I’m thinking since I have the adapter I may just figure out the distance between my current shaft and the top of the adapter. Cut a piece of stock that length, welded it on and then weld the adapter to that. Then the adapter will just slide onto the power steering box. It’s the bulkiness of the Coupler that is my issue. Your thoughts?At the very least you will need the manual shaft for your column or replace the whole column.
The only problem with using the adapter is that it sets the coupler back right under the end of the manifold. It’s not just the shaft. The way it looks there’s no way to have the Cupler sit right there. On others I’ve seen with the manual steering column it’s long enough to put the Cupler right down at the top of the steering box versus my situation where I have the adapter pushing it back upGrind clearance or shim up the mounts.
Looks like you need a manual column and cancel the adapter.The only problem with using the adapter is that it sets the coupler back right under the end of the manifold. It’s not just the shaft. The way it looks there’s no way to have the Cupler sit right there. On others I’ve seen with the manual steering column it’s long enough to put the Cupler right down at the top of the steering box versus my situation where I have the adapter pushing it back up
The coupler is there for when you get flex between the body and frame allowing it to move up and down even the very slightest.I’m thinking since I have the adapter I may just figure out the distance between my current shaft and the top of the adapter. Cut a piece of stock that length, welded it on and then weld the adapter to that. Then the adapter will just slide onto the power steering box. It’s the bulkiness of the Coupler that is my issue. Your thoughts?
Another option some people have used (not my first choice, and only if '65s had a collapsible column), is to extend the shaft out the required amount to eliminate the need for the adapter- but if you do this, be VERY sure that you still have enough engagement in the shaft so it won't separate under driving conditions.
Correct. I have seen another post where they removed the lower two or 3 inches of the outer column to make it fit near the manifold65 is a solid shaft, no collapsing column
The flanges are pretty thick. You could mill material off for clearance. It could be milled at an angle for more effect.I removed a couple inches off mine, switched to the borgesen style coupler to get some room when I had the 318 in the car. worked nicely
View attachment 1715558233 Shimmer the driver side up .38 of an inch. Makes all the difference!!! Plenty of clearance now.
View attachment 1715558237 What’s the best way to get a stuck exhaust stud out? Heat? Already tried double nutting it. No luck.
View attachment 1715558237
Are you using the stock 273 66 and down engine brackets. If you are that is the wrong rubber mount 67 and up. The early mount rubbers are twice as thick.
No, it’s a 340. With 340 metal brackets and I believe 340 rubber as wellAre you using the stock 273 66 and down engine brackets. If you are that is the wrong rubber mount 67 and up. The early mount rubbers are twice as thick.
Ok I am not familiar with those just the early ones for the 273No, it’s a 340. With 340 metal brackets and I believe 340 rubber as well