gsoco
gsoco
OK. Thanks to you all, most of my electrical issues are over! However, dash / instrument cluster lights still don't work. All other accessories and lights work except gas gauge (pegs low)....Any more ideas? Thanks!
Thanks...I'll have a look tomorrow when it cools off!! Cheers!dash lights could be supply, control and or ground....supply, see if you have 12 volts out of the headlight switch at the rheostat part of the switch...(the resistor that controls brilliance) if voltage is there and its output is changed in varied voltage by turning the rheostat...then check supply to the instrument lights....this is usually an orange wire.....if the voltage is going to the lamps via the orange wire and the bulb holders...then you may have a grounding issue with the cluster itself not going back to ground through the body. Easy checks again with the VOM both voltage and grounding paths.
if gas gauge is pegged low...sounds like an open circuit ie a broken wire to the tank sender, disconnected at the sender or the sender resistor is open or tank itself is not properly grounded to the car. Easy to test this with a VOM. If your temp gauge is working, it is powered by the same CVR thus states supply and control voltage is operating. So with this in mind, scenario two could be open between CVR and gauge, verify that the input to the gauge from the CVR is a pulsed voltage being applied.
If the wire's got continuity from the fuel gauge sender at the tank all the way up to the dashboard, then here's a list of parts you might need to fix it:
Sender float: Ford P/N COAZ-9202-B (N/A from Chrysler any more; this one fits and works perfectly)
Sender Strainer "sock": GM P/N 5651 705 (factory strainer at the end of the sender's fuel pickup pipe is probably clogged, degraded or missing -- here again, N/A from Chrysler and this one fits/works)
Gasket: Chrysler P/N 6031 475 (replace every time you remove the sender)
Sender grounding clip: Chrysler P/N 2258 862 (necessary or you won't get a gauge reading)
If none of that fixes it, you're down to needing a new sender and/or a new gauge.
Dashboard lights: make sure it's not just all the bulbs being burned out; if that's not it, follow the advice already given in this thread. Corrosion/dirt/failure in the dashboard light rheostat built into the headlamp switch is a common cause of no dash lights.
If the wire's got continuity from the fuel gauge sender at the tank all the way up to the dashboard, then here's a list of parts you might need to fix it:
Sender float: Ford P/N COAZ-9202-B (N/A from Chrysler any more; this one fits and works perfectly)
Sender Strainer "sock": GM P/N 5651 705 (factory strainer at the end of the sender's fuel pickup pipe is probably clogged, degraded or missing -- here again, N/A from Chrysler and this one fits/works)
Gasket: Chrysler P/N 6031 475 (replace every time you remove the sender)
Sender grounding clip: Chrysler P/N 2258 862 (necessary or you won't get a gauge reading)
If none of that fixes it, you're down to needing a new sender and/or a new gauge.
Dashboard lights: make sure it's not just all the bulbs being burned out; if that's not it, follow the advice already given in this thread. Corrosion/dirt/failure in the dashboard light rheostat built into the headlamp switch is a common cause of no dash lights.
Dash lights work... The only lights not working are the three that plug into the printed circuit board.
So far:
Replaced the board, tested the lamps, tested the plug in fixtures, tested fuses...so have determined there is just no power to the printed circuit for these lights
CVR??? Not familiar with the term...thanks.if gas gauge is pegged low...sounds like an open circuit ie a broken wire to the tank sender, disconnected at the sender or the sender resistor is open or tank itself is not properly grounded to the car. Easy to test this with a VOM. If your temp gauge is working, it is powered by the same CVR thus states supply and control voltage is operating. So with this in mind, scenario two could be open between CVR and gauge, verify that the input to the gauge from the CVR is a pulsed voltage being applied.
Thanks. The float is new...I was told by Slantsixdan that the voltage limiter was in the temp (center) gauge...and looking at the printed circuit board (which also is NOS) it appears to make sense...I am seriously considering adapting a set of Bosch gauges...Gauges are supplied by a mechanical voltage limiter ( I haven't seen it called "CVR" either ). Your limiter is likely inside your fuel gauge. If temp and fuel gauges work, the limiter is working. Most common cause of constant low fuel gauge is hole in the senders float.
Yes some early models did have the limiter inside the temp gauge. I never know what models changed when. Simple way to tell,,, basic gauge has 2 contact posts. A gauge with more than 2 posts has something more inside. If the mechanical limiter fails, substituting a solid state instrument voltage regulator is fairly simple but that doesn't fix faulty gauges. A fuel gauge lives a hard life compared to other gauges. That needle would race to some position at every switch cycle. Fuller the tank the hotter the gauge. I've renewed a dang bunch of these fuel gauges that were totally toasted inside. About half as many oil gauges and a lesser number of temp gauges.Thanks. The float is new...I was told by Slantsixdan that the voltage limiter was in the temp (center) gauge...and looking at the printed circuit board (which also is NOS) it appears to make sense...I am seriously considering adapting a set of Bosch gauges...