500 vs 512 from 400ci

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This is the type of griddle I wanted to use.
My thinking was that aluminum mains + use of hardblock would do a lot of good as dampening material. Good balance work added and I could pull it off.

F1ACEEE2-958B-44F2-852E-BACA464DB369.jpeg
 
OK I spent time on the phon today calling KB, BME, Indy, Ritter, Callies...
Only Indy makes a low deck block and the price is 7300 before machnining and 8300 after machining. This is more than I planned to spend on everything so no aftermarket block for me.

I will give it a shot with 230 casting block.
After thinking it thru I will use 500 stroker with longer rod to avoid side loading, 4.15” crank and 6.760 rods.
Will get line2line coating on the pistons, half fill with hardblock + install BCR griddle. Rotating assembly will be dynamically balanced. This is a long therm deal but I will send updates while I’m shopping for parts and machining.
If it blows up soon after I will post that also.
Not giving up that easy. I see many builds with more power than I want living for years somehow. Hoping to be that lucky also.
I will use nitrous controller to make things as gentle as I can.

Are 440 source complete strokers a good option or should I just get Molnar crank and rods with custom coated pistons from UEM directly?
 
ValiantS said:
Respectfully, you cannot use long-term and stock block 1100HP in the same context. I like a longer rod because it stresses the bore walls less. If you gusset-up and make the main area better, may as well reinforce the cylinder walls AT THE SAME TIME. Sonic check and either filling or sleeving anything questionable. Set the bore to where you can get GOOD THIN rings.
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What rings would you recommend in this?
 
Miszny said:
OK I spent time on the phon today calling KB, BME, Indy, Ritter, Callies...
Only Indy makes a low deck block and the price is 7300 before machnining and 8300 after machining. This is more than I planned to spend on everything so no aftermarket block for me.

I will give it a shot with 230 casting block.
After thinking it thru I will use 500 stroker with longer rod to avoid side loading, 4.15” crank and 6.760 rods.
Will get line2line coating on the pistons, half fill with hardblock + install BCR griddle. Rotating assembly will be dynamically balanced. This is a long therm deal but I will send updates while I’m shopping for parts and machining.
If it blows up soon after I will post that also.
Not giving up that easy. I see many builds with more power than I want living for years somehow. Hoping to be that lucky also.
I will use nitrous controller to make things as gentle as I can.

Are 440 source complete strokers a good option or should I just get Molnar crank and rods with custom coated pistons from UEM directly?
Click to expand...

Before I spent money and machine work on a girdle I’d call Bill Miller and talk to him about aluminum rods on the street.

An aluminum rod will go way further to saving your block and crank than a girdle ever will.

And a crank damper that doesn’t use an elastomer.
 
Rat Bastid said:
Before I spent money and machine work on a girdle I’d call Bill Miller and talk to him about aluminum rods on the street.

An aluminum rod will go way further to saving your block and crank than a girdle ever will.

And a crank damper that doesn’t use an elastomer.
Click to expand...
Wanted to ask about aluminum rods but it seems many people here already think I’m crazy….
 
Miszny said:
Wanted to ask about aluminum rods but it seems many people here already think I’m crazy….
Click to expand...

I can’t respond to this other than to say guys have been using aluminum rods on the street for decades.

It can be done and if I was in your situation I’d seriously look at them. They do way more to help block and crank life than a girdle ever can.
 
ValiantS said:
You SHOULD be able to get a .9mm in SS for first. Second .9 napier in 4.375"ish bore then a 3mm oil Mahle
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That would be about as good as it gets. What about a 2mm oil ring?? The 3mm is only about .120 thou but the 2mm is only about .080 thou. I’m all for the thinnest rings that will get the oil off the cylinder wall.
 
Just got of the phone with Bill Miller, wow what a source of information. It amazes me that you get these companies in USA, you call them and talk to the guy himself. Amazing!
He said I dont need a griddle because I'm not planning to make enough power to ever need it ;-)
His suggestion is to use aluminium main caps with studs. Offered a set of rods with pistons and rings for 3500$ which sounds tempting.
This will exceed my initial budget by over 1000$ with Molnar crankshaft but If this is going to make it possible, I'm in.
 
Dzien dobry Mizny,

Aluminum 2 bolt caps is the easiest solution I believe?
All 4 bolt caps need a huge amount of machining work to fit...

We have done several stroker motors here in the UK with the 400 and 440 blocks.
Due to excessive 'cap-walk' we converted them with program engineering 4 bolt caps!

The 230 casting is without a doubt the BEST of the stock blocks.
Shorter stroke is always better with longer skirts.

The short skirt engines that we have run on the street with 'pump' gas have all had skirt failures!
Lower compression with shorter stroke is a must for a street engine for me!

I run a 512ci 440-block now with Edelbrock heads on pump gas and she is SWEET!

The best I engine I ever had was a 230 block with a 547 stroker that made 900hp on pump gas!
My 'avatar car' was fastest Euro street car with 8.3o @ 178mph back in the 90's...

Blocks don't last long with over 1000hp lol...

Best wishes from England

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2017-07-24 512 engine.jpg
 
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I don't know a lot about it but isn't the piston getting awfully short with a 512? There's not a lot of support area at the skirt.
 
Milodon Ductile Mains will give some dampening for the crank. Could still run a girdle if you wanted to. Had some exposure to some heavy NSS cars using stock 400 blocks @496 ci and everyone swears by the Ductile caps.
 
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