6=8 and bore over?

-
Be ready of a LOT of smoke if you do the Rislone down the carb thing. The neighborhood kids will think it is great....LOL
 
C Galloway said:
I have a 71 demon 225. The 6 starts and runs, but only runs decently for about 35 mins then starta crapping out. Anyways my variety of gear head friends have differing opinions of motor choices. Some says do and LS swap, some say find an old v8 rebuilt it and swap out. LS swap besides being near sacrilege sounds too complex, involved and spendy. Old mopar v8 seems do able, but also spendy. My idea... clifford 6=8 kit, rebuild motor, maybe bore over and shift kit for tranny, if thats an option for the 3 speed. My limitations are max 6k$. Body and interior is done enough to my satisfaction, but chassis, suspension is all stock. And tends to drift around a bit more then id like on the highway. So 6k max is what ill have to make this car more then just a looker. Anyone do a 6=8 kit? Like it? Worth it? Opinions welcome thanks
Click to expand...
i did the the clifford kit and love it in my b body

IMG_1087.JPG


IMG_1067.JPG
 
I have tested compression w/ throttle propped open and closed and noticed no difference in readings, but open is smarter. When I measured 90 psig in one cylinder of my 1969 slant, it soon started showing a clean spark plug (raw, unburnt gas). I removed the lifters and push-rods in that cylinder to keep the valves closed and ran it for a year or so until I swapped for a rebuilt long block. When I pulled the head, that cylinder was perfectly clean inside (i.e. no combustion) and the cylinder walls were noticeably scuffed. If I recall, it was cyl 5, which also seems to be the one that likes to put the rod thru the side of the block, at least for several members here. Coincidence?
 
BillGrissom said:
I have tested compression w/ throttle propped open and closed and noticed no difference in readings, but open is smarter. When I measured 90 psig in one cylinder of my 1969 slant, it soon started showing a clean spark plug (raw, unburnt gas). I removed the lifters and push-rods in that cylinder to keep the valves closed and ran it for a year or so until I swapped for a rebuilt long block. When I pulled the head, that cylinder was perfectly clean inside (i.e. no combustion) and the cylinder walls were noticeably scuffed. If I recall, it was cyl 5, which also seems to be the one that likes to put the rod thru the side of the block, at least for several members here. Coincidence?
Click to expand...
Hmm that is interesting. So you ran on 5 cylinders for a year? Any thoughts on why cyl 5 may do that? And would a redone head be an option without having to delve into rings etc be a fix?
 
C Galloway said:
Thanks a lot, ill give that a shot. I routed the fuel line from pump to carb and seems to have help drastically with hot start up. Still havent gotten a nice 35 plus minute drive in yet to see for sure because i never have time to sit at dmv to renw the tags. Doing compression test this weekend
Click to expand...
Finally got it registered again and drove it to work. Found crack on top of radiator and got hot by the time i got to work. Filled the water up and no overheat issue on way home. Next day drove around for awhile, went to the park for about 15 mins and had the hardest time starting up again. Starts cold on first crank, but anytime i run into a store more then 5 mins after warmed up it takes a lot of cranking and pumping (embarrassing when people just compliment your car and watching) to get started. Did the rubber line thing and runs great. Would making an aluminum heat shield be the fix now or scraping the carb for different style? Was this heat soak a common issue when new or stock?
 
C Galloway said:
Finally got it registered again and drove it to work. Found crack on top of radiator and got hot by the time i got to work. Filled the water up and no overheat issue on way home. Next day drove around for awhile, went to the park for about 15 mins and had the hardest time starting up again. Starts cold on first crank, but anytime i run into a store more then 5 mins after warmed up it takes a lot of cranking and pumping (embarrassing when people just compliment your car and watching) to get started. Did the rubber line thing and runs great. Would making an aluminum heat shield be the fix now or scraping the carb for different style? Was this heat soak a common issue when new or stock?
Click to expand...
Just couldnt imagine people dealing with that everytime you go to the grocery in the 70s, i wouldve taken it back to the dealer ha!
 
BillGrissom said:
I have tested compression w/ throttle propped open and closed and noticed no difference in readings, but open is smarter. When I measured 90 psig in one cylinder of my 1969 slant, it soon started showing a clean spark plug (raw, unburnt gas). I removed the lifters and push-rods in that cylinder to keep the valves closed and ran it for a year or so until I swapped for a rebuilt long block. When I pulled the head, that cylinder was perfectly clean inside (i.e. no combustion) and the cylinder walls were noticeably scuffed. If I recall, it was cyl 5, which also seems to be the one that likes to put the rod thru the side of the block, at least for several members here. Coincidence?
Click to expand...
It's funny you should say number five I just recently bought a used slant six and found it off that the side of the block had like a blob of welded material hahaha. Didn't think.mych of it since the engine ran perfectly fine and didn't see any blow by or any serious noise. Well when I brought it home it was a ***** and a half to put it on a engine stand since I was going to seal up some gaskets and put a new timing chain on it. But only to mess ip and brake a piece of the block off since it was to heavy im guessing or I wasn't careful enough to set it on the stand and pretty much fucket my project up hahaha. But then when I started taring it apart to use the good parts inside I come to find out that the block was already 30 over and thus making since of that blob weld on the side of the block. But good thing because now I have e thirty perfectly good pistons and a nice crank to go with a block I have on the side that I'ma bore out thirty and put a nice comp cam on it and deck the block. And finishing move a nice four barrel and headers hahaha. But man that number five pretty sure it happened to this block too hahaha. Oh and the walls and engine was clean so far walls still have the dingel ball marks on it pretty sweet
 
I have no idea why cylinder 5 is the one that seems to fail. I also have no idea how low-compression and throwing a rod could be related. If anything the opposite should be true (less force).

The early round-top radiators seem prone to split the upper seam, usually on the front side where you must remove the radiator to re-solder it. Happened on both my 69 Dart and 65 Newport. Whenever I re-soldered, it would split again within a year. A radiator shop guy told me that was common. He said he soldered in a copper cross-brace in the top to try to hold it together. I didn't see that, and not sure if a designed solution or something he came up with. The later square-top radiators don't seem to have this problem, but the round-top is sure prettier when painted nice.
 
BillGrissom said:
I have no idea why cylinder 5 is the one that seems to fail. I also have no idea how low-compression and throwing a rod could be related. If anything the opposite should be true (less force).

The early round-top radiators seem prone to split the upper seam, usually on the front side where you must remove the radiator to re-solder it. Happened on both my 69 Dart and 65 Newport. Whenever I re-soldered, it would split again within a year. A radiator shop guy told me that was common. He said he soldered in a copper cross-brace in the top to try to hold it together. I didn't see that, and not sure if a designed solution or something he came up with. The later square-top radiators don't seem to have this problem, but the round-top is sure prettier when painted nice.
Click to expand...
I actually have the round type with two good upper and lower tanks ahahha the core is ****. And yeah same here u took it to the radiator guy and he said that they crack all the time and the Ines I have were actually in really good conditions. So he told me to save them. The radiator was off a 65 dart slant six
 
Well my house has sold, which is what ive been waiting on to decide my path for the demon. Ive been really torn with the v8 swap or souped up 6. Ive been watching some youtube slant videos and ive think my mind is made up. Souped up 6 is the my thing. V8 swap seems almost too easy, besides the pain of all the driveline, trans engine mounta etc. Once the 6 is screaming i think itll be worth it. Now the question is where to start. Start easy and do head work and intake/exhaust or just pull it all and tear down to rebuild..
 
Why not see if you can find a core engine, cheap enough, and do a complete build. Then just swap engines. At one time slant engines could be had cheap/free, but that is not always the case, anymore. But doesn't hurt to check around. Just make sure the engine is a 68 or newer, so it will fit the trans.
 
Charrlie_S said:
Why not see if you can find a core engine, cheap enough, and do a complete build. Then just swap engines. At one time slant engines could be had cheap/free, but that is not always the case, anymore. But doesn't hurt to check around. Just make sure the engine is a 68 or newer, so it will fit the trans.
Click to expand...
Found a possible engine. 1980 225 from a d100. Been completly rebuilt and comes with tranny. Waiting for answer on what the tranny is. It needs intake exhaust carb and distributor. No price listed, just make offer. Seems like it may be a good choice since id be going with new intake exhaust and carb anyways. Thoughts? Reasonable offer amount?
 
C Galloway said:
Found a possible engine. 1980 225 from a d100. Been completly rebuilt and comes with tranny. Waiting for answer on what the tranny is. It needs intake exhaust carb and distributor. No price listed, just make offer. Seems like it may be a good choice since id be going with new intake exhaust and carb anyways. Thoughts? Reasonable offer amount?
Click to expand...

Screenshot_20170919-211516.png


Screenshot_20170919-211511.png


Screenshot_20170919-211501.png
 
C Galloway said:
Found a possible engine. 1980 225 from a d100. Been completly rebuilt and comes with tranny. Waiting for answer on what the tranny is. It needs intake exhaust carb and distributor. No price listed, just make offer. Seems like it may be a good choice since id be going with new intake exhaust and carb anyways. Thoughts? Reasonable offer amount?
Click to expand...
Glanced at the pix.... what makes you think this is a 'completely rebuilt' engine and not just a re-paint job? When I see things like the fuel pump painted just like the block, and the trans housing painted, it screams 'repaint job!" to me. With no other info, I would consider it an core only.
 
nm9stheham said:
Glanced at the pix.... what makes you think this is a 'completely rebuilt' engine and not just a re-paint job? When I see things like the fuel pump painted just like the block, and the trans housing painted, it screams 'repaint job!" to me. With no other info, I would consider it an core only.
Click to expand...
I had considered that too. Only info i have is what he said. Id have to definetly take a closer look at it. But so far hasnt responded for a price anyways. What i also found odd is that if he rebuilds engines for fun like he said, how did he not know what the tranny was...
 
And the definition of 'rebuilt' can be all over the map. Throwing some used bearings, rings, , chain, and pistons into a block that is not cracked, under a head with no missing valves, would meet some people's definition LOL. It is unwise IMHO to accept an engine's condition based solely on someone's word; assume it is worn/old/shot if you cannot hear it run and check compression, etc. Maybe you pass up on something good from time to time, but way too many folks get burned.
 
That is a "peanut-head" engine. They don't have the spark-plug tubes, like earlier engines. The biggest disadvantage is that to replace the valve lifters, you must remove the head, so no easy camshaft swaps. I think a 1980 would also have hydraulic lifters. Advantage is no need for regular valve adjustments. Downside is less performance and no option for a wilder camshaft. The later 998/999 transmissions are a bit better I think, but read-up that there are no connection issues (lock-up torque converter electical input, etc). A truck tranny may also have gear ratios that aren't as nice for a car.
 
BillGrissom said:
That is a "peanut-head" engine. They don't have the spark-plug tubes, like earlier engines. The biggest disadvantage is that to replace the valve lifters, you must remove the head, so no easy camshaft swaps. I think a 1980 would also have hydraulic lifters. Advantage is no need for regular valve adjustments. Downside is less performance and no option for a wilder camshaft. The later 998/999 transmissions are a bit better I think, but read-up that there are no connection issues (lock-up torque converter electical input, etc). A truck tranny may also have gear ratios that aren't as nice for a car.
Click to expand...
 
read-up that there are no connection issues (lock-up torque converter
the issues with swapping tranny is only on early engines up to 67 , 68 to 76 forged cranks have the bigger end on the crank to accept the lock u later torque, i found that out the hard way , my bel is 67 and when i went to pt tranny on wouldnt fit , so i found a crank on e bay from a 75 and put it in now i have the lock up torque
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top