.
 
@Turbosmblk did I read that right? Stock cam? No wonder that tiny gt35 lit off so quick. You should just buy another gt35 and stick it on the other side. What’s the new goal? How fast you wanna go?
Yea stock camshaft for now. I do have intentions to have a regrind done by bullet or Powell in the very near future though. I want to see how much if any power I pick up first off just the turbo swap because that 62mm exducer was really killing my I think. As far as plans I’d like to run 7.0 pretty consistently. we only have 1/8 mile but good radial prep here. Since I have a Transbrake it should be easier to get it to 60’ and not have to run a ton of boost out the back. Car has Viking doubles and caltracs so suspension is there as well.
 
Yea stock camshaft for now. I do have intentions to have a regrind done by bullet or Powell in the very near future though. I want to see how much if any power I pick up first off just the turbo swap because that 62mm exducer was really killing my I think. As far as plans I’d like to run 7.0 pretty consistently. we only have 1/8 mile but good radial prep here. Since I have a Transbrake it should be easier to get it to 60’ and not have to run a ton of boost out the back. Car has Viking doubles and caltracs so suspension is there as well.

What is your launch rpm on the brake? Was it building boost on the line with the GT35?
 
What is your launch rpm on the brake? Was it building boost on the line with the GT35?
You could build whatever you wanted really. At 2800 i know it made over 13psi one time. It was far too responsive and really not drivable if you got down to it.
 

I’d like to know the back pressure:boost ratio on that at 15 pounds or so. It’s probably up in the 3:1 range.
 
I’d like to know the back pressure:boost ratio on that at 15 pounds or so. It’s probably up in the 3:1 range.
I think it just about had to be. I ran it around 15.5lbs a couple times and I could tell it made more power than when it was on 3psi but it definitely wasn’t 200hp more. Another example I did some street pulls with a dragy and on 3psi it’d go 80mph to the 1/8 on street tires. I turned it up to 12psi 1 time and it only went 83mph. That’s when I knew I had severely messed up. It was a riot from idle to say 4000. But at 4800 you could feel the car lay over significantly.

I learned a lot about how to do things wrong with this setup which I guess made me better in the long run because it made me study everything super hard. If I were starting from scratch as a guy who had never turbo’d anything I would personally NEVER look at any turbo that had a turbine exducer under 75 or 80mm for even a stock v8.
 
Well the difference between 75mm and 80 mm can be about 500hp so I’d narrow that down a bit but I get what you’re saying. I had a gt55 102 on the big block 8.1 in my dually and it ate a bushing so I had to replace it. Being my daily I needed to do it quick so I threw on a 78/75 I had just to get it on the road. I experienced the same thing. Even though on smaller displacement the 78/75 can make 800-900 it was just way too small on the hot side for my 700hp big block and it fell on its face.
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T6 Gt55 top, 78/75 bottom
 
No. Im also still running stock head bolts and whatever the permatorque head gasket part # is at the parts store. No signs of head gasket leakage yet
 
LOL I wondered when I was going to get that reply. I’ve got studs and cometics but I want to see just how much stock stuff can take.
Lots if you give it all the octane. And it doesn’t detonate. The magnums I’ve torn down have all been 5.9s and they always have big ring gaps from the factory. I’ve personally measured from .024 to .030 on top rings. Never torn down a 5.2 though.
 
Lots if you give it all the octane. And it doesn’t detonate. The magnums I’ve torn down have all been 5.9s and they always have big ring gaps from the factory. I’ve personally measured from .024 to .030 on top rings. Never torn down a 5.2 though.
Being on e85 definitely helps. Plus I pull an additional 3deg at MBT to cushion things some. That’s apparently how all the big power sbe LS Stuff lives so that’s what I’ve implemented as well.ive actually got a spare motor torn down currently. I may have to pull some rings off and see what they measure at.
 
Being on e85 definitely helps. Plus I pull an additional 3deg at MBT to cushion things some. That’s apparently how all the big power sbe LS Stuff lives so that’s what I’ve implemented as well.ive actually got a spare motor torn down currently. I may have to pull some rings off and see what they measure at.
So youve dynod it and know where MBT is with the stock cam?
Please do measure the ring gap and let us know.
 
So youve dynod it and know where MBT is with the stock cam?
Please do measure the ring gap and let us know.
I haven’t, however I’ve taken advise from some guys that tune Holley for a living and they said you can watch your VE numbers on your fuel graph and where it peaks it’s typically max torque then it will start falling off in the upper rpm range. That’s exactly what my fuel graph does between 3700-4200 range. My theory on this was further solidified when a guy on YouTube (restoreitralph) dynod a bone stock magnum with a gt45 and peak torque was at like 3100 just like the factory peak torque numbers. He then put a Hughes air gap on with no other changes and peak torque was now 3800. So my super victor probably pushed things up a couple hundred from that.
 
Do you have any spare inputs on the Term X to wire in an EMAP sensor?
I assume you’re referring to back pressure? If so I also have a can I/o module so I have extra I/o I can use. I’ve thought about installing one, but once you know it doesn’t really change unless you turn up boost etc so I have thought about using my dome pressure sensor to get readings and then just cap the port and hook the dome sensor back up.
 
I assume you’re referring to back pressure? If so I also have a can I/o module so I have extra I/o I can use. I’ve thought about installing one, but once you know it doesn’t really change unless you turn up boost etc so I have thought about using my dome pressure sensor to get readings and then just cap the port and hook the dome sensor back up.

I got the CAN I/O module as well, I figured you can’t have too many data points. I figured the sensors aren’t that much money so I bought an extra map for back pressure and a regular pressure sensor for water pressure. It might help see if I’m lifting the heads.
 
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