Jeem Smeeth
Member
What years came with the 9 inch front drums I hear about? Lemmee guess....the 1963 model?
Yeah, I understand the screw in studs making sense.....soooo you had the 9 inch front drums on your '66? Or maybe you have 10's but the hub part is the same?
On the rear axles, because you need to weld a hole, you pulled the axles out? Are they c-clipped in like GM or do they have a retainer at the outside like Ford? Or? This car is just a grocery getting, cruise Central type of car. Stock slant 6 etc.... I'm just looking to put 15 inch wheels (Ford/Mopar) on it and call it done!
I did mine so I could use the scarebird disc brake conversion yeah there is enough room to do the 5 on 4.5 and still have good "meat" left. It's better to use a screw in studs for that reason.
here they are with the SCREW in studs and a rim mounted to check for clearance they(screw in studs) give you more meat instead of drilling out bigger 5/8th to 3/4 to fit in normal press in studs. I did 2 inch long 1/2-20 threaded in studs and they worked great the 3 inch screw in studs wouldn't allow me to use the lug nuts I wanted.
It cost me 40 for the fronts to be drilled and 55 for the rears to be plug welded and re drilled. Well worth it in my opinion and as soon as I can find an 8 1/4 BBP rear I'll switch it over,but until then I'll use my little 7 1/4 with my /6.
I had/have 9" hubs on this dart . on the rear axles for a 7 /14 (retainer style, using the hole that you'll weld up later if your going to go 5 on 4.5) you just undo the 4 nuts in the flange using a ratchet,extension and socket. then yank the axles out. it might be tough to get them out I had one that just didn't want to come out and had to rent from an axle puller.(autozone ,free since you get your deposit back) took them down to get new bearings and seals put on after they redrilled the bolt pattern to 5 on 4.5 (remember drums gotta be drilled too:banghead:, yeah there was a second trip for me) when I put them back in I didn't have the brake shoes on and just used a wrench to tighten the nuts back up, then the shoes.
I have 14's on mine right now but plan on some 15's in the future
that is if i can ever get done with it
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I'll have to go out to the garage and take it apart so I can take pic's for ya. gimme a day or so.Do you have pictures of the just the hubs with the new studs in place without the wheel installed?
Do you have pictures of the just the hubs with the new studs in place without the wheel installed?
Thanks, pictures are great. Just to clarify....you used 2" long 1/2"-20 screw in studs for the front as well as the rear?
ok it's tomorrow and I got pic's (not great one but pic's just the same)
it doesn't take long ot rust bare metal down here in florida :banghead: these are brand new parts too!
all together
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rotor off and hub only
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close up of the meat left.
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full view
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back side showing the distance I have from the bolt heads.
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and last the adapter ring that centers the rotors on the hub.
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I just replaced a hub for my brother in law on his 2005 cavalier and he has even LESS metal on his hub than I do, thats a front wheel drive unit that takes even more of a beating than mine will so I figure I'm pretty safe since his rotors lootk to be about 3/8th of an inch thick and the drums (original)looked to be 1/8th thick at the hub and the (new) rotors are about 1/2 that should help stop them from flexing too!
Thanks for sharing. That has more meat on it than the other modifications I have seen done. Yours looks 10 times better too.
I have always heard about rust problems down there but I never dreamed it would be that bad so quick.