64 Dart Gt 4 speed won’t shift into gear ??

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I'd have to see it to believe it as all the spring does is guarantee the throw out bearing isn't along for the ride on the pressure plate fingers!
 
sonny64 said:
Here’s the update in this post… so I was about to take the trans out but my dad came by and told me to try to shift the gears with out the spring attached to the folk and see if it shift into gear. So that’s what I did and bam I was able to shift to all 4 gears and R with no gridding or difficulty to shift but as soon as I put the spring back on, I can’t shift and it grinds and even when I adjusted the clutch linkage back so I can have space the gears still grind and won’t shift. Thank you all for helping me out but can the spring effect it that much ?
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Do you have a pic for us of how the spring is hooked up?
 
dadsbee said:
I'd have to see it to believe it as all the spring does is guarantee the throw out bearing isn't along for the ride on the pressure plate fingers!
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That what I told my dad to but he said if the spring is to tight it won’t let the throw out bearing contact the fingers properly. So I’m assuming that the spring was only giving pressure to one side of the throw out bearing and not letting it have full contact on all the fingers
 
chryslerfat said:
Do you have a pic for us of how the spring is hooked up?
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I currently don’t have the spring in but I can put it tomorrow after work or just show the spring it’s self and my pops said that the spring he saw didn’t look oem to him. He had a few valiants and darts years ago but he’s a Chevy guy
 
Through the years I've ran into a few head scratchers... You can wonder & worry.. Or you can drive the damn car... If it acts up again you'll know there's more going on... If not? Smile & enjoy the ride... If I were back in San Diego I'd be enjoying every day....
 
Are you saying the car is actually driving now?
 
1WildRT said:
Through the years I've ran into a few head scratchers... You can wonder & worry.. Or you can drive the damn car... If it acts up again you'll know there's more going on... If not? Smile & enjoy the ride... If I were back in San Diego I'd be enjoying every day....
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The spring is different. The oem looks a bit long and not so tight. I ordered the oem one and I’ll post a picture if both but thanks for you time
 
sonny64 said:
The spring is different. The oem looks a bit long and not so tight. I ordered the oem one and I’ll post a picture if both but thanks for you time
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It would have to be a VERY cocky spring, but it actually makes sense, here's how..
The fork is only held in position on the blade-style fulcrum by the spring tongue through the slot, if the anti-rattle/retention spring is super cocky, it can become a second fulcrum, and cause the fork arm to actually draw away from the blade fulcrum....deflecting the spring tongue & resulting in lost motion & preventing sufficient leverage....that would fall into the "incorrect part" category..
Send Us pics of the springs side-by-side when You get the correct one, and the results. No matter the 45+ years I've spent working on mechanical/electrical/pneumatic/hydraulic stuff, 36+ as a professional Tech, I always find something else I haven't run into before.....lol..
The spring tongue on the fork may be bent/weak/cracked & helped this prblem along, but if the factory spring functions fine once installed, drive on Young Man...
 
It looks super short

IMG_8727.jpeg
 
Was it under a lot of tension when it was attached?
 
sonny64 said:
Yes. Even when I pressed the peddle it felt like it was a new car
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I believe that's the wrong spring. In fact, that's not even the correct for 1964 clutch fork.
 
I believe some of your problem is you have a mismatch of parts from different years.
 
Killer6 said:
That looks like a spring out of an assortment kit from motormite/help/dorman etc., nothing wrong with that other than that's the wrong spring for the job.
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What the right one because my local transmission place told me to get one of the those too
 
The one on the right is from trans spot and the left is Dorman and I have to cut it to size. So if anyone knows the size let me know

IMG_8729.jpeg
 
sonny64 said:
The one on the right is from trans spot and the left is Dorman and I have to cut it to size. So if anyone knows the size let me know

View attachment 1716187590
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On the right...look at the wire diameter, coil diameter, & number of coils. Smaller wire, larger & more coils = less stiff....larger wire, smaller & fewer coils = more stiff.
You might have to cut half of the exaggerated "U" hook off of the right one to get it attached, good pair pair of side cutters gets it done.
 
Killer6 said:
On the right...look at the wire diameter, coil diameter, & number of coils. Smaller wire, larger & more coils = less stiff....larger wire, smaller & fewer coils = more stiff.
You might have to cut half of the exaggerated "U" hook off of the right one to get it attached, good pair pair of side cutters gets it done.
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So you recommen I should use the thinker one ?
 
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