65 Barracuda daily driver

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For the ignition system, you can't go wrong with 16 AWG automotive grade wire (just because it comes from an auto part store doesn't make it automotive grade). Automotive grade usually costs 2X to 3X more than generic wire. However, I found Waytek Wire sells it at a very reasonable price. Give the connectors and terminals as much care and consideration as you can. Waytek sells very high quality terminals with a heat-shrink jacket that I use often. The cheap crimp connectors with a plastic sheath are just asking for AAA to come by and say "Hi".
 
So while I was waiting for the new connector to come in, I fixed some of the wiring of the old ECU connector and others. Including the temp gauge. I noticed that the temp gauge is now showing that the engine is overheating a bit. Before it was showing steady "normal" temperature. It would make sense that it's stalling and not starting again because it's overheating?! I guess I've been neglecting this engine because I thought I was going to swap in the new one a lot sooner.
 
I went back and read some of your posts.

Cranks okay, fuel getting to the carb, but no power to coil when hot.

Got to be in the ignition circuit somewhere. I'm clueless on Slants. Maybe @RustyRatRod or @67Dart273 can help you troubleshoot.
 
I noticed the slant was low on oil and, I'm not sure, but it's possible that it's been two years since I last changed the oil. I changed it yesterday, but haven't driven the car yet. At this point I think that a combination of issues cause the stalling/ non-starting. Not being aware that the car is overheating because the temp gauge wiring was bad, old oil leading to overheating combined with poor electrical connections?!
 
Installed the new ECU plug and all connection must be at least 100% better, and it's still happening. So, what could it be? Ignition switch? Is it possibly the engine itself? Maybe I should check compression?! Maybe timing is off?
 
The car was sitting for like two days and then wouldn't start and only cranking slowly. So I took battery and alternator to the parts store and had them tested. Battery was bad, but alternator was ok. Luckily they gave me a new battery for free. This is like the 3rd battery they gave me under warranty in the last 8 months or so! But that's possibly how all of that started: In October the car wouldn't crank or start at all, so I took battery and alternator to the store and they both tested bad. Got a new battery and a 65 amp alternator instead of the 60 amp alternator that I had before, because that's all they had. I don't even think any more that the higher output alternator was really the issue. Anyways, at some point the battery went bad again and I got a new one. A couple of weeks ago when I was checking voltages with a multimeter I noticed that the battery was charging 17-18 volts. I had another old voltage regulator laying around, so I installed that one. Now it was charging 14-15 volts, which I guess is a bit better, but either it was already too late for that battery or that voltage regulator was a bit better, but essentially also defective. I assume that already in October the voltage regulator was bad and was responsible for the death of the alternator and the batteries?! I assume the battery was overcharging/ boiling and that's why it got worse when it was hot?! Anyways, I also ordered a brand new voltage regulator and fingers crossed that will be the end of those issues!!!
 
From my research, lead-acid batteries are tolerant of charge voltages up to 15.2 - 15.3 volts. Anything above that and you are killing them. I suspect you found your killer.
 
I give up. The new voltage regulator and new battery haven't stopped the car from stalling and then not starting until an hour or two later. Sometimes it starts after 10 - 20 minutes. I've replaced pretty much everything electrical, re-wired and soldered. I even replaced the spark plugs today. Somehow my dash lights have gotten dimmer?! Now I'm thinking that the engine itself has an issue. Like head gasket, piston rings, valves? But there's no oil in the water or water in the oil. There's no smoke out of the exhaust. Maybe a bit of a lifter tick when cold. Hydraulic lifters. It runs great on the freeway, just not idling great. If it's the engine, I wouldn't even be that horrible, because I already have a new engine sitting in the garage. Just waiting for the transmission to come back from being rebuilt. It was going to be 2 weeks and now it's over two months. I hope to get it back this weekend. The following weekend I have plans, but the last weekend of the month I can hopefully pull the engine and swap the 318 in. Not having a reliable car until then is not great. Sorry for the rant, but I'm considering to buy a beater for the meantime, because I need to be able to get around.
 
I don't see the problem being with the engine itself, those six cylinder's are damn near bullet proof. I'm still thinking it's either electrical or fuel related. I know you don't want to hear that, but I don't see anything engine related that would do it.

I know it's frustrating since our old girls are pretty simple machines. I keep trying to find what would it be only when hot.
 
Yeah, that's what's so weird, that it's ok when the engine has cooled down. It's almost like the engine is flooding, but I've pulled the spark plugs when it's not starting and they are dry. I had rebuilt another carburetor and it did exactly the same thing. At this point I should probably take it to a repair shop, because I just can't figure it out.
 
If you take it somewhere, look for an old school type of shop. They are getting harder to find as the years go on. Some new shops only know how to plug it into a computer!!
 
66fyssh said:
If you take it somewhere, look for an old school type of shop. They are getting harder to find as the years go on. Some new shops only know how to plug it into a computer!!
Click to expand...
That's why I haven't taken it anywhere yet. There's a guy who's first car was a '66 Valiant and he has a '65 Barracuda, but he usually takes forever and I wasn't super happy with a couple of things he did. I'll see if I can find another old school shop nearby.
 
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Oh yeah, the only thing I haven't mentioned is that no matter how I tune it, there is an erratic misfire once in a while that intensifies when at a light in gear. Also happens in neutral though, but not as bad. But it will stall in neutral too. The only thing I haven't changed is the distributor, so that's like the last thing I can think of.
 
No, it's electronic ignition, electronic voltage regulator and matching alternator. Despite the problems I've been having, my stubbornness is unmatched, so on the way to my band mate's house on the way to a gig the car stalled and wouldn't start. Pushed it off the road next to a red curb (!) and called my band mate to pick me up. Played the gig and got back sometime after midnight. Weird thing is that the battery appeared to have died and it was barely cranking, which hadn't been the issue previously. I had one of those small, but powerful battery packs, that my neighbor borrowed me - hooked it up to the battery and the car started and I was able to drive it all the way home. With very dim headlights and no turn signals - hand signals instead. But amazingly all the way home, about 3 or 4 more miles. Ok, so the charging system seems to be problematic and I still think the new alternator messed everything up. The guy at the parts store didn't really know what he was doing, so when it was tested recently, I think it was showing an error code, but they guy said it was ok. I'll be out of town for a couple of days, but when back I will take Salma to a shop where will get the attention she needs haha. By the way, that dolly has moved furniture, engines, transmissions and bass amps! Also, I followed up on the TTi exhaust and I was told I was going to be shipped on Monday! Still waiting on the rebuilt transmission, but I really want to install the small block this month!

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Haven't been driving the car much, but it has a new battery, alternator and yet another new voltage regulator. Found a good that was recommended to me and who specializes in classic car electrical stuff. I will take the car over there on Wednesday.
In other news:
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My brand new TTi dual exhaust showed up! Very excited about that, since it is once of the last few things I need for the V8 swap. The other thing is the transmission, but the rebuilder can't seem to find the correct rear seal. I hope he'll find it soon, because I can't wait to hear that new exhaust!
 
I finally got my transmission back from the rebuilder! It took almost two months instead of the 2 weeks that I was told initially. Over the weekend I painted the pulleys, harmonic balancer and motor mounts. I still need to pain the block and exhaust manifolds etc and put it all back together and then install the torque converter and bolt the transmission to the engine. And assemble the Edelbrock 1406 - it's already taken apart and soaked and had air blown through. I decided to just go ahead and pull the slant. I haven't yet, but I think it makes more sense to troubleshoot when the desired engine is in. The car isn't really driveable anyways. Just to test it, I started it and just let it sit idling. After 12 minutes (!) the engine stalled. It seems the problem is getting worse. I'm tired of it.

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Transmission looks nice. I don't envy you having to fool with the shift/park cables though! Before you get the V8 in and running, you should get one of those laser red dot thermometer guns. Make a list of stuff to check as soon as it starts. Coil, bulkhead connections, ballast resistor, ignition switch, etc. If/when it quits you could quickly check all of those temps again to see what got hot. It has about got to be electrical. That's about all it could be unless the fuel pump is giving up or the sock on the fuel pickup in the tank stops up after a few minutes. Keep plugging along, and you WILL win! :D
 
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