55* total timing? WTH?

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Here is timing instructions posted on TVMoparClub. Haven't really scrutinized it but the basics on how to time your engine seem to be there.

[ame]http://tvmoparclub.com/files/tech/Mopar%20Timing.pdf[/ame]
 
Just to clarify its not mine just posting the document I ran across on timing this evening.
 
I know most of you guys all know this stuff but I thought I would share. I haven't used it as I have my own books and my own way..... However I ran a cross this and it seems the basics are there anyway. I make no claim as to its accuracy.



Here is their site for reference
http://tvmoparclub.com

The timing document:
[ame]http://tvmoparclub.com/files/tech/Mopar%20Timing.pdf[/ame]
 
TheMoparMan said:
-Find and disconnect the vacuum line to the distributor. Connect the vacuum gauge to the line.
-START ENGINE, outside of garage, and run until Engine operating temperature is reached and choke is completely off, transmission in Park.
-Determine your vehicle’s ideal idle speed in RPM; usually 600-800 RPM. If you have a high performance cam it may be as much as 1100 RPM.
-Connect tachometer to determine idle rpm. -Adjust carburetor idle screw to achieve desired rpm.
-TURN ENGINE OFF.
-Connect Timing Light
-START ENGINE and point timing light at mark on damper.
Record the timing reading and the vacuum reading.
-Disconnect the vacuum gauge.
-Re-connect the vacuum line to the distributor.
-Run the engine up to 3000 RPM, point timing light as above. - Record the timing reading.
-TURN ENGINE OFF
You have now established the theoretical .
Click to expand...

I have no idea where you came up with this. This is NOT HOW it is done
 
Hahaha.... I am wondering the same because that is a quote from the print out I used to get these numbers!

Ill be doing a bit more research on all this again now. Hahaha..

67Dart: please explain whats not correct about that process. Thanks for all of your help by the way! All of you!
 
famous bob said:
what don`t u like about it ?
Click to expand...

Read what it says. Then go look up some of crackedbacks posts, and the one I posted earlier which came from a magazine article via AbodyJoe

I quoted the first part of the "procedure" and no where does it explain WHERE you set timing to obtain what you want.........Read what I quoted........Does it make sense?

Now I removed extra wording before and after, but at no point did I remove any PART OF the so called procedure pertaining to setting idle. It doesn't tell you how to DETERMINE idle (initial) timing, only how to CHECK idle (initial) timing

1......You determine what the engine likes for idle. You do this with a vacuum gauge I already posted this earlier. You adjust for max idle RPM and vacuum, and "be ready" to back it off (retard) a "few" degrees. You check when the engine is hot and make sure it does not kick the starter. You make sure it does not "ping" at low speed, wide throttle settings

2.....You determine the best setting for WOT power, vacuum disconnected With mechanical at "full advance." On a factory dist. you may have to pull out the "overload spring" to make certain it's "all advanced." You want to "look" for WOT ping, and max HP. A dyno is "handy," a G-tech is useful and cheaper, especially if you buy one used

http://www.gtechpro.com/



3.....THEN You recurve the distributor to connect 1 and 2, then diddle with springs to make it happen when (RPM) it likes. A litt'le bit 'o a note on this........If you have more than 20-22 crank degrees into the distributor, and stock springs, this 'hain't a gonna work. And "the books" print "distributor degrees" which means you need 10-12 degrees "in the distributor"

4.....Last you add the vacuum on for low throttle cruise. This can be another "diddle." (EDIT MISPRINT LOL) NOT ALL carbs "port" the same, and you need to be sure that vacuum doesn't kick in too quick at part throttle and cause more mid-range "ping." I used to have trouble with this EG Quadrajunk on a 340 in my old FJ-40
 
67Dart273 said:
x3

BUT THAT IS NOT what he said



If he has 15 initial and 24 mechanical this is THIRTY NINE total under power. Way too much most of the time. If he backs the total (without vacuum) back to 35 or so, the initial AND the total with vacuum is going to go all to 'ell

What you want

Set the initial for "all it will take." This means tune for max idle RPM and vacuum, if necessary you can back this off a bit. "The test" is kicking back on the starter, and low speed ping.

Then you need to figure out what best / safe power is with no vacuum. This is your 35 or so, plus or minus. THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN THESE TWO is what you need to curve the distributor mechanical for. IE 18--20 or whatever.

THEN you add the vacuum on the end, and this can be 'quite a bit' as the vacuum is only under cruise and light throttle. 55--approaching 60 is not uncommon on "fuel mileage" vehicles

AbodyJoe posted this years ago:

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=158842
Click to expand...

^^^ Exactly this. You don't add up all 3 numbers because at WOT the vaccum advance is not in; there is very little vacuum at WOT, ported or manifold. The only time you have them adding up is at higher speeds with light cruise; in that case, the fairly closed throttle will allow ported vacuum to build, mechanical will be all in or nearly all in, and you will get a lot of total advacne.
 
That TV pdf is true destructions :). I wonder how many have made their cars run like crap.

Thanks Dell for your great instructions.
 
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