65 273 and 904 kick down adjustment????

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604

604

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I have been pulling my hear out trying to get the the kick down leaver right on this 904. It was a 2bbl car. Now had a edelbrock performer, and a edelbrock afb, with the proper adapter on the throttle lever. But I can not get this thing adjusted right. If you adjust it to go all the way back, it will not go all the way forward. If you adjust it to go all the way forward it will not go all the way back. Any one else out there have this problem on a early A-body, and or know a good fix? I have never had this early linkage before. Thanks for any ideas!!
 
604 said:
I have been pulling my hear out trying to get the the kick down leaver right on this 904. It was a 2bbl car. Now had a edelbrock performer, and a edelbrock afb, with the proper adapter on the throttle lever. But I can not get this thing adjusted right. If you adjust it to go all the way back, it will not go all the way forward. If you adjust it to go all the way forward it will not go all the way back. Any one else out there have this problem on a early A-body, and or know a good fix? I have never had this early linkage before. Thanks for any ideas!!
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You got the right throttle adapter, but you dont have the correct carb rod end piece. Youyll need to file out the slot to make it longer (drill and file corners) or just get the correct screw on piece. Youll know how long to make it by how far off the kickdown needs to be. The top and middle rods are adjustable I believe, I have one at home, ill measure the slot if you need me to, that is if I can find it, bought it about a year ago.
 
pishta said:
You got the right throttle adapter, but you dont have the correct carb rod end piece. Youyll need to file out the slot to make it longer (drill and file corners) or just get the correct screw on piece. Youll know how long to make it by how far off the kickdown needs to be. The top and middle rods are adjustable I believe, I have one at home, ill measure the slot if you need me to, that is if I can find it, bought it about a year ago.
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Thanks but the top rod is non adjustable on this 65. The slot is to long to pussh it all the way back, and to short to let it go all the way forward. The only adjustment is on the middle rod. nd I have it as short as it will go. It looks like I need to change the ratio on the lower belcrank some how. This is enough to make me put in a full manual reverse valve body!!
 
your saying the top rod with the slotted end is one piece? How did they do that? IIRC, the end piece will screw off, its a 5/16 fine thread, but may not show the threads if its all the way threaded. If that is the case can you extend the slot? The lower bellcrank is not special to this model, that are all the same. It only has to apply all the way on WOT, where it ends up on the backswing is not that important if its close. I think there is a lot of play before the kickdown/throttle pressure function starts to apply/ If it bugs you and you want to change the geometry, alter the hole in the kickdown arm off the trans. The closer the hole to the fulcrum, the shorter the stroke will be with equal travel.

BTW, I do run a full manual valve body, but still have the kickdown if I ever go back.
 
The 273 2bbl and 4bbl use different linkage. To modify the 2bbl to fit a 4bbl will take some cutting and welding to get the correct geometry. It might be easier to get an aftermarket cable kickdown setup.
 
pishta said:
your saying the top rod with the slotted end is one piece? How did they do that? IIRC, the end piece will screw off, its a 5/16 fine thread, but may not show the threads if its all the way threaded. If that is the case can you extend the slot? The lower bellcrank is not special to this model, that are all the same. It only has to apply all the way on WOT, where it ends up on the backswing is not that important if its close. I think there is a lot of play before the kickdown/throttle pressure function starts to apply/ If it bugs you and you want to change the geometry, alter the hole in the kickdown arm off the trans. The closer the hole to the fulcrum, the shorter the stroke will be with equal travel.

BTW, I do run a full manual valve body, but still have the kickdown if I ever go back.
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The top pice is all one piece. If I make the slot longer, then it will push it back even less. The center rod has a screw on ball end on it for adjustment. I have no way to know what is "stock" as my only other 65 has a slant 6 in it.
 
cudamark said:
The 273 2bbl and 4bbl use different linkage. To modify the 2bbl to fit a 4bbl will take some cutting and welding to get the correct geometry. It might be easier to get an aftermarket cable kickdown setup.
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Is there a less expensive sorce for the cable kit than Year One?? That want $180 +50 for a aftermarket intake bracket !!!!!!! That seems rather high to me.
 
73Scamp318 said:
Try Summit or Mancini Racing for a Lokar kickdown setup. A lot of people seem to like them over the stock setups.
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X2 best money I ever spent...Lokar throttle and kickdown is the best way to go, got mine from Jegs but just about anybody has em.
 
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