63 Dodge Dart, now let me see;)

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Hey Glen~~ Though that's a ways down the road< I'm always looking on FB marketplace. Black and red ,or just black would be ok, and totally red, not sure. Always open for suggestions :lol:

 
Well with the green exterior one would think something to complement be in order like black ,white , green , tan or a light blue or a combo of some colors like the inserts .

Way back in 2010 while cruising the back roads in Oregon I spotted this '64 Dart 270 it was the same color as my '64 Dart GT but this one has the same wheels as yours makes for a good looking combo .

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Hey Glen~~ Though that's a ways down the road< I'm always looking on FB marketplace. Black and red ,or just black would be ok, and totally red, not sure. Always open for suggestions :lol:

I wouldn't go red interior with green exterior. Just my humble opinion. I was kinda digging the leggy look, myself. lol
 
Totally enjoying your build thread.

I am up to Post# 601 now (page 25)

Reads like a good TV Classic Car Rebuilding reality show.

Thanks for taking the time to put all the steps up online.

Lots of good info here that you are sharing with others, and the realities of life that go along with it.


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George. That is an awesome compliment, thank you so much :thankyou: :thankyou:

Totally enjoying your build thread.
I am up to Post# 601 now (page 25)

Reads like a good TV Classic Car Rebuilding reality show.

Thanks for taking the time to put all the steps up online.

Lots of good info here that you are sharing with others, and the realities of life that go along with it.


☆☆☆☆☆
 
I was just watching Home Town Take Over and the soda shop color is very close to your exterior color and they are also adding pops of red .
With your choice of black seats you could add red piping to them.
Also mask the lower part of the existing red of the on the side panels and paint the upper part black it would give you a red stripe between the upper and door cards in black . Perhaps red armrest pads and chrome support's . The lower part of the dash could also be red .
Of course you may want to keep it under stated .
Oh how about a white headliner ? With red sun visors
 
Glen and George, I'll respond to ya'lls post here in a bit~

First off, ran the little Slant for about 5 minutes and sounded good, didn't want to get it blazingly hot.
with the combination of my overhead crane and Maxjax lift and Gary's help, the engine went in with just a little fuss (a minor scratch on the firewall, darned wiper motor bump!). Once in, worked the maxjax and crane together to get the dart up high enough to secure the transmission crossmember. for some reason I'm a little stressed by the operation, but I'm pleased! I hope the air cleaner clears the hood! This time also I have the correct motor mounts which set the whole shebang level.
I'm going to kick back for a few minutes then come back
:lol:

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Say @Dne007
Was wondering if you have noticed the temperature of the PerTronix Flame Thrower III ignition coil that is being triggered off the mopar/hei distributor. Feeding the coil with full 12 volts and no ballast resistor.

Just wondering the to the touch coil temperature of that setup after the engine has run for 5 minutes?

Thanks


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Hm, I haven't experienced it, but several months from now when it's running again, I'll pay attention. I haven't mounted the coil anywhere yet, amazing not much room on the drivers side down below, BTW those seats you posted are to die for!!! :thumbsup:

Say @Dne007
Was wondering if you have noticed the temperature of the PerTronix Flame Thrower III ignition coil that is being triggered off the mopar/hei distributor. Feeding the coil with full 12 volts and no ballast resistor.

Just wondering the to the touch coil temperature of that setup after the engine has run for 5 minutes?

Thanks


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Hm, I haven't experienced it, but several months from now when it's running again, I'll pay attention. I haven't mounted the coil anywhere yet, amazing not much room on the drivers side down below, BTW those seats you posted are to die for!!! :thumbsup:

I have Seat Sewing experience, so that helps to know how they are put together and fabric selection to coordinate that all together for the desired outcome.

I sewed up a new set of seat covers up in MN just before I came down to FL this Winter season for the truck here, had patterns I took off the original seat to work from.

New 89 Truck Seat.jpg


Brought the Consew sewing machine down with me to do the final fitting of the Boxing around the bottom. It is close now, but want it to fit right. A good fit is 90% of making the upholstery job look good.

Factory colors and layout patterns, 1989 D100 Truck. Got a big hole where the driver sits now, makes it hard to "Slide" in there. New cover will be sweet. Getting her tuned in, doing rear brakes today.

Rear Brakes 001.jpg


Out in the "Sun" shop here, at least I have a cement slab.



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The seat looks great~ I hope I can come up with something, I have a decent sewing machine, just have to give it a go;)


I have Seat Sewing experience, so that helps to know how they are put together and fabric selection to coordinate that all together for the desired outcome.

I sewed up a new set of seat covers up in MN just before I came down to FL this Winter season for the truck here, had patterns I took off the original seat to work from.

View attachment 1716377497

Brought the Consew sewing machine down with me to do the final fitting of the Boxing around the bottom. It is close now, but want it to fit right. A good fit is 90% of making the upholstery job look good.

Factory colors and layout patterns, 1989 D100 Truck. Got a big hole where the driver sits now, makes it hard to "Slide" in there. New cover will be sweet. Getting her tuned in, doing rear brakes today.

View attachment 1716377500

Out in the "Sun" shop here, at least I have a cement slab.



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The seat looks great~ I hope I can come up with something, I have a decent sewing machine, just have to give it a go;)

If your sewing machine is what they call a Walking Foot, industrial machine for sewing automotive upholstery, and has a reverse then you are good to go.

Here is the Consew machine, patiently waiting to get into the mount and get into the game.

Consew 001.jpg


Here is the Walking Foot with the welt cord sewing attachment. I use the welt cord foot for all of the automotive seat sewing. Straight Stitch, making up Welt Cords and then going back and sewing them into the seat covers, and Top Stitching which is very strong and gives a classy finished look when the sewing comes out straight and smooth.


Consew Walking Foot 002.jpg



Here is an example of the top stitching where the lower boxing joins the upper seat patterned panel. Also the last main section panel is top stitched in too.

Tep Stitching Example.png


Now back to Dne007's 1963 Dart Build...


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oh, I enjoy others things that they do on my builds, we we are family :thumbsup:
I don't know the name of my machine, but it's a walking foot and works pretty good.
If your sewing machine is what they call a Walking Foot, industrial machine for sewing automotive upholstery, and has a reverse then you are good to go.

Here is the Consew machine, patiently waiting to get into the mount and get into the game.

View attachment 1716377578

Here is the Walking Foot with the welt cord sewing attatchment. Use the welt cord foot for all of the automotive seat sewing. Straight Stitch, making up Welt Cords and then going back and sewing them into the seat covers, and Top Stitching which is very strong and gives a classy finished look when the sewing comes out straight and smooth.


View attachment 1716377581


Here is an example of the top stitching where the lower boxing joins the upper seat patterned panel. Also the last main section panel is top stitched in too.

View attachment 1716377582

Now back to Dne007's 1963 Dart Build...


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:thumbsup:
 
oh, I enjoy others things that they do on my builds, we we are family :thumbsup:
I don't know the name of my machine, but it's a walking foot and works pretty good.


:thumbsup:

Good Chance your machine is a "Juki", another good Japanese made machine. Think PiFF (?) made some good walking foots too. Many years ago Consew bought out the Singer Sewing Machine Company, they slapped on the Consew logo and the rest is history. All top of the line stuff.

Just like the mopars, these top notch sewing machines hold their value over time. Won't loose any money on them as long as they are well cared for. Work horses of the industry.


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Good Chance your machine is a "Juki", another good Japanese made machine. Think PiFF (?) made some good walking foots too. Many years ago Consew bought out the Singer Sewing Machine Company, they slapped on the Consew logo and the rest is history. All top of the line stuff.

Just like the mopars, these top notch sewing machines hold their value over time. Won't loose any money on them as long as they are well cared for. Work horses of the industry.


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I think you're trying to refer to "Pfaff" maybe?
 
Hi my fellow moparians :lol:

I was test fitting my radiator, looks like I'll be going with manual steering for sure, the p/s pulley wouldn't work, or I couldn't make it work. IT's going to take a 1/2" spacer. Are all spacers to fit the bolt pattern on the pump? Most of them also come with fine thread bolts which is no biggy. Oh, I also tried the trick where you pull the engine/trans back, didn't move any and the bolts are loose. I'm wanting to fabricate a fan shroud, I want air pulled through that radiator and I mean suck it through like a vacuum cleaner! The fan that is shown it what was on the '75 Plymouth duster, mine had the little four blade. or any suggestions on a lighter fan?

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I might have a spacer, and the coil should mount on the pass side of the block
Hm, I haven't experienced it, but several months from now when it's running again, I'll pay attention. I haven't mounted the coil anywhere yet, amazing not much room on the drivers side down below, BTW those seats you posted are to die for!!! :thumbsup:
It goes on the front side of the block

1742046248579.png
 
Hi my fellow moparians :lol:

I was test fitting my radiator, looks like I'll be going with manual steering for sure, the p/s pulley wouldn't work, or I couldn't make it work. IT's going to take a 1/2" spacer. Are all spacers to fit the bolt pattern on the pump? Most of them also come with fine thread bolts which is no biggy. Oh, I also tried the trick where you pull the engine/trans back, didn't move any and the bolts are loose. I'm wanting to fabricate a fan shroud, I want air pulled through that radiator and I mean suck it through like a vacuum cleaner! The fan that is shown it what was on the '75 Plymouth duster, mine had the little four blade. or any suggestions on a lighter fan?

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You are using the wrong setup and pulleys for power steering. The slant 6 uses that very front pulley for power steering and a separate bolt on A/C pulley that bolts BEHIND the harmonic balancer for the A/C. That's why you're having trouble. Also, the factory position for the A/C compressor is more on top, a little to the driver's side. So you're gonna have to do some changing or fanagling to run Power steering on that. OR put everything in the factory locations.
 
PS and AC!? That might be a little too "sissy fired!" Just kidding!! It gets hot down there in Houston!!! We are a couple hours North and it is cool here...always!!! :thumbsup:
 
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