**600hp sbm block limit? Or is it bs!!**

-
woah, talk about taking a question WAY outta context...but thanks for your assumptions about my own car and others

Wanna pound your chest some more while your at it? because that cracked me up LOL

I didn't take you out of context your FOS. I have 3 real good Race car friends that do the same **** to me. My point was I use my car and will burn more fuel in a weekend than most will in 2 years that track race. I get a lot of time behind the wheel and I know exactly what my cars will do and exactly how they will act when doing it.
I've seen this before when I was heavily into the Sand Dune scene. Guys would sit at the drags wiping off their $100k cars starring at them and idle them around burning 3 gallons of fuel all weekend and put them back in the trailer, but boy they look cool. I would burn 85 gallons in mine. I use my **** is my point and put them through their paces.
 
I didn't take you out of context your FOS. I have 3 real good Race car friends that do the same **** to me. My point was I use my car and will burn more fuel in a weekend than most will in 2 years that track race. I get a lot of time behind the wheel and I know exactly what my cars will do and exactly how they will act when doing it.
I've seen this before when I was heavily into the Sand Dune scene. Guys would sit at the drags wiping off their $100k cars starring at them and idle them around burning 3 gallons of fuel all weekend and put them back in the trailer, but boy they look cool. I would burn 85 gallons in mine. I use my **** is my point and put them through their paces.

LOL you clearly did take it all outta context, as your reply shows that again.

Do the same **** to you as your race car friends- what was I doing exactly?...I asked you whether or not you race it, or just stop light battles, thats all...and when I meant race, I meant organized street or track.It's pretty obvious your touchy about the question since your up in defense about it, wonder why? I was just asking a question, since it seems like a pretty stout setup, and I know where your at there is quite a bit of "street" action :D

And for your information, my car is a pump gas street car that gets driven nearly every single day that it is good weather out, and I blow through more gas in 2 nights then you do in a week (the stack of gas receipts that I have in the summer is depressing to say the least!)...and not to car shows like you either- I drive everywhere! even in the damned rain! When I do race, I trailer to the track that is 2.5hrs away, air down the tires, take out the subwoofer, and go have fun the same way it goes down the street! So please, stop talking to me like some all righteous prick, because I'm not sure what I did to deserve it.

I could come up with some bullshit comments about guys like you who get off from light to light battles and 2 stages of nitrous on a car that doesn't race and just loves that "seat of the pants" ****, but I won't because I'm not judging like you are
 
Righteous? Lol I'm the biggest prick you will ever meet.

Glad you drive your car, most don't. I obviously took you wrong on that subject.
Enuf said I'm going to burn some fuel.
 
Righteous? Lol I'm the biggest prick you will ever meet.

Glad you drive your car, most don't. I obviously took you wrong on that subject.
Enuf said I'm going to burn some fuel.


Im kinda getting that picture now :D

You did take me wrong, I thought you knew what I was getting at.

Seriously though, if that thing runs as good as you say it does, you should "get down" with er if you know what I mean....after all its everywhere around ya there (wish it still was here because I wouldn't even go to the track anymore) and might be a nice way to fund that 2nd stage lol


REAL street cars TTMFF! Love it when I go to the track and my car runs faster then fully tubbed, BB high compression track only cars :D
 
Just to continue the thread that 600 hp is not the limit....

It's gone 10.60s @ 133.65 mph weighing 4200#. (I apologize - sorry - not an A-Body but a Dakota) Depending on which calculator you use, that should be in the 700hp range and it's been doing so for years.

2-bolt '99 Magnum 360 block
Factory main bolts
Scat forged crank
Scat H-Beams
Probe Forged Pistons
All internally balanced
Iron Ram EQ heads
Factory head bolts
Cometics
2bbl M1 intake
Single 76mm Turbo
18 psi of boost

Good to see you here Duner!
 
I also drive the **** out of my Dart. It sees 3-4k miles every summer now here in Detroit, and now that I have it shaken down and proper wheels and tires on it, it will be seeing a lot more track time along with the normal street beatings that I put on the little 390.
 
Some great stories on here!

I plan on pushing a LA 318 to breaking point so I'll report back with how I go..

1972 318, 76mm turbo, efi, haltech ecu, id2000 injectors, crank trigger, ls1 coils, built 904 etc etc

Running on e85 I hope to dip into the 9s in an Aussie ve valiant


Now if I planned on building a small block capable of 1000hp + what block options are out there???
 
I am running a 73 340 block with main studs only, and no hard block. It has a 3.79 stroke crank ,10.9 comp and 360-2 Indy heads pump 93 gas. According to the Wallace Racing calculators I am making around 625 hp going by my mph. On the dyno with a 1050 dom. it made 662 at 7300. I am running a 950 carb now with a stock mechanical fuel pump and autozone fuel filter. That may be holding me back compared to the dyno numbers. Best E.T. so far has been 6.29@109 with 1.33 60 ft. at 2950 lbs. driven 40 mile round trip to track. It is not a A-body.
I want to try a little N.O.S. and get a 5.9x in the 1/8. Maybe 100 shot. Maybe my stock block will hold up..
 
How much do you think studs help guys?

I am still running the stock bolts and caps, half filled 91 360 block...Getting Indy 360-2 heads and a crower solid roller cam, as well as a 175 hit of juice

Was thinking of possibly stepping up to studs, but not sure if they are worth it? Plus, not sure if it is "ok" to just screw them in?
 
I am in the process of planning my factory 340 block to withstand 600-625 HP...
-Forged MOLNAR crank and H-beam rods .
-Diamond pistons ( lightweight )...
- ARP studs
- Internally balanced .

THe ONLY thing i am not sure of and was hoping somebody would of brought it up is one if these 3 below for mains .
1. 2 bolt billet mains
2. 4 bolt billet mains with splayed outer bolts.
3. 2 bolt Billet aluminum mains ...

My first choice would be aluminum mains due to helping in diverting harmonics away from webbing ? Apparently there is no life span like aluminum rods have ??? Any suggestions ?
 
I'm use the Milodon ductile iron caps, but don't run the outer 4 bolt provision. The OEM block webbing where the outer bolts go is too thin already.
 
I had a set of BCR two bolt caps on our filled stock block 340. Being those are few and far between I'd go with the four bolt caps utilizing only the two bolts.... while we didn't dyno the combo, raise the shift point to 7200 and it would go 9.8's @ 136. Had about 150 passes and the rod/mains always looked great... crap leaky W5 heads ended that era.
7-13-2007W5Engine-12.jpg
 
Im not sure all the specs but a friend of mine & his dad has a small block demon with 800 plus hp. I think its a R block. Im not sure. It is a aftermarket block.
 




Couple of stock blockers. No girdle, no block fill. I own both and both have hundreds of passes on them. the Dart is 3400 pounds and goes 155 in the quarter on 10 psi of boost at 344".
 




Couple of stock blockers. No girdle, no block fill. I own both and both have hundreds of passes on them. the Dart is 3400 pounds and goes 155 in the quarter on 10 psi of boost at 344".

These are very impressive. Care to share anything about them, or atleast any details on the blocks that helps them live?
 
These are very impressive. Care to share anything about them, or atleast any details on the blocks that helps them live?
Thanks man. They are a labor of love and a full time job all wrapped into one. I will tell you anything you want to know, so if have any questions fire away. The Dart is a twin turbo 344" stock stroke 4.070 bore 1970 block. It has a Eagle 4340 crank in it GRP aluminum rods, and Ross heavy as all get out very old turbo piston (custom made for me in 1997). I originally went turbo with it in the late 90's. The engine in that car was built in 2018 and has seen a lot of street miles and a lot of abusive passes. The key to this one and the other one is detonation. Detonation kills motors. Some tolerate it better than others. I am super super careful with the tune up and very conservative on timing (20 degrees total). Both the Duster and the Dart are 1970 blocks with excellent machine work, carefully blueprinted and assembled. No hard block, no girdle just the stock block. They do have 4 bolt splayed main caps but I truly think that is a detriment more than an advantage because the block has no meat for those 3/8 bolts on the outside main bolts. Plus they go in the cooling passage and for me I would rather run a stock cap. Which I did in the 90's. The Dart has made 1222 at the tire at 20 psi on the Dyno at the wheel. It made several passes there with no distress. The Duster made 645 on the Dyno (flywheel) and we hit it with 275 the second it leaves the line. The tune up is kinda rich so I would bet its more like 225 to be honest but still that is 870hp. it made 585 torque on the motor (its 14:1) so it is probably a solid 900 torque on the hit. The Duster motor has over 200 passes on it and is 17 years old.
 
Thanks man. They are a labor of love and a full time job all wrapped into one. I will tell you anything you want to know, so if have any questions fire away. The Dart is a twin turbo 344" stock stroke 4.070 bore 1970 block. It has a Eagle 4340 crank in it GRP aluminum rods, and Ross heavy as all get out very old turbo piston (custom made for me in 1997). I originally went turbo with it in the late 90's. The engine in that car was built in 2018 and has seen a lot of street miles and a lot of abusive passes. The key to this one and the other one is detonation. Detonation kills motors. Some tolerate it better than others. I am super super careful with the tune up and very conservative on timing (20 degrees total). Both the Duster and the Dart are 1970 blocks with excellent machine work, carefully blueprinted and assembled. No hard block, no girdle just the stock block. They do have 4 bolt splayed main caps but I truly think that is a detriment more than an advantage because the block has no meat for those 3/8 bolts on the outside main bolts. Plus they go in the cooling passage and for me I would rather run a stock cap. Which I did in the 90's. The Dart has made 1222 at the tire at 20 psi on the Dyno at the wheel. It made several passes there with no distress. The Duster made 645 on the Dyno (flywheel) and we hit it with 275 the second it leaves the line. The tune up is kinda rich so I would bet its more like 225 to be honest but still that is 870hp. it made 585 torque on the motor (its 14:1) so it is probably a solid 900 torque on the hit. The Duster motor has over 200 passes on it and is 17 years old.
What kind of timing are you running base on motor and n20 for the duster. I would have to think it’s harder on parts with high compression and n20 then the turbo
 
Thanks man. They are a labor of love and a full time job all wrapped into one. I will tell you anything you want to know, so if have any questions fire away. The Dart is a twin turbo 344" stock stroke 4.070 bore 1970 block. It has a Eagle 4340 crank in it GRP aluminum rods, and Ross heavy as all get out very old turbo piston (custom made for me in 1997). I originally went turbo with it in the late 90's. The engine in that car was built in 2018 and has seen a lot of street miles and a lot of abusive passes. The key to this one and the other one is detonation. Detonation kills motors. Some tolerate it better than others. I am super super careful with the tune up and very conservative on timing (20 degrees total). Both the Duster and the Dart are 1970 blocks with excellent machine work, carefully blueprinted and assembled. No hard block, no girdle just the stock block. They do have 4 bolt splayed main caps but I truly think that is a detriment more than an advantage because the block has no meat for those 3/8 bolts on the outside main bolts. Plus they go in the cooling passage and for me I would rather run a stock cap. Which I did in the 90's. The Dart has made 1222 at the tire at 20 psi on the Dyno at the wheel. It made several passes there with no distress. The Duster made 645 on the Dyno (flywheel) and we hit it with 275 the second it leaves the line. The tune up is kinda rich so I would bet its more like 225 to be honest but still that is 870hp. it made 585 torque on the motor (its 14:1) so it is probably a solid 900 torque on the hit. The Duster motor has over 200 passes on it and is 17 years old.
Thats awesome, thank you for sharing. Are you turning the timing down on the street with both to run pump gas, or driving them on race fuel? I think truly anyone pushing stock block setups has to be very wary of detonation,regardless of engine platform...sometimes less is more, and this is one of those times for sure. Is the duster also a stock stroke 70 block?
 
-
Back
Top