64 cuda project

[PWN]

I'm not sure if this is the correct area to put this so I apologize if it is wrong.

I have a 64 barracuda I'm restoring and I have some questions. The car is in decent shape and is 100% original. The car has never left California and I'm the 4th owner. A few rust spots and an eaten driver floor pan is the extent of the body work. The interior looks almost untouched in some areas and horrible in other areas- no idea how that happens.


My basic plan is to pull the working 273 and the push button trans out. I have a complete 360 off a 70s truck that is being torn down an built up to my target of 400ish horsepower. I believe all the smog stuff will be pulled off and scrapped. I have a 727 trans that is going to be rebuilt as well and I want to have a floor shifter.

I want to keep the body looking as is (other than new paint). The interior I want to be updated. I want to replace the dash and some newer style gauges. I want to add some newer bucket seats and a new rear bench, hopefully keeping the fold down style intact.

I'd like to put some bigger tires and add power disc brakes as well. Any suggestions on brake parts for doing this? Not sure if I should salvage something (no idea from what make/model) or look for a newer kit?

Should I be looking into changing out or beefing up the suspension and driveshaft with the motor/trans combo I have? I'm hoping the trans can handle the horsepower I'm shooting for.

This is all I can think of right now. I'm open to suggestions and any/all advice. This is my first project car and I want to learn as much as possible. Most of this is probably basic stuff to most of you and I thank you for your help and patience :thumbrig: I'll post more questions as I think of them, I'm just too tired right now and I dont want to anger anyone with more text than I already have.

 

[The_night_rider]

You would need to get a bigger rear end if you still have your 7.25 rear. An 8.25 or even an 8.75 would be good choices. Plus with that you could get big bolt patten and buy wheels with 5x4.5 bolt pattern. Instead of the small bolt pattern.
You could get disc brake spindles off of a later A body, 67+ I believe. Or just get a different front suspension system altogether.
As for rear bench I don't know what other options are out there other than stock, you could always reupholster them with whatever new front seats you get to make them match.

 

[65Cuda273]

You would need to get a bigger rear end if you still have your 7.25 rear. An 8.25 or even an 8.75 would be good choices. Plus with that you could get big bolt patten and buy wheels with 5x4.5 bolt pattern. Instead of the small bolt pattern.
You could get disc brake spindles off of a later A body, 67+ I believe. Or just get a different front suspension system altogether.
As for rear bench I don't know what other options are out there other than stock, you could always reupholster them with whatever new front seats you get to make them match.

Maybe update your cooling system! Put all the options under it that a 1965 Formula S came with. Good Luck!

 

[PWN]

Thanks for the info!

From back plate to back plate I got 51.25 and from perch to perch I got 42.75 ....what year should I be looking for to get a doner with an 8.75 that would work with whats there? Would any 69-74 mopar with an 8.75 work? Will I most likely need a new drive shaft? And I'm guessing I should go with posi if possible?

 

[66dartgt]

The axle you want will be from any A body that was fitted with an 8 3/4 or 8 1/4 axle. All A bodies have the same spring perch and axle widths, they are completely swappable. The 8 3/4 axle will have the small bolt pattern to match your car's - the 8 1/4 will have the 5 on 4 1/2" pattern like the larger cars, B E and C bodies. You will find 8 3/4 in 72 and older a bodies and 8 1/4 in 73 and newer. But that does not mean u wont find alot of 7 1/4 axles, they were the standard rather than the exception in a bodies over the years, in both large and small bolt pattern versions. Dont forget that alot of people swap axles around so you may find an 8 3/4 in a later a body as well.

Any of these axles can be converted to sure grip, mopars don't have posi's thats a GM term ! LOL.

The big issue is to find an 8 3/4 - they are expensive, and getting rarer, if whoever is selling it knows what it is, plus they are a better choice for hot rodding than an 8 1/4.

Happy Hunting !

 

[Old Tired Rebel]

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[pishta]

The rear tire is limited not to the spring perches, but to the inner fenderwell, you can only get another inch or so by relocating the springs back there, mini tubbs are out if you want to keep the back seat in its original configuration as the rear back hinge is on the inner fenderwell. 8.25 will be 75% cheaper than an 8.75 and you can find all the goodies for that one too including new SG units. Front disc donors are usually large bolt pattern anyway so its a good idea to keep i spare instead of 2 patterns or carry an adapter. The rear seat backs get cooked under the rear glass, probably why the rear seat back and carpet are powder now. Guages are EZ, just unscrew the 4 screws and the dash pod comes out. 727 needs to be out of a car, not a truck. The tailshafts are different sizes and the truck beef wont fit in the narrow part of the tunnel (BTDT). Hurst Pro-Matic 2 fits right under the stock console (oops, you have no console, not hard to make) or use the Hurst console, cable actuated to a later 727. Ditch all the push button stuff to Ebay and pick up a couple bucks. Youll need a speedo cable, they are different than the dual pump 727/904's (I believe) get the kind the has a screw on ferule on both ends. 8.75 needs a shorter driveshaft and yours is ball and trunion (Detroit) anyway so that is a lock to change out. Recore the radiator with a 3 core or get a larger one out of something larger. Run a shroud, any shroud is better than nothing. May have to slightly clearance the gas tank where the 8.75 rear is, mighty close on mine, I think i had to dimple it. You already have V8 torsion bars (almost, get next size up or 2 if you can) power steering is a bear when it comes to exhaust, and the column is shorter than manual steering. Exhaust your limited to original 273 pieces or better yet, Early Dakota logs. Supposed to be the hot ticket. Course the 340 logs fit manual steering and can fit power if a little grinding is done, but between these and the A body 8.75, you'll be in the hole a G-note. Drop base air cleaner for any intake taller than a Holley Streetmaster or original 4bbl. Think thats about it. 205/70R14's are a good size, dont rub and fill the well nicely. bigger on the rear but watch the rub and the height at the front edge of the lower trim in the rear well.

 

[rapom65]

Should I be looking into changing out or beefing up the suspension and driveshaft with the motor/trans combo I have? I'm hoping the trans can handle the horsepower I'm shooting for.

A 727 will handle a 360 no problem. It's actually over kill. A quality built 904 is smaller, lighter and will use up less HP than a 727 and would be my suggestion on an early A body. These cars have physically smaller engine bays and a 3" shorter wheel base than the '67 up As so space is at a premium. You will have to flatten or remove the pinch weld flange on the firewall with a 727, not so with the 904. While an A body 8 3/4 would be the hot ticket axle they are getting scarce and demand a premium price. An 8 1/4 is a viable option for a street car even behind a 400 horse 360. Unless you plan on slicks and hammering on it at the track it will be fine. You will be traction limited with tires that fit in the stock wheel wells anyway. If your familiar with GM axles think 12 bolt vs 10 bolt. Look for an 8 1/4 out of any A body and get the drive shaft (904), springs, shock brackets, brakes and cables with it. It was posted above they came in '73 down but I got one out of a '75 4 door Valiant and my '74 Duster has one too. The latter models got progressively heavier over the years so I would think the springs would have been beefed along with the weight gain. I've read on the net that all late model rear springs where 340 spec but who knows if that's the case. All 8 1/4s are large bolt pattern. Stock 8 3/4 A body axles are small bolt pattern unless retrofitted with aftermarket axles or C body/truck axles. If you find an 8 3/4 be aware of the bolt pattern before you buy.

There are a couple of options on front disk brakes. Don't even think your going to put a 360 in that car without upgrading the front brakes (you upgraded the rears above). You will easily overpower the capabilities of the single pot system and will be endangering everyone on the road near you. There are kits out that will use your stock spindles and keep the small bolt pattern, others use new spindles and big bolt pattern. A popular mod is swapping in '73-76 A body disk brakes but you need to factor in cost of purchase & rebuild vs new aftermarket. Depending on condition sometimes new is more cost effective.

You've taken the first step in starting to ask questions. Use the search feature and educate yourself on all the ins and outs of any modifications your contemplating. You can potentially save yourself tons of $ and many headaches by getting expert advice prior to doing any mod. A couple of excellent sources of info for anyone wanting to upgrade their car with factory parts are a suspension & brake manual by Tom Condran titled "Performance handling for classic mopars". You can find it online. I've read it twice cover to cover and its excellent. The other and an essential in anyone's Mopar library is Mom Mopar's engine and chassis manuals. Mine are so old and used the covers have disintegrated.

 

[Old Tired Rebel]

The rear tire is limited not to the spring perches, but to the inner fenderwell, you can only get another inch or so by relocating the springs back there, mini tubbs are out if you want to keep the back seat in its original configuration as the rear back hinge is on the inner fenderwell. 8.25 will be 75% cheaper than an 8.75 and you can find all the goodies for that one too including new SG units. Front disc donors are usually large bolt pattern anyway so its a good idea to keep i spare instead of 2 patterns or carry an adapter. The rear seat backs get cooked under the rear glass, probably why the rear seat back and carpet are powder now. Guages are EZ, just unscrew the 4 screws and the dash pod comes out. 727 needs to be out of a car, not a truck. The tailshafts are different sizes and the truck beef wont fit in the narrow part of the tunnel (BTDT). Hurst Pro-Matic 2 fits right under the stock console (oops, you have no console, not hard to make) or use the Hurst console, cable actuated to a later 727. Ditch all the push button stuff to Ebay and pick up a couple bucks. Youll need a speedo cable, they are different than the dual pump 727/904's (I believe) get the kind the has a screw on ferule on both ends. 8.75 needs a shorter driveshaft and yours is ball and trunion (Detroit) anyway so that is a lock to change out. Recore the radiator with a 3 core or get a larger one out of something larger. Run a shroud, any shroud is better than nothing. May have to slightly clearance the gas tank where the 8.75 rear is, mighty close on mine, I think i had to dimple it. You already have V8 torsion bars (almost, get next size up or 2 if you can) power steering is a bear when it comes to exhaust, and the column is shorter than manual steering. Exhaust your limited to original 273 pieces or better yet, Early Dakota logs. Supposed to be the hot ticket. Course the 340 logs fit manual steering and can fit power if a little grinding is done, but between these and the A body 8.75, you'll be in the hole a G-note. Drop base air cleaner for any intake taller than a Holley Streetmaster or original 4bbl. Think thats about it. 205/70R14's are a good size, dont rub and fill the well nicely. bigger on the rear but watch the rub and the height at the front edge of the lower trim in the rear well.

Should I be looking into changing out or beefing up the suspension and driveshaft with the motor/trans combo I have? I'm hoping the trans can handle the horsepower I'm shooting for.

A 727 will handle a 360 no problem. It's actually over kill. A quality built 904 is smaller, lighter and will use up less HP than a 727 and would be my suggestion on an early A body. These cars have physically smaller engine bays and a 3" shorter wheel base than the '67 up As so space is at a premium. You will have to flatten or remove the pinch weld flange on the firewall with a 727, not so with the 904. While an A body 8 3/4 would be the hot ticket axle they are getting scarce and demand a premium price. An 8 1/4 is a viable option for a street car even behind a 400 horse 360. Unless you plan on slicks and hammering on it at the track it will be fine. You will be traction limited with tires that fit in the stock wheel wells anyway. If your familiar with GM axles think 12 bolt vs 10 bolt. Look for an 8 1/4 out of any A body and get the drive shaft (904), springs, shock brackets, brakes and cables with it. It was posted above they came in '73 down but I got one out of a '75 4 door Valiant and my '74 Duster has one too. The latter models got progressively heavier over the years so I would think the springs would have been beefed along with the weight gain. I've read on the net that all late model rear springs where 340 spec but who knows if that's the case. All 8 1/4s are large bolt pattern. Stock 8 3/4 A body axles are small bolt pattern unless retrofitted with aftermarket axles or C body/truck axles. If you find an 8 3/4 be aware of the bolt pattern before you buy.

There are a couple of options on front disk brakes. Don't even think your going to put a 360 in that car without upgrading the front brakes (you upgraded the rears above). You will easily overpower the capabilities of the single pot system and will be endangering everyone on the road near you. There are kits out that will use your stock spindles and keep the small bolt pattern, others use new spindles and big bolt pattern. A popular mod is swapping in '73-76 A body disk brakes but you need to factor in cost of purchase & rebuild vs new aftermarket. Depending on condition sometimes new is more cost effective.

You've taken the first step in starting to ask questions. Use the search feature and educate yourself on all the ins and outs of any modifications your contemplating. You can potentially save yourself tons of $ and many headaches by getting expert advice prior to doing any mod. A couple of excellent sources of info for anyone wanting to upgrade their car with factory parts are a suspension & brake manual by Tom Condran titled "Performance handling for classic mopars". You can find it online. I've read it twice cover to cover and its excellent. The other and an essential in anyone's Mopar library is Mom Mopar's engine and chassis manuals. Mine are so old and used the covers have disintegrated.

Great information, Thank you since I am like PWN and been reading here and thinking about what to do with my Barracuda.