/6 to V-8 swap question

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REVIVER

REVIVER

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Looking to swap a 318 drive train from a 1974 4 door valiant into a 73 duster with a /6. I will be swapping motor, trans and rear all at the same time. Question is will the drive shaft be the correct length or can I reuse the duster /6 shaft?
 
REVIVER said:
Looking to swap a 318 drive train from a 1974 4 door valiant into a 73 duster with a /6. I will be swapping motor, trans and rear all at the same time. Question is will the drive shaft be the correct length or can I reuse the duster /6 shaft?
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Depending on the trans and rear you will need the driveshaft shorted but I would grab the valiant drive shaft just to have around.
 
REVIVER said:
Looking to swap a 318 drive train from a 1974 4 door valiant into a 73 duster with a /6. I will be swapping motor, trans and rear all at the same time. Question is will the drive shaft be the correct length or can I reuse the duster /6 shaft?
Click to expand...

If they are both 904s the driveshaft you have will work. You do know that the /6 K frame and the V8 k frame is different, right?
 
the 74 valiant has an 111" wheelbase and the 73 duster 108" wheelbase if i remember

the 73 duster will more than likely have a 7 1/4 and the valiant an 8 1/4

so i think the duster shaft will work.

they are the same yoke for the 904/3 speed (if applicable)
 
I am trying to get more info on the donor car to see what rear and trans are in it. It should be a 904 and 8.25 hopefully. As for the K member yes I will be getting the adapter mounts.
Thanks for the hopeful good news that the shaft will fit guys.
 
REVIVER said:
I am trying to get more info on the donor car to see what rear and trans are in it. It should be a 904 and 8.25 hopefully. As for the K member yes I will be getting the adapter mounts.
Thanks for the hopeful good news that the shaft will fit guys.
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Are they both disc brake cars or both drum brake cars? Why not used the K frame out of the V8 car in yours because everything will bolt up to it?
 
The Duster was a drum but converted to disc with the kit. The valiant is disc. I have not swapped a K frame before and was looking for the easy way out. Also have minimal room to work on in the garage if both cars are side by side. I will have to do that for the rear end swap but was going to yank the motor from the Valiant, push it out and pull the Duster in for the swap. The drive way is sloped too much to jack on safely.
 
The easy way is to drop the whole thing out the bottom onto a dolly.but I understand your work space limitations. For me I would drop it out. Leave engine n trans all assembled. You can keep the stronger 74 spool mounts, factory disc brakes. I think in the long run, you'd be happier.
 
There are lots of different ways to accomplish this task. Working on a slope is not impossible. Safety is the foremost concern regardless.
I'm sharing my approach just for consideration. Scafolding bases make very steady 3 leg stands. A piece of 5 inch channel iron cut 4 inches long welded to the top of each makes a perfect clip for you cars subframe. You would need 8 of them. 4 each of 2 different heights. Example 4 inch slope, 4 stands at 20 inches tall, 4 stands at 24 inches tall.
Jacking the cars high enough to get these stands underneath isn't easy. Hiring a boom truck to lift the cars for you is easy.
Once both cars are ready for wrenching, the only problem remaining is tools rolling away LOL. Every part you want to swap drops right out from under both cars.
I use a trans adapter on top of a floor jack. The jack will not roll in dirt. To solve that I have a half sheet ( 4X4 ) 1/4 inch checker plate or tread plate. The jack rolls click to click on this plate to right where I want it and stays there.
Scrap metal prices have went up since I purchased these materials but they are still here to use again and again or sell at a profit.
I've also aquired a large piece of plastic that was once the wall of an above ground swimming pool. I can drop anything from a starter to and engine on it and slide it like its on ice.
 
Seems like a lot more work than the conversion mounts. I have snatched motor and tranny out the top in less than 30 minutes many times and I spent $1300 doing the brake conversion so the front suspenssion is all new including the torsion bars. Dont want to go back in there if I dont have to. Has there been problems reported or any bad experiences with the conversion mounts I am unaware of?
Redfish, great ideas for working on a slope but I plan to do this once. If I were to do this kind of thing often I would use some of the suggestions. Im sure others here just had a light bulb come on for them.
 
AH HA...I see the conversion mounts are a little more work than I expected. Did not know you have to modify the K member to make them work. Cut, Grind, Drill and hope. I thought they were direct bolt on. That may change the plan.
 
REVIVER said:
AH HA...I see the conversion mounts are a little more work than I expected. Did not know you have to modify the K member to make them work. Cut, Grind, Drill and hope. I thought they were direct bolt on. That may change the plan.
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its really easy. i cut and drilled mine in less than 15 minutes. mine are doing excellent after a full year of daily driving.

two quick cuts and two new holes. piece of cake
 
That's what it looked like to me, glad to hear someone that has done it chime in with a confidence builder. It usually looks easy until you get the rib cage spread open, then it all goes to poop from there.
 
REVIVER said:
That's what it looked like to me, glad to hear someone that has done it chime in with a confidence builder. It usually looks easy until you get the rib cage spread open, then it all goes to poop from there.
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LOL i hear you there. my V8 dropped right in . i was very happy with how smooth it went. i got my mounts from shumacher
 
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