'63 Dart front brake drum size

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I did mine so I could use the scarebird disc brake conversion yeah there is enough room to do the 5 on 4.5 and still have good "meat" left. It's better to use a screw in studs for that reason.

here they are with the SCREW in studs and a rim mounted to check for clearance they(screw in studs) give you more meat instead of drilling out bigger 5/8th to 3/4 to fit in normal press in studs. I did 2 inch long 1/2-20 threaded in studs and they worked great the 3 inch screw in studs wouldn't allow me to use the lug nuts I wanted.
View attachment !!rear channel piece.jpg
hub before drilling and testing fit for scarebird conversion
View attachment DSCF2791.JPG
I had to back drill the studs in the hubs. just in case I ever wanted to go back to 5 on 4 bolt pattern. that way I didn't ruin the hub.
View attachment DSCF2793.JPG

the rears are a bit sketchy since you have to weld a plug into the hole in the axle so you can get the 5 on 4.5 patter to be far enough away from the original holes to leave you with enough meat.

It cost me 40 for the fronts to be drilled and 55 for the rears to be plug welded and re drilled. Well worth it in my opinion and as soon as I can find an 8 1/4 BBP rear I'll switch it over,but until then I'll use my little 7 1/4 with my /6.
 
Yeah, I understand the screw in studs making sense.....soooo you had the 9 inch front drums on your '66? Or maybe you have 10's but the hub part is the same?

On the rear axles, because you need to weld a hole, you pulled the axles out? Are they c-clipped in like GM or do they have a retainer at the outside like Ford? Or? This car is just a grocery getting, cruise Central type of car. Stock slant 6 etc.... I'm just looking to put 15 inch wheels (Ford/Mopar) on it and call it done!
 
Jeem Smeeth said:
Yeah, I understand the screw in studs making sense.....soooo you had the 9 inch front drums on your '66? Or maybe you have 10's but the hub part is the same?

On the rear axles, because you need to weld a hole, you pulled the axles out? Are they c-clipped in like GM or do they have a retainer at the outside like Ford? Or? This car is just a grocery getting, cruise Central type of car. Stock slant 6 etc.... I'm just looking to put 15 inch wheels (Ford/Mopar) on it and call it done!
Click to expand...


I had/have 9" hubs on this dart . on the rear axles for a 7 /14 (retainer style, using the hole that you'll weld up later if your going to go 5 on 4.5) you just undo the 4 nuts in the flange using a ratchet,extension and socket. then yank the axles out. it might be tough to get them out I had one that just didn't want to come out and had to rent from an axle puller.(autozone ,free since you get your deposit back) took them down to get new bearings and seals put on after they redrilled the bolt pattern to 5 on 4.5 (remember drums gotta be drilled too:banghead:, yeah there was a second trip for me) when I put them back in I didn't have the brake shoes on and just used a wrench to tighten the nuts back up, then the shoes.

I have 14's on mine right now but plan on some 15's in the future
that is if i can ever get done with it
View attachment WP_20130730_003.jpg
 
66Dvert said:
I did mine so I could use the scarebird disc brake conversion yeah there is enough room to do the 5 on 4.5 and still have good "meat" left. It's better to use a screw in studs for that reason.

here they are with the SCREW in studs and a rim mounted to check for clearance they(screw in studs) give you more meat instead of drilling out bigger 5/8th to 3/4 to fit in normal press in studs. I did 2 inch long 1/2-20 threaded in studs and they worked great the 3 inch screw in studs wouldn't allow me to use the lug nuts I wanted.


It cost me 40 for the fronts to be drilled and 55 for the rears to be plug welded and re drilled. Well worth it in my opinion and as soon as I can find an 8 1/4 BBP rear I'll switch it over,but until then I'll use my little 7 1/4 with my /6.
Click to expand...

Do you have pictures of the just the hubs with the new studs in place without the wheel installed?
 
66Dvert said:
I had/have 9" hubs on this dart . on the rear axles for a 7 /14 (retainer style, using the hole that you'll weld up later if your going to go 5 on 4.5) you just undo the 4 nuts in the flange using a ratchet,extension and socket. then yank the axles out. it might be tough to get them out I had one that just didn't want to come out and had to rent from an axle puller.(autozone ,free since you get your deposit back) took them down to get new bearings and seals put on after they redrilled the bolt pattern to 5 on 4.5 (remember drums gotta be drilled too:banghead:, yeah there was a second trip for me) when I put them back in I didn't have the brake shoes on and just used a wrench to tighten the nuts back up, then the shoes.

I have 14's on mine right now but plan on some 15's in the future
that is if i can ever get done with it
View attachment 1714657468
Click to expand...

Thanks so much for taking the time to answer my questions. Cool to hear the rear axles come out in this manner! Wonder if the Ford trick would work with stubborn Dodge axles (flip the drum around and attach with a few lug nuts and use the drum as a slide hammer).
Fronts should be easy enough to have done at the machine shop as well as the rear.....cool! I've read and re-read this message board for these answers, maybe I should have asked SPECIFICALLY what I wanted to know a long time ago! Thanks again.
 
Oklacarcollecto said:
Do you have pictures of the just the hubs with the new studs in place without the wheel installed?
Click to expand...


ok it's tomorrow and I got pic's (not great one but pic's just the same)
it doesn't take long ot rust bare metal down here in florida :banghead: these are brand new parts too!


all together
View attachment WP_20130917_001.jpg


rotor off and hub only
View attachment WP_20130917_002.jpg


close up of the meat left.
View attachment WP_20130917_003.jpg


full view
View attachment WP_20130917_004.jpg


back side showing the distance I have from the bolt heads.
View attachment WP_20130917_005.jpg

and last the adapter ring that centers the rotors on the hub.
View attachment WP_20130917_008.jpg


I just replaced a hub for my brother in law on his 2005 cavalier and he has even LESS metal on his hub than I do, thats a front wheel drive unit that takes even more of a beating than mine will so I figure I'm pretty safe since his rotors lootk to be about 3/8th of an inch thick and the drums (original)looked to be 1/8th thick at the hub and the (new) rotors are about 1/2 that should help stop them from flexing too!
 
Jeem Smeeth said:
Thanks, pictures are great. Just to clarify....you used 2" long 1/2"-20 screw in studs for the front as well as the rear?
Click to expand...

yup 2 inch 1/2-20 from summit

I used the lock washers on the front's(blue loctite) but could use them due to no space on the rears, they hit the brake cylinder when rotating them. (I used red loctite on them)
 
66Dvert said:
ok it's tomorrow and I got pic's (not great one but pic's just the same)
it doesn't take long ot rust bare metal down here in florida :banghead: these are brand new parts too!


all together
View attachment 1714657684


rotor off and hub only
View attachment 1714657685


close up of the meat left.
View attachment 1714657686


full view
View attachment 1714657687


back side showing the distance I have from the bolt heads.
View attachment 1714657688

and last the adapter ring that centers the rotors on the hub.
View attachment 1714657690


I just replaced a hub for my brother in law on his 2005 cavalier and he has even LESS metal on his hub than I do, thats a front wheel drive unit that takes even more of a beating than mine will so I figure I'm pretty safe since his rotors lootk to be about 3/8th of an inch thick and the drums (original)looked to be 1/8th thick at the hub and the (new) rotors are about 1/2 that should help stop them from flexing too!
Click to expand...

Thanks for sharing. That has more meat on it than the other modifications I have seen done. Yours looks 10 times better too.

I have always heard about rust problems down there but I never dreamed it would be that bad so quick.
 
Oklacarcollecto said:
Thanks for sharing. That has more meat on it than the other modifications I have seen done. Yours looks 10 times better too.

I have always heard about rust problems down there but I never dreamed it would be that bad so quick.
Click to expand...


Well they (the kember and rotors) were outside for about 2 weeks while I was getting everything else ready to put them on but they were covered up good with a waterproof canvas tarp. it's the humidity that does it AND my dumbA$$ forgetting to paint them. I was just so excited to get the car back on wheels that I plumb forgot to paint them. When I was working on the body I'd have to shoot epoxy or primer ASAP or I'd get flash rush in a day and yes that was in a closed up garage.

I'll most likely soak the hubs and rotors in evaporust to clean them up and paint what ever needs to be covered after that. I had the machinist play with the spacing to get the best looking setup he could, worked pretty good if I do say so. The rear axles had the access hole plugwelded and then the pattern was done on those too! There is even more metal left on those since the axle flange is slightly larger. I'm running a /6 so I shouldn't have a problem with the rear end,but just in case I'll be looking for a BBP 8 1/4 later on after I get the turbo engine done, but that WILL take a while/money.
 
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