61 V-200 Alternator Upgrade Questions

[Just-a-car]

Hello.
Newbie to this forum and A body MoPars, thus this will very likely read as a dumb and dumber query to the cognoscenti here.
However the experienced advice is where we all learn (or perhaps 'learn to learn with and from'), therefore I will hazard my ignorant question.
Are there one wire internal regulator alternators (single pulley) available off the shelf to bolt onto the slant 6 170? Where to source?
Of course one realizes there will be wiring modifications at the old regulator harness stubs and perhaps a DA plug wiring addition.
Yes?
Anything else such as surge protection for the instruments (mostly not working now)?
This will be a daily driver grocery getter when put it back on the road this Spring.
Likely many more questions as I learn about our new car.
Thank you in advance.
Glad to be here

 

[slantsixdan]

Hello, there. Read this and this and this and this. Also, more generally, this.

(Er-ruhh…what's the reason for upgrading the alternator at this get-it-running-and-driving stage of things?)

 

[Just-a-car]

slantsixdan,
Thank you.
The car is drive-able now (just bought it from a consignment dealer in New York ostensibly listed as genuine 15,000 mile car. Well, we both know that was a hoax however still a good clean car.
The alternator bearings are shot. Plus I detest solenoid type voltage regulators.
As to the HEI ignition articles: I have a new MSD 6 AL itching for a new home (course I'll have to remove it from the aborted never run Studebaker 1950 Champion project first).
Though I might go the HEI route.

 

[slantsixdan]

The alternator bearings are shot.

Fair 'nuff.

Plus I detest solenoid type voltage regulators.

I'm not a fan, either. My favourite drop-in solid-state regulator for the pre-'70 systems is this one. It looks a little different, but fits right in and hooks right up.

I have a new MSD 6 AL

Then make sure you have a spare one, too…! (MSD quality/dependability dropped hard a couple decades ago; I'm sure it had nothing whatever to do with them moving production to China, that must have been just complete coincidence).

Though I might go the HEI route.

Repair parts small enough to throw in the glovebox + available anywhere you might drive…!

 

[Just-a-car]

Fair 'nuff.



I'm not a fan, either. My favourite drop-in solid-state regulator for the pre-'70 systems is this one. It looks a little different, but fits right in and hooks right up.



Then make sure you have a spare one, too…! (MSD quality/dependability dropped hard a couple decades ago; I'm sure it had nothing whatever to do with them moving production to China, that must have been just complete coincidence).



Repair parts small enough to throw in the glovebox + available anywhere you might drive…!

YES!!! I had forgotten about the VR-128 regulator.
I'm fairly sure there are a couple new in the boxes on the shelf in the hangar where my old hands still wrench bend sometimes.

MSD: Also sadly so very true, but of course our mfg. management made the decisions based on kick back bonus schemes and management books written by diarrhea brain MBA folk, or finance bank wankers!

Alright then HEI it will be for me.
A very BIG Thank you!

 

[slantsixdan]

Glad to help out. Don't recall if it's linked from the HEI article (I'll have to go look) but if not, it's worth your time and effort, when you' put a high-zoot ignition in, to read and follow this long thread.

 

[Just-a-car]

Glad to help out. Don't recall if it's linked from the HEI article (I'll have to go look) but if not, it's worth your time and effort, when you' put a high-zoot ignition in, to read and follow this long thread.

Indeed poor machining concentricity mucks the works in compounding ways.
Thank you, again.

 

[cudamark]

I'm sure I'm probably repeating something /6Dan has posted, but, if not, here is my $.02. for a stock '62 street car that doesn't have any extra current draw (ie. high power sound system stuff, or other power eaters) I'd stay pretty close to stock on the alternator output rating. The stock wiring harness that year wasn't designed for heavy electrical use. The stock alt with a solid state regulator would work just fine and not need any other mods. For heavy use, there are many other upgrades needed.....more than I have time to outline here.

 

[Mattax]

Bearings not too difficult to change, but does require access to a arbor or hydraulic press, a pulley puller, and a bit of care.
Brushes are easy peasy to replace.
Decent quality brushes and bearings are still readily available.

 

[Just-a-car]

Very true

Bearings not too difficult to change, but does require access to a arbor or hydraulic press, a pulley puller, and a bit of care.
Brushes are easy peasy to replace.
Decent quality brushes and bearings are still readily available.

Thank you.

 

[Mattax]

Pulley removers and brushes

Alternator repair, a little show and tell.

I finally got around to fixing a squareback alternator I removed from the Barracuda a year and half ago. It came out because its output was weak. Thought I'd share some of the repairs here. Its not meant to be a complete 'how to.' First thing was to remove the pulley. This had nothing...

www.forabodiesonly.com

pics of pulley side bearing and needle bearing here

Changing a pulley on an alternator.

I am helping a buddy do an A/C conversion in his car, it currently has a single groove pulley on a good alternator. I have some dual groove pulleys here. What is the process to change pulleys?

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