65 Dart Door latch issue

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68 A

68 A

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Hi,

Working on my '65 Dart, the passenger door latch is giving me an issue. The door will shut tight, but the latch does lock it tight. If I pull the door back as to open it, it will open almost half an inch before the latch will stop it.

I have removed the latch from the door and will include some photos to show what is happening.

The first photo shows the position with the door closed tight

The second photo shows the position when the door is opened and the latching mechanism engages the dog on the striker preventing the door from opening (although the door would be open about 1/2")


Any ideas on how to fix this? There is not enough adjustment on the striker in the door cowl to make any difference.

Also, I would of liked to draw some circles around the areas that I am trying to discuss, does anyone know a good photo editor that can allow me to do this? Apparently the only way picasa thinks you should edit a photo is to crop and filter it...


Thanks,

Steve
 

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Can you adjust the door strike post forward a little. Maybe it's not quite locking fully on it.
 
Can't get it to lock correctly. Its like the gear is off by half a tooth. The striker side mounted on the body won't make up for the amount of adjustment that is needed.

I don't see how anything on the latching mechanism can be adjusted. I just don't understand how this doesn't work correctly.
 
I will look at one I have here. If I see anything I will post MT
 
does door close without striker plate/ latch in? ALL THE WAY? Take off weather seal around door. Does the ratchet mech. ratched corectly, spring loaded? Let us know.

You might need to adjust latch on body out. not in. Try that.
 
The door will close all the way with the latch in or out. I took the rubber moulding off and it doesn't allow the door to close in any farther. The striker plate won't adjust in or out far enough either way to allow the door to be closed so the body lines are correct and be latched.

Close the door tight, pull door back out 1/2" or more before the ratchet catches and need to push the door handle button to open.

I'm considering cutting the gear off the inside, drilling a hole in it so that I can rotate it to where it needs to be and welding it there.

Thanks for the help!
 
68 A said:
The door will close all the way with the latch in or out. I took the rubber moulding off and it doesn't allow the door to close in any farther. The striker plate won't adjust in or out far enough either way to allow the door to be closed so the body lines are correct and be latched.

Close the door tight, pull door back out 1/2" or more before the ratchet catches and need to push the door handle button to open.

I'm considering cutting the gear off the inside, drilling a hole in it so that I can rotate it to where it needs to be and welding it there.

Thanks for the help!
Click to expand...

If you need i have two latches you can have for postage.
Did you move door latch on body out?
 
Out all the way, make sure the dog catches, then back to the corect place. I see in your pics what you are talking about.

Please post pic of latch on body side.
 
Body Side:
 

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Tomorrow I will look at my 66 and compare pics with what you have. I have latch out of car.
What is your distance from the rear of latch to body?
 
Laugh if you want to, but for circle drawing on a photo, try using the Paint program that comes with Windoze.
 
1/2" to the right of the latch to the body in this photo:
 

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The latch should click two times to be fully closed.
 

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here is a shot of mine (on and off the car)

Mine latches/clicks twice. the first latch is a safety latch,that holds the door to the body of the car preventing it swinging open during a corner/turn if not fully latched(and yeah a kid CAN fall out of the car,I saw it happen to my next door neighbor in his 64 falcon). the second latching or click locks the door in closed position. you can pull the door open about 1/2 inch or more if your only on the first latch/click (mis-adjusted or or you have a bad 1st gear tooth on the door jamb side messed up)


there should be little play on the gear but it will rotate only one way easily that's the gear that moves the back side star latch mechanism.
View attachment DSCF4864.jpg


this is where you'll look for damaged teeth
View attachment DSCF4866.jpg

View attachment DSCF4867.jpg

View attachment DSCF4872.jpg

View attachment DSCF4870.jpg

View attachment DSCF4863.jpg

this star gear should move with the outer gear with no play.
View attachment DSCF4876.jpg

View attachment DSCF4875.jpg
 
Definitely does not click twice.

The striker plate does not appear to have any damaged teeth.

No play on the gear at all, just seems like one of the gears is half a tooth off from the other. Gear doesn't appear to be worn either.

I have a neighbor that may have a latch from a '66. I'll check on that.

Thanks!
 
68 A said:
Definitely does not click twice.

The striker plate does not appear to have any damaged teeth.

No play on the gear at all, just seems like one of the gears is half a tooth off from the other. Gear doesn't appear to be worn either.

I have a neighbor that may have a latch from a '66. I'll check on that.

Thanks!
Click to expand...

Strange in deed. When I tried the loose latch, the one in my picture, it only clicked one time as well. But I tried a few times and it was all good, clicking twice. I thought it was strange. There is a lot of enginering in these latches for sure. Let us know what you find!:color:MT
 
Got it fixed tonight. I cut the inside gear off, rounded the hole and spun it a few degrees to get it to latch where it needs to be for the door to close completely and latch there.

I didn't realize until after I had cut it off, that above the star wheel on the latch there is a plastic piece. This piece is spring loaded and didn't like to move. Sprayed some lube on it and now it moves. It appears that this piece is what "pops" the door open when you press the latch. In my first picture from the thread, I thought I had the latch all the way in. It was not. However, the door did completely close before, but would not latch correctly. I still don't think that lubricating that piece would have solved the problem entirely.

Thanks for the input everyone!

Steve
 
when I get one that doesn't want to shut completely, smoothly, I spray it down with brake cleaner, let it dry, spray with rust penetrant, let dry, and apply white g rease. sometimes the part on the post needs a slight adjustment, losses the three bolts with a BIG screwdriver, it will rotate some.

and sometimes the whole deal is woreout!
 
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