**600hp sbm block limit? Or is it bs!!**

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It was a Mopar,at the time of the original build,a f-steel crank was higher than nuts on a giraffe! These combos are very common now,so we built it back with a K-1.
 
Mad Dart said:
Well another "Myth" Busted that a 4" Cast Crank will break right away if you have over 500HP....... 1100 Passes, You got your $$ out of ANY ENGINE with that many runs!!. Well done! :cheers:

So which Cast Crank were you using??
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Yeah, man!

I went with forged internals to take the abuse of nitrous, but if I wanted to build a budget stroker, I wouldn't be afraid of using a cast crank now. LOL!
 
I don't think 600 is a limit.. our dragster has a 2 bolt main 340 block.. a 10.7.1 iron w2 headed motor on bottle and has gone 7.28 @ 188 in the 1/4.. with a 325 horse hit that's probably 850ish HP and it hasn't came apart yet.. not to worried about it either.. no hard block is in the block either..
 
rgreule said:
I don't think 600 is a limit.. our dragster has a 2 bolt main 340 block.. a 10.7.1 iron w2 headed motor on bottle and has gone 7.28 @ 188 in the 1/4.. with a 325 horse hit that's probably 850ish HP and it hasn't came apart yet.. not to worried about it either.. no hard block is in the block either..
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That is some crazy stuff right there..... Another Myth Busted. Think the weight may have something to do with it living??
 
rgreule said:
I don't think 600 is a limit.. our dragster has a 2 bolt main 340 block.. a 10.7.1 iron w2 headed motor on bottle and has gone 7.28 @ 188 in the 1/4.. with a 325 horse hit that's probably 850ish HP and it hasn't came apart yet.. not to worried about it either.. no hard block is in the block either..
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Impressive...how many runs have you made with that combo on the spray?
 
Rod bolts and cylinder wall failures are the common problem. Rod bolts every two years at least. Never use any block over a 340-4. Castings on higher number blocks are poor quality. 340-8's are junk . The highest I have gone on a stock block that survived for 15 pulls was 593 @ 7200 CHP. The reason it came apart was poor maching work from Ryan. @ Shady Dell Speed shop.
 
Oldmanmopar said:
Rod bolts and cylinder wall failures are the common problem. Rod bolts every two years at least. Never use any block over a 340-4. Castings on higher number blocks are poor quality. 340-8's are junk . The highest I have gone on a stock block that survived for 15 pulls was 593 @ 7200 CHP. The reason it came apart was poor maching work from Ryan. @ Shady Dell Speed shop.
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Oh boy you just slapped alot of these guys "HERO" right across the face! I myself don't doubt what you are saying for one second.
How long ago did this take place?
 
Couple of years back. The only machine they had was a belt drive lathe and a harbor freight drill press mounted on concrete blocks for a mill. I gave them a bridge port That was wore out when I replaced mine. I wouldn't let them work on a briggs. They lied to me about every thing and stole my parts. They ended up having to replace every part they stole or ruined. Not even the intake was usable when they were done. the only thing that wasn't destroyed was the cam and that wasn't the one I gave them. Ryans brother left the cat out of the bag when I took my motor back in pieces. They also ruined a R3 with there so called lifter valley program done at another shop. They didn't have the block position in the center and pushed the go button. They tried to blame the block but a Rottler machine proved them wrong. They ended up paying me for all the parts but I lost the labor and other parts I gave them for His Car. It cost them a lot.

I pity those who don't don't Know he could sell ice to an Eskimo. I will never go back and wouldn't recommend them to anyone. If My son ever sees him anywhere there will be trouble. He the biggest liar I ever met in the mopar community. He talks the talk but doesn't walk the walk. Ray barton told me to stay away from him but I didn't listen. Rays shop was for a year.

One thing good came out of this is I met Dave at HTA machine AKA "The Hemi Hunter" Top fuel machinest. He did all of our race motors to date. Everything is done in house nothing is subbed out. Zero tolerance on all his work. My son is now a machinist at his shop and works on the Top fuel car.
 
Oldmanmopar said:
Couple of years back. The only machine they had was a belt drive lathe and a harbor freight drill press mounted on concrete blocks for a mill. I gave them a bridge port That was wore out when I replaced mine. I wouldn't let them work on a briggs. They lied to me about every thing and stole my parts. They ended up having to replace every part they stole or ruined. Not even the intake was usable when they were done. the only thing that wasn't destroyed was the cam and that wasn't the one I gave them. Ryans brother left the cat out of the bag when I took my motor back in pieces. They also ruined a R3 with there so called lifter valley program done at another shop. They didn't have the block position in the center and pushed the go button. They tried to blame the block but a Rottler machine proved them wrong. They ended up paying me for all the parts but I lost the labor and other parts I gave them for His Car. It cost them a lot.

I pity those who don't don't Know he could sell ice to an Eskimo. I will never go back and wouldn't recommend them to anyone. If My son ever sees him anywhere there will be trouble. He the biggest liar I ever met in the mopar community. He talks the talk but doesn't walk the walk. Ray barton told me to stay away from him but I didn't listen. Rays shop was for a year.

One thing good came out of this is I met Dave at HTA machine AKA "The Hemi Hunter" Top fuel machinest. He did all of our race motors to date. Everything is done in house nothing is subbed out. Zero tolerance on all his work. My son is now a machinist at his shop and works on the Top fuel car.
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That was going to be my next question. Did they even use the parts that were supposed to go into the build. I think this happens a lot "Stealing Parts" not using the parts for the build or selling you something they don't even use. The shops don't think a customer will pull the motor apart and do an autopsy. I heard stuff about Shady Dell but here is an example from the true end user. All I can say is WOW!:wack:
 
451Cuda said:
Impressive...how many runs have you made with that combo on the spray?
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probably 300 or so passes.. with me in it it weighs just shy of 1500 lbs.. so that helps... lol

also have another setup in a 68 cuda..

stock 360 block with milidon splayed caps..
cast 4" eagle crank
iron w2s
12.7.1 probably makes just shy of 600.. runs in the low 10s good bracket car..

i was going to run a stock block in my turbo build but found a killer deal on a brand new r block so i decided to run it..
 
my stock block is still going ,its getting on 2 bolt no girdle 3/4 fill car is 3550 lbs race weight its had 100 bottles of gas threw her here is a vid
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8uNOKXklSUA"]9 92@135 full street trim - YouTube[/ame]
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YkwDDdKrRqg"]angree ap6 - YouTube[/ame]
 
ian said:
my stock block is still going ,its getting on 2 bolt no girdle 3/4 fill car is 3550 lbs race weight its had 100 bottles of gas threw her here is a vid
9 92@135 full street trim - YouTube
angree ap6 - YouTube
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Sweet, your car is cool as hell! I really like the back window shades!!

So Ian,

1) is yours a stroker combination?
2) How much NOS are you throwing at it.
3) Separate Fuel Pump for NOS?
4) What size rear tire and suspension set up?
 
Mad Dart said:
Sweet, your car is cool as hell! I really like the back window shades!!

So Ian,

1) is yours a stroker combination?
2) How much NOS are you throwing at it.
3) Separate Fuel Pump for NOS?
4) What size rear tire and suspension set up?
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man you got a list lol
1 ,408 4340 crank ,cheap h beams,probe flat top pistons 11.4 comp,1 3/4 pipes in to x pipe and twin 3 inch ,254 solid roller ,230 cnc indys and 1050 dom with powerglide 4.3 gears 4400 stall asp full exhaust tail pipes too 4 muffles to shut it up a bit 3550 lbs race weight 10.90 123 aspon pump fuel, she is slow but hit it with 180 shot and she comes alive ,rear tyres are mt 275 radial pro ,srange rear shocks cal trac mono leaf rear. i think i got it covered thanks mad dart
 
ian said:
man you got a list lol
1 ,408 4340 crank ,cheap h beams,probe flat top pistons 11.4 comp,1 3/4 pipes in to x pipe and twin 3 inch ,254 solid roller ,230 cnc indys and 1050 dom with powerglide 4.3 gears 4400 stall asp full exhaust tail pipes too 4 muffles to shut it up a bit 3550 lbs race weight 10.90 123 aspon pump fuel, she is slow but hit it with 180 shot and she comes alive ,rear tyres are mt 275 radial pro ,srange rear shocks cal trac mono leaf rear. i think i got it covered thanks mad dart
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Inquiring minds want to know!! LOL

1) So you run 1 fuel pump for the motor and NOS? Just curious.......

Thanks for all the information. Oh and your car is nowhere near slow on the motor with full exhaust. It runs HARD!
 
Mad Dart said:
Inquiring minds want to know!! LOL

1) So you run 1 fuel pump for the motor and NOS? Just curious.......

Thanks for all the information. Oh and your car is nowhere near slow on the motor with full exhaust. It runs HARD!
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thanks mad dart,i run one aeromotive a 2000 pump 1/2 line and i spike the fuel on the gas for safety ,always willing to help mad dart :smile::burnout:
 
Just to continue the thread that 600 hp is not the limit....

It's gone 10.60s @ 133.65 mph weighing 4200#. (I apologize - sorry - not an A-Body but a Dakota) Depending on which calculator you use, that should be in the 700hp range and it's been doing so for years.

2-bolt '99 Magnum 360 block
Factory main bolts
Scat forged crank
Scat H-Beams
Probe Forged Pistons
All internally balanced
Iron Ram EQ heads
Factory head bolts
Cometics
2bbl M1 intake
Single 76mm Turbo
18 psi of boost
 
Welcome Duner. Don't worry, (most) guys here don't care if you have an A body or not.
 
Nice Mad Duner. In a Dakota no less. UOP is right, we even have a few Chevy guys running around here. At least there not trouble makers. There actually quite cool. We all know it's about the fun of it all.

Besides, 600 HP is known not to be the limit but more of a general guide line and of course, what the heck your doing with it........ and how much .... LOL!
 
We'll I'm over the limit too fellas. 410 stroker all forged , solid roller 242@50 .634 lift at the valve Indy RHS Heads by Brian at IMM,, Smacking it with a 180 hit right now so that's close to 700HP if not over it. I bet the Torque is the same if not more on the Hit. I beat the **** out of it too. Let's see how long it lives. I'm putting a cage "Tubing is ordered" new race seats upholstered to match for the bling.... & 5 point harnesses in the car. I will be installing a second NOS system afterward...most likely 2nd stage will be a 300 Hit or so.... I'll sneak up on it.
Fck the police!:burnout:
 
Mad Dart said:
We'll I'm over the limit too fellas. 410 stroker all forged , solid roller 242@50 .634 lift at the valve Indy RHS Heads by Brian at IMM,, Smacking it with a 180 hit right now so that's close to 700HP if not over it. I bet the Torque is the same if not more on the Hit. I beat the **** out of it too. Let's see how long it lives. I'm putting a cage "Tubing is ordered" new race seats upholstered to match for the bling.... & 5 point harnesses in the car. I will be installing a second NOS system afterward...most likely 2nd stage will be a 300 Hit or so.... I'll sneak up on it.
Fck the police!:burnout:
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do you actually race the scamp or just the light to light b.s.?
 
mshred said:
do you actually race the scamp or just the light to light b.s.?
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I actually drive my cars, every one of them. Since Friday I have burned 38 Gallons of fuel and went through 2 NOS Bottles. How about you? All my cars are Dual Purpose. But I am getting it ready for the Track since you asked.

You guys that track race crack me up, sitting in your garages starring at your cars working on them and go to the track 5 times a year calling yourself's Ricky Racer…..that gig is NOT for me. I will drive as much as I can and when it is ready it will go to the track as much or more than most. No sense in letting it ROT starring at it wishing you had enough $$ to get the parts to put it back together and get to the track with your 5 gallon jug of fuel, that is if you even have enough $ left over to buy it. Now that is BS to me! We can agree to disagree. :D
 
Mad Dart said:
I actually drive my cars, every one of them. Since Friday I have burned 38 Gallons of fuel and went through 2 NOS Bottles. How about you? All my cars are Dual Purpose. But I am getting it ready for the Track since you asked.

You guys that track race crack me up, sitting in your garages starring at your cars working on them and go to the track 5 times a year calling yourself's Ricky Racer…..that gig is NOT for me. I will drive as much as I can and when it is ready it will go to the track as much or more than most. No sense in letting it ROT starring at it wishing you had enough $$ to get the parts to put it back together and get to the track with your 5 gallon jug of fuel, that is if you even have enough $ left over to buy it. Now that is BS to me! We can agree to disagree. :D
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woah, talk about taking a question WAY outta context...but thanks for your assumptions about my own car and others

Wanna pound your chest some more while your at it? because that cracked me up LOL
 
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