Both sides removed ...waiting on a couple of parts and will build up the replacement K-member with bushings, motor mounts, steering box, pitman and idler arm for install.
64 (Canadian) Valiant Signet (aka Dart GT) front disc brake conversion
- Thread starter WV64Signet
- Start date
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Replacement LCAs cleaned up. Next will be a coat of Eastwood rust converter and encapsulator. Likewise the replacement strut rods. Thinking I'll pull the upper A to do likewise. I'll be replacing those bushings anyhow and it'll make it easier to finish cleaning up and paint the wheel wells and frame.
Before picture. After coming later
Before picture. After coming later
New wheel cylinders installed in rear drums and a broken adjustment cable replaced on the left side. Touched up the drums as well
Looking good so far! Perfection takes time!
Finally got the damaged K-frame out so I can get back at the suspension rebuild. That was a bigger hiccup than I thought but after further inspection of the damage I'm glad I went there. Forensics on the car's past is kinda interesting. It was damaged in the front left at some point a while ago based on the patter of things.
Next step is suspension bushings in the A and LCA's. Slow and easy wins the race.
Next step is suspension bushings in the A and LCA's. Slow and easy wins the race.
LCA bushings are out
Closer...
Been a bit since I posted here. Progress continues but so does mission creep as I peel back one layer and find another thing to hit. About to start the Inline Tubing brake line install as the underbody and front end rebuild is getting close to done.
The master cylinder that came with the kit is a dual pot but by convention and opinion is a 4-disc MC not a disc/drum.
Does using a promotioning valve account for the equal sized pots? The one I pulled off the car is actually correct for disc/drum but it's pretty roached.
The master cylinder that came with the kit is a dual pot but by convention and opinion is a 4-disc MC not a disc/drum.
Does using a promotioning valve account for the equal sized pots? The one I pulled off the car is actually correct for disc/drum but it's pretty roached.
Rear lines hung. Waiting on the flex line to finish that up. Replaced the clips along the route as well. Wish I had taken pictures of the "before" state. Downside of the Inline Tube kits for rookies like me is that there are no instructions or car specific diagrams. 64 Tech manual was no help either... but they're correct that there's only one way that they'll fit 
Slowdown again. Had a stud break off like a twig. Guess 50+ years of brake fluid took a toll. Going to have to remove the entire pedal bracket and press the remains out and replace with a bolt and nut 
OK. Busy garage day
Interior bracket removed, studs pressed out
Decided.to replace all 4, they were very corroded from rust and brake fluid over the years.
Removed rust off the brackets and firewall, and plates.
Tack welded #5 bolts in the place of the studs. Primed and top-coated the bracket
Remounted the bracket, re-artached the steering shaft to the steering gear. Placed the booster in place and selected appropriate linkage.
Unfortunately the next step is to remove the booster so I can cut down the booster shaft to the correct length.
Tight fit but so far so good.
Bench bleeding the master is next,. Going to go with synthetic brake fluid since I've replaced everything from front to rear.
Once I get the MC mounted on the booster I will be able to mock up the lines and figure out where the distribution block and proportioning valve will be mounted
Interior bracket removed, studs pressed out
Decided.to replace all 4, they were very corroded from rust and brake fluid over the years.
Removed rust off the brackets and firewall, and plates.
Tack welded #5 bolts in the place of the studs. Primed and top-coated the bracket
Remounted the bracket, re-artached the steering shaft to the steering gear. Placed the booster in place and selected appropriate linkage.
Unfortunately the next step is to remove the booster so I can cut down the booster shaft to the correct length.
Tight fit but so far so good.
Bench bleeding the master is next,. Going to go with synthetic brake fluid since I've replaced everything from front to rear.
Once I get the MC mounted on the booster I will be able to mock up the lines and figure out where the distribution block and proportioning valve will be mounted
Hey all... well, 16 weeks after the Valiant went up on jack stands, we have disc brakes!
It's been a long couple days work so just a quick hit right now. I'll have a longer post concerning the kit I chose, what was nice and what was not.
Short answer, instructions were horrid and machining of some parts were consistently poor.
The good was that all the parts were there and no challenges with alignment with the @PST suspension parts.
I'm stoked to get her on 4 tires again. Hopefully next weekend. Master cylinder bench bleeding and install to come. I'm going with synthetic brake fluid
It's been a long couple days work so just a quick hit right now. I'll have a longer post concerning the kit I chose, what was nice and what was not.
Short answer, instructions were horrid and machining of some parts were consistently poor.
The good was that all the parts were there and no challenges with alignment with the @PST suspension parts.
I'm stoked to get her on 4 tires again. Hopefully next weekend. Master cylinder bench bleeding and install to come. I'm going with synthetic brake fluid
Some feedback on the Classic Disc (MBM) brake kit. First off, the directions that are provided are pretty horrible and for a relative novice like me, good directions are important. What is provided is generic regardless of which kit you use, so I spent a bunch of time pulling pieces off of the old drum when I later found that those pieces were in the kit...so it was unnecessary and wasted time.
It also completely skips things like installing the backing plate so right after getting the dust cap on the first side, I look over in the box and see the backing plate... But hey, the second time installing everything went way faster.
There is some duplication of small items such as screws and bolts with some coming as part of the base kit and then duplicated in other elements which can be somewhat confusing. The small parts bag is just a bag of random everything so trying to find the 2407 "sleeve" took some sifting. The instructions show some pretty low quality images so a level of guessing is required.
The booster and master cylinder are generic so if you're seeking OEM look then this isn't the kit for you. Booster mounting was fairly straightforward and I hit that earlier with the broken stud. Pressing out the old studs and welding in bolts was the ticket and worked out well on the install. The booster comes with 3 different size pedal linkages, so you can choose the proper linkage to get the pedal angle you need. The firewall plate has to be removed and replaced with a slotted one that comes with the kit. Down side is that you essentially have to install and uninstall the booster several times to get everything aligned correctly, then cut the booster shaft to the proper length to allow spacing and accommodation of the linkage.
Machining quality seems to be decent in the kit, and zero issues with fitment using original stock upper and lower control arms. First side took a little time sorta fumbling through the "instructions" but the second side was pretty quick. I had to extrapolate torque specs since the instructions state to follow OEM recommendations. To me that makes no sense given that it is a conversion kit into a car that did not have disc brakes. Through some research I came to some conclusions on what to torque the steering knuckle and caliper bracket (had to upgrade my torque wrench to handle specs over 100 ft/lbs). Have not yet bench bled the master cylinder, maybe this week. Curious to see if my Inlinetube brake line kit will be OK with the movement of the master cylinder 6 inches further forward.
As I have replaced everything from the rear wheel cylinders forward (everything) I'm transitioning to DOT 5 Silicone brake fluid. The master is dual-pot and I will be using a proportioning valve although I'm not exactly sure where I am going to install that. Things are pretty tight on the left side of the engine bay with the headers taking up a lot of room. I am going back to a 9" air cleaner because the 14" Holley on there now is too tight a clearance. The carb linkage JUST clears the booster. Was sweating that for a bit as I got the booster in. I still had some confidence that it would work out because I made a cardboard cutout previously to see what would happen. Anyhow, I happy with the LOOK. Proof in the pudding once I apply some power and see how things perform and hold up. Happy to answer any other questions.
It also completely skips things like installing the backing plate
so right after getting the dust cap on the first side, I look over in the box and see the backing plate... But hey, the second time installing everything went way faster. There is some duplication of small items such as screws and bolts with some coming as part of the base kit and then duplicated in other elements which can be somewhat confusing. The small parts bag is just a bag of random everything so trying to find the 2407 "sleeve" took some sifting. The instructions show some pretty low quality images so a level of guessing is required.
The booster and master cylinder are generic so if you're seeking OEM look then this isn't the kit for you. Booster mounting was fairly straightforward and I hit that earlier with the broken stud. Pressing out the old studs and welding in bolts was the ticket and worked out well on the install. The booster comes with 3 different size pedal linkages, so you can choose the proper linkage to get the pedal angle you need. The firewall plate has to be removed and replaced with a slotted one that comes with the kit. Down side is that you essentially have to install and uninstall the booster several times to get everything aligned correctly, then cut the booster shaft to the proper length to allow spacing and accommodation of the linkage.
Machining quality seems to be decent in the kit, and zero issues with fitment using original stock upper and lower control arms. First side took a little time sorta fumbling through the "instructions" but the second side was pretty quick. I had to extrapolate torque specs since the instructions state to follow OEM recommendations. To me that makes no sense given that it is a conversion kit into a car that did not have disc brakes. Through some research I came to some conclusions on what to torque the steering knuckle and caliper bracket (had to upgrade my torque wrench to handle specs over 100 ft/lbs). Have not yet bench bled the master cylinder, maybe this week. Curious to see if my Inlinetube brake line kit will be OK with the movement of the master cylinder 6 inches further forward.
As I have replaced everything from the rear wheel cylinders forward (everything) I'm transitioning to DOT 5 Silicone brake fluid. The master is dual-pot and I will be using a proportioning valve although I'm not exactly sure where I am going to install that. Things are pretty tight on the left side of the engine bay with the headers taking up a lot of room. I am going back to a 9" air cleaner because the 14" Holley on there now is too tight a clearance. The carb linkage JUST clears the booster. Was sweating that for a bit as I got the booster in. I still had some confidence that it would work out because I made a cardboard cutout previously to see what would happen. Anyhow, I happy with the LOOK. Proof in the pudding once I apply some power and see how things perform and hold up. Happy to answer any other questions.
OK... quick update and a VERY important information nugget.
About had a meltdown last night when I decided to put one of the wheels on the front where the discs were installed
The wheel DID NOT FIT. (14 x 6 SBP aluminum slot with 3-1/2" back spacing) Wheel jammed right up against the caliper.
Pulled that wheel off and tried the 14" steelie spare. Same result.
Needless to say I was a bit disturbed as I had ordered and paid for a 14" compatible kit.
Conversed with some friends about options and a nugget gets dropped by @toolmanmike .... you need "New" style wheels to fit the disc caliper...
What????
Well, that was news to me. Fortunately I had some more modern wheels handy and sure enough. They fit the disc setup..
So, important learning that not all 14" wheels are the same 14"
Onward...DOT 5 brake fluid should arrive tomorrow. Have to flare some Tubing to tie in the Master Cylinder. My guess was right that adding the booster caused the shift forward by 6 inches so I'll need to make up the difference to connect to the brake lines down by the frame rail.
Here's some pics
About had a meltdown last night when I decided to put one of the wheels on the front where the discs were installed
The wheel DID NOT FIT. (14 x 6 SBP aluminum slot with 3-1/2" back spacing) Wheel jammed right up against the caliper.
Pulled that wheel off and tried the 14" steelie spare. Same result.
Needless to say I was a bit disturbed as I had ordered and paid for a 14" compatible kit.
Conversed with some friends about options and a nugget gets dropped by @toolmanmike .... you need "New" style wheels to fit the disc caliper...
What????
Well, that was news to me. Fortunately I had some more modern wheels handy and sure enough. They fit the disc setup..
So, important learning that not all 14" wheels are the same 14"
Onward...DOT 5 brake fluid should arrive tomorrow. Have to flare some Tubing to tie in the Master Cylinder. My guess was right that adding the booster caused the shift forward by 6 inches so I'll need to make up the difference to connect to the brake lines down by the frame rail.
Here's some pics
paulieocean
Well-Known Member
I found out the hard way too. Got some 14in SBP rallye wheels to fit. They have them new at wheel vintiques
Thanks for chiming in
Yeah, I think that "little" factoid is a HUGE information gap that the vendors need to put up front. Fortunately I had an extra set of wheels kicking around but now have to figure out my spare as well. Any idea what the break point is in wheel manufacture from the "old" to the "new" form? (anyone else out there??)
Getting closer. Bent tube and flared fittings into the master cylinder. Everything tied into the front lines. I'm still short the larger line connection off of the proportioning block for the rear and a vacuum line from the booster to the carb or manifold.
Test fit everything else though. Appears to be ready
Test fit everything else though. Appears to be ready
Finalized the block connections and vacuum line hook-up. went through all of the fittings to verify good connections. Should be able to bleed the system tonight or tomorrow. Anyone have an idea on how to best flush out the old brake fluid from my hydraulic bleeding system? Old DOT3 in there and I'm running DOT 5 in this new setup.
Got everything bled
Wow, what I thought were good connections were obviously garbage
Snugged everything up and looking good now, no seepage or leaking.
LOTS of work to do adjusting the suspension.
Wow, what I thought were good connections were obviously garbage
Snugged everything up and looking good now, no seepage or leaking.
LOTS of work to do adjusting the suspension.
OK update. Not a huge amount on the brakes, mostly front suspension and alignment work.
I had split off the PCV Vacuum line to the carburetor at first but there was a noticeable rpm drop when engaging the brakes. I added an intake manifold vacuum port and ran that directly to the booster and that evened things out.
String alignment went well. The car rides very well. I did upgrade from the front end kit tie rods to Moog OEM. A noticeable difference in quality and fit
I had split off the PCV Vacuum line to the carburetor at first but there was a noticeable rpm drop when engaging the brakes. I added an intake manifold vacuum port and ran that directly to the booster and that evened things out.
String alignment went well. The car rides very well. I did upgrade from the front end kit tie rods to Moog OEM. A noticeable difference in quality and fit
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