duey_roc
Well-Known Member
Well I was wrong. The distributor came today. It looks pretty good for what I paid for it. Now I'm having second thoughts because of fitment between the firewall and intake manifold runner...
65 Barracuda 187 code!!!
- Thread starter duey_roc
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duey_roc
Well-Known Member
I got an itch this evening so I decided to remove the crankshaft and see just how bad all the bearings are. Take a look for yourself. The rod bearings are totally toast as toast can be lol. Especially the rear cylinders. The main bearings don't look too terrible I think, but they're all being replaced. Planning on taking my crank over to my machinist tomorrow and having him polish it out!
duey_roc
Well-Known Member
Here are the rod bearing caps. The #8 cylinder is the one closest to the camera.
JDMopar
Well-Known Member
You should pull the rods out of it, and send them to the machine shop to be resized. If you don't, it won't be long before the new rod bearings look just like the ones in the pics. Not trying to spend your money for you, but I learned that lesson the hard way many moons ago. :banghead:
duey_roc
Well-Known Member
I was definitely considering it as I was pulling these caps. I honestly was only planning on putting bearings in and driving but the way things are looking, I'm most likely going to do a cylinder home, new rings, bearings, rod resizing, and crank polish.
duey_roc
Well-Known Member
My little sister and I started tearing the rest of the motor apart today and cleaned everything. The moron previous owner already stamped the rods with cylinder numbers but.... NONE of them were in the right cylinder??? :violent1: I don't understand! So I didn't stamp them. Instead I put them all in a box in order with a piece of paper with the cylinder number inside the piston underneath. I plan on getting the rods resized and reconditioned. Does anyone know if it still matters what cylinder number the rod goes in to if it get resized and the crank polished?
Here's the mock up of the new HEI distributor bolted in. It actually wasn't as big as I thought it would be. I think it's going to fit between the firewall! I'm excited to use it and get rid of the damn points lol.
Here's the mock up of the new HEI distributor bolted in. It actually wasn't as big as I thought it would be. I think it's going to fit between the firewall! I'm excited to use it and get rid of the damn points lol.
JDMopar
Well-Known Member
That's cool that you asked your little sister to help. 
rayer: The rods are factory stamped IIRC. The cap and the rod should have corresponding numbers stamped on them, and should be put together so the numbers are on the same side. Make sense? Also, if I remember right, the numbers should face the outside of the motor when they are assembled to the crank. The pistons have notches on the top, and those should face the front of the motor. If you can find the book, "How to build small block Chrysler engines" or something like that?, it will be a great help to you.
Edit....found a link. The book I have is the one that has the dude in a blue shirt with a stripe running down it. The newest book at the top may be the most up to date.
http://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&ke...oks&hvadid=3481610050&ref=pd_sl_4k9ilxahmo_bb
rayer: The rods are factory stamped IIRC. The cap and the rod should have corresponding numbers stamped on them, and should be put together so the numbers are on the same side. Make sense? Also, if I remember right, the numbers should face the outside of the motor when they are assembled to the crank. The pistons have notches on the top, and those should face the front of the motor. If you can find the book, "How to build small block Chrysler engines" or something like that?, it will be a great help to you.Edit....found a link. The book I have is the one that has the dude in a blue shirt with a stripe running down it. The newest book at the top may be the most up to date.
http://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&ke...oks&hvadid=3481610050&ref=pd_sl_4k9ilxahmo_bb
duey_roc
Well-Known Member
That's cool that you asked your little sister to help.
I know all of that but what I'm saying is the rod and the rod cap have previous stamps by the origianl owner and none of the numbers match lol. I pulled #7 out of #1 cylinder.
duey_roc
Well-Known Member
Today is going to consist of a lot of running around. This morning I went out to Pick and Pull and grabbed a timing cover out of a 70 D series truck. It couldn't have been easier, since everything was already removed around the engine lol. While I was there, I found a 72 dart swinger that was pretty scrapped. The seats looked ok thats about it! I dropped my pistons off with my machinist as well. Waiting to hear back from him, probably tomorrow. I decided I would go get new longer inner fender bolts to hold the wires up tight into the wheel well. I was also thinking of Mounting my starter relays on these bolts since theyre extra long. Do relays need to be grounded? I'm not sure....
I have plans to take my outer engine stuff like oil pan, timing cover, valve covers, and some other things to my friends house to media blast them. I'm still waiting for him to call me though! grrrrr....
I have plans to take my outer engine stuff like oil pan, timing cover, valve covers, and some other things to my friends house to media blast them. I'm still waiting for him to call me though! grrrrr....
Keep rollng,D.R.....
duey_roc
Well-Known Member
:burnout:
I never give up!
I was looking at my radiator last night. I think my uncle and I are going to build a custome front radiator support with the same material we used to build the fuel cell cradle. My problem is my radiator is too thick for the stock position, therefore I can't put a fan on the inside (puller). So were going to cut out the old radiator support and make one so the radiator sits in closer to the grille. Anyone have ideas?
duey_roc
Well-Known Member
Nope! I love the fact that it's one ignition wire to make it work. The less wiring the better
fstfish66
Well-Known Member
cut the radiator frame open to the width of your radiator drop it down from above,, if you remove the top of the support u can dron the radiator down in,,,to position,,then make a new support to go around the radistor from side to side,,, if you dont the fenders tend to lean in ward,,,make sure you have clearance for the hood linkage,,
duey_roc
Well-Known Member
Good advice! I definitely like that idea a lot. Maybe I can make a removable top beam in that goes over the radiator in case I need to pull it out. The bottom radiator support will have to be removed and remade but I think a long square tubing will work. I'll beautify it up too
fstfish66
Well-Known Member
after the radiator is in droped in,,,you can use like 1 inch square tube out in front of the rad,,,a little longer then the rad is wide,,on each end of the tube miter it,and make a short piece mitered to match,going to the sheet metal on the end of the short mitered tube make a mounting area out of flat stock welded to the short mitered piece,,,that will hold the fenders out and not make the radiator the support,,, sorrry i do not know how to drawl it out on here,,,, i hope you can visualize it,,
duey_roc
Well-Known Member
It's ok I can't draw either to save my life lol. But I definitely think I have it visualized so I'll give it a shot drawing it out tomorrow
fstfish66
Well-Known Member
i can drawl it out i meen i have no clue how to drawl it on here,,,,,,, let me know what you come up with,,,,its all going to depend on how thick and the type of mounting flange is on your radiator,,,
duey_roc
Well-Known Member
What I did was I drew it up then just took a picture and posted it on here lol.
duey_roc
Well-Known Member
I found our today from my machinist my crank is definitely going to need to be ground down. All 8 rod bearings were bronze lol. More money :/
duey_roc
Well-Known Member
I found this picture online today doing some research. This is going be very similar to what I'm thinking of doing. I went and got all the material today.
fstfish66
Well-Known Member
thats way over kill from what i was trying to say,,but if its in your budget,,go for it,,,but all that is not needed,,for a street car good luck
Run this.... As long as it fits correctly, good to go. Watch the module,my.02..... A great choice,if it fits correctly. (Check everything, here.does it engage with the oil pump shaft,correctly?) Most aftermarket speed parts,sometimes" just doesn't, bolt in"....
duey_roc
Well-Known Member
I went out and bought all the tubing to do it this way. I'm hoping this sunday I get to build it. If I'm going to customize something, I'm just going to go all the way lol.
This one actually wan't bad. I put everything together just as a mock up. The dizzy dropped nicely into the oiling rod groove, it cleared the rear intake runner, and I believe i have more than enough room between the firewall.
Good thing.
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