64 Dart Gt 4 speed won’t shift into gear ??

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chewy said:
Not sure what you are yelling about. He still hasn't confirmed that whether the clutch is releasing.

I would rather confirm I had to tear it all apart before doing so, wouldn't you??

When you stab a crank with a transmission most know if it's in or not. And whether you are forcing the pilot shaft into the bushing.
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Not yelling, emphasizing what the OP needs to stay focused on. If You'd have read all 70+ posts, You'd know the OP stated it starts & idles fine in neutral, but unable to get it into gear once running, it's not trying to move in neutral & it's not in 2 gears at once...that is all. I know a number of guys who "oughta know" the torque converter isn't fully engaged over the pump gear lugs, but pulled the trans in with the screws anyways & trashed the pump...a couple of 'em.... so it certainly can't be ruled out the pilot is tight.
We have told the OP a couple of ways to check the release, & look for issues, as toolman mike said He needs a handy assistant.
 
So, you haven't removed the transmission yet?
 
Ain't forums great? Spend four pages taking about it....
Get serious.... Quit talking & start turning wrenches...
 
Killer6 said:
Not yelling, emphasizing what the OP needs to stay focused on. If You'd have read all 70+ posts, You'd know the OP stated it starts & idles fine in neutral, but unable to get it into gear once running, it's not trying to move in neutral & it's not in 2 gears at once...that is all. I know a number of guys who "oughta know" the torque converter isn't fully engaged over the pump gear lugs, but pulled the trans in with the screws anyways & trashed the pump...a couple of 'em.... so it certainly can't be ruled out the pilot is tight.
We have told the OP a couple of ways to check the release, & look for issues, as toolman mike said He needs a handy assistant.
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Yes it start but won’t shift into gear and if I try to put it in gear it grinds
 
When you dig into it the second time you'll go in with more knowledge & you'll see details you wouldn't have seen the first time..... No one likes doing it a second time but we all learn from it....
 
Killer6 said:
Not yelling, emphasizing what the OP needs to stay focused on.
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All caps is yelling. Not sure why you think it isnt.

Killer6 said:
If You'd have read all 70+ posts, You'd know the OP stated it starts & idles fine in neutral, but unable to get it into gear once running, it's not trying to move in neutral & it's not in 2 gears at once...that is all. I know a number of guys who "oughta know" the torque converter isn't fully engaged over the pump gear lugs, but pulled the trans in with the screws anyways & trashed the pump...a couple of 'em.... so it certainly can't be ruled out the pilot is tight.
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If there weren't issues on install I still have doubts that the pilot is too tight. If it is, it's a conclusiom to reach by order of elimination to get to that conclusion. Not assume it's all bad and pull the Trans to check.
Killer6 said:
We have told the OP a couple of ways to check the release, & look for issues, as toolman mike said He needs a handy assistant.
Click to expand...
This was my point that it needed to be done. Yet, None of the three points you had in all caps re iterated to check that it is releasing or not. Troubleshoot it first.

Why pull the Trans when you don't know it needs to be done yet without first confirming the linkage is working, or not. Can't troubleshoot linkage issues with the transmission on the ground.

These early As have issues like this. Torque shafts weren't as strong. Welds break, some crack. Clutch forks wear out. Pivot brackets crack. Ball stud brackets crack. Ball studs wear out.

Every item circled has gone bad and needed to be replaced on my early A in the last 15 years. Most except for the boot effect the symptoms described by the OP.
20231230_090950.jpg


20231230_091403.jpg
 
sonny64 said:
When the clutch pedal is pushed in it does move the clutch forward
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Does this mean the fork is going forward and the pressure plate is releasing the clutch between the pressure plate and the flywheel? Did you see a gap or able to move the disc?
 
chewy said:
Does this mean the fork is going forward and the pressure plate is releasing the clutch between the pressure plate and the flywheel? Did you see a gap or able to move the disc?
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I asked that earlier and didn't get much of an answer.
 
chewy said:
All caps is yelling. Not sure why you think it isnt.


If there weren't issues on install I still have doubts that the pilot is too tight. If it is, it's a conclusiom to reach by order of elimination to get to that conclusion. Not assume it's all bad and pull the Trans to check.

This was my point that it needed to be done. Yet, None of the three points you had in all caps re iterated to check that it is releasing or not. Troubleshoot it first.

Why pull the Trans when you don't know it needs to be done yet without first confirming the linkage is working, or not. Can't troubleshoot linkage issues with the transmission on the ground.

These early As have issues like this. Torque shafts weren't as strong. Welds break, some crack. Clutch forks wear out. Pivot brackets crack. Ball stud brackets crack. Ball studs wear out.

Every item circled has gone bad and needed to be replaced on my early A in the last 15 years. Most except for the boot effect the symptoms described by the OP.
View attachment 1716185574

View attachment 1716185575
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See how in the first pic it has the spring that connects to the middle. On mine it connects from only the top
 
chewy said:
All caps is yelling. Not sure why you think it isnt.


If there weren't issues on install I still have doubts that the pilot is too tight. If it is, it's a conclusiom to reach by order of elimination to get to that conclusion. Not assume it's all bad and pull the Trans to check.

This was my point that it needed to be done. Yet, None of the three points you had in all caps re iterated to check that it is releasing or not. Troubleshoot it first.

Why pull the Trans when you don't know it needs to be done yet without first confirming the linkage is working, or not. Can't troubleshoot linkage issues with the transmission on the ground.

These early As have issues like this. Torque shafts weren't as strong. Welds break, some crack. Clutch forks wear out. Pivot brackets crack. Ball stud brackets crack. Ball studs wear out.

Every item circled has gone bad and needed to be replaced on my early A in the last 15 years. Most except for the boot effect the symptoms described by the OP.
View attachment 1716185574

View attachment 1716185575
Click to expand...
You can make "all caps is yelling" in Your head if You want Dude, note the absence of exclamation points at the end of each sentence/statement, hmmmm..curious huh?
Let everybody know precisely how many dbs are assigned to lower case, upper case, and each with or without exclamation points..lolol!
Oh, Happy New Years!!
 
sonny64 said:
I don’t know why I feel like it’s just pulls in one side more
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So the clutch is releasing when a friend steps on the clutch pedal?

If the clutch fork isn't square on the throw out bearing have you pulled it out and reinstalled it to try to square it up? How does the pivot bracket it slips into look?
 
The clutch itself is pretty simple. Just 4 components. The linkage is something else. There are lot's of pieces and everything has to work perfect or you may have issues. Good thing there is a little slop built in to each linkage piece which equals the free play. I ruined the first clutch in my 66 by adjusting the free play and not checking the gap. The throw out bearing was riding on the fingers at all times and the bearing seized. It ground up the PP fingers. And yes, it had the perfect amount of free play at the pedal.
 
sonny64 said:
See how in the first pic it has the spring that connects to the middle. On mine it connects from only the top
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The second picture is notated "Dart models", & has the spring hooked over the top, as Yours should be.
 
I just thought of something else, happened to me once. When you pull the trans, measure all 3 pressure plate fingers, make sure that they are all at the same height. Just something to check, looking for something to be wrong.
 
sonny64 said:
I don’t know why I feel like it’s just pulls in one side more
Click to expand...
If You've got it on stands, disconnect the propeller shaft & bungee cord/tie it out of the way. Get a helper, have them push the clutch all the way in & put it in 4th gear. Grab the ball&trunion flange on the tailshaft & turn/try to turn it while watching the disc, what happens? Won't turn? If it turns, does it "waggle", or drag?
When the helper is pushing the clutch in & out repeatedly, does the pivot plate look like it's moving or flexing? With the fork-arm return/anti-rattle spring on top, the top of the fork may make contact 1st, but once pressure is applied, it should "square-up" immediately.
 
CRUZE 418 said:
I just thought of something else, happened to me once. When you pull the trans, measure all 3 pressure plate fingers, make sure that they are all at the same height. Just something to check, looking for something to be wrong.
Click to expand...
Junk parts are always a possibility, even when You buy "good stuff" sometimes...
 
Here’s the update in this post… so I was about to take the trans out but my dad came by and told me to try to shift the gears with out the spring attached to the folk and see if it shift into gear. So that’s what I did and bam I was able to shift to all 4 gears and R with no gridding or difficulty to shift but as soon as I put the spring back on, I can’t shift and it grinds and even when I adjusted the clutch linkage back so I can have space the gears still grind and won’t shift. Thank you all for helping me out but can the spring effect it that much ?
 
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