65 Dart Wagon Conversion to a Sedan Delivery

[65 Dartman]

That would be great.
Please keep me advised.
Thank you,
Steve

Hey Steve - My friend stopped by today to give me a hand with the headliner. Asked him about the vent box. He said it was a 2 handed operation - go through the door opening, position the bottom in between and slightly above the stops at the bottom, then pushing or pulling the j hook near the top to give it some tension while screwing the bolt in at the bottom. I recall it can be a little tricky with the seat in the way but my front seats are out which made it easier. Hope this helps; let us know how it works for you.

CONTINUED FROM LAST WEDNESDAY - On to the headliner - we continued to fight with it for about an hour. I noticed the headliner was bunching up where the bows were supposed to go in the pockets at the roof rail. I told my friend I wondered the listings were interfering with the rods proper orientation against the roof.

So even though the headliner was hanging there we trimmed the listing 2nd from the back and wow! The bow snapped in place. 7 bows later the headliner was in place.

Someone mentioned slit the listing before starting the installation. Sometimes you gotta do what you gotta do. Need to finish the installation at the Front, secure the sides and steam as/if necessary to remove any wrinkles

 

[66Dvert]

Hi Steve

6 years ago when I first installed the air box ! My how time flies! I don’t recall how I got the J hooks into place. I did have to remove the air box a couple of months ago to route my Dakota Digital oil pressure and water temp harnesses behind it. I fought with the J hooks for hiurs and finally gave up. My Mopar friend stopped by one day and said he’d take a crack at it. 15 minutes later it was secured in place. Let me get ahold of him and find out hiw he managed it so quick. I’ll get back ti you

J hook goes over this top hat in the cowl and is a slight pain in the behind to hook since it has to 90 the lip or it rolls off soooooooo easy ,been ther done that a few times too!

 

[65 Dartman]

The headliner at the front is now stretched, glued and secured in place over all the little hooks at the top of the windshield. Ready to start stretching and tucking in the sides starting over the doors

 

[65 Dartman]

For those following the build (and anyone who’s late to the party), it was time to start tucking the headliner into the side panels with all the teeth that secure the headliner. I had the stock ones over the doors and previously bought some more from several members and installed them from the door back to the rear window. So starting at the front and working from side to side between each bow, we got the headliner stretched, trimmed the excess material and secured in the panels with the teeth. The end result - headliner installed with virtually no wrinkles

Next was the sunvisors and rear view mirror assembly. A long time ago I decided I didn’t want the stock sunviisors as they didn’t provide the coversge I wanted around the mirror. So I decided to use early A convertible sunvisors, which are reproductions. The arms are gorgeous standard reproductions I bought from Laysons, end tips from DMT and a very nice original convertible mirror base I’ve had for at least 20 years. The mirror itself is a nice Dat/Night model.

 

[65 Dartman]

Taking it easy today by assembling the front bumper. It as well as the bumper guards came off my 65 Dart convertible (RIP). I had them re-chromed back in 1990 by Frankford Plating in Philadelphia PA. They look as great today as they did when I got them back from the platers. I used stainless steel hardware - of course - to install the bumper guards to the bumper. In my stash of NOS parts I Had a set of NOS turn signal housings with NOS lenses. Installed them with stainless steel hardware. . New bumper bolts wilk finish everything nicely

 

[65 Dartman]

Back in February I assumed the tilt steering column was on to stay. That’s what I get for assuming. I figured I’ll double check everything to make sure the ignition switch and the Hi/Low mechanism worked as they should before installing the steering wheel. After really tightening the U Strap to the dash, both rods were binding. So out came the column, not once, but at least in and out at least 5 or 6 times. The Hi/Low rod was relatively easy to fix - cut the rod and rotate it so that it was next to the U Strap and secure the rods where it was cut with a sleeve. The ignition switch rod was considerably more difficult due to the geometry of how the rod was shaped and it’s original location. I ended up fabricating a new rod so that it was lower close to the Hi/Low rod. It’s not the prettiest fabrication in the world but it works. So for the 5th or 6th time the column is in place. It’ll still need to be dropped a bit to install the double D shaft between the U joints on the column and PS box when the K frame gets installed.

I had previously bought an adapter that fit the Chrysler tilt column and accepts a Grant steering wheel. Said adapter has multiple mounting holes to accept different steering wheels. I bought 2 5mm machine screw and cut the head off. I’ll use them to act as a guide for the wheel and horn button. It took a couple of try' using the screw/guide to get the wheel aligned with the adapter. So the steering wheel is installed. No pictures of working on the butchery of the Hi/Low and ignition rods but do have one of the Grant steering wheel in place. It’s supposed to be a knock off of a Tuff Wheel

 

[65 Dartman]

Lots of progress today since i spent a good part of yesterday at the Ophthalmologist.

Dug out of my stash if NOS and excellent used parts, the licence plate light housing, NOS lens cover and it’s gasket. Used stainless steel fasteners (of course) to assemble the lens and gasket after installing a new bulb. Then installed the assembly to the Tri Cities re-plated rear bumper. I also had my NOS bumper guards done at the same time by tri Cities so they would match the bumper. A factory bumper guards optioned wagon (and possibly other Plymouth models) had 2 mounting holes for guards of which one hole doubled to install the bumper braces. Using stainless hardware installed the guards leaving the lower bolt in place but loose to install the bumper braces

Next on the agenda was to install the passenger kick panel and insulation. The insulation is from DMT and is a super quality reproduction and fit perfectly. The kick panel is a one time super reproduction my good friend Frank @FWDLK Frank made for me and also fits perfectly

Next was to install the passenger side carpet hold down, a quality reproduction from Laysons. Because I replaced the front and rear floor right to the pinchweld, had to drill new mounting holes. Prior to drilling needed to heat a screwdriver through the hold down into the carpet so the carpet wouldn’t get caught in the drill bit. Using the two original holes at te rear, got all the remaining holes drilled and the holddown installed

.

Finally got the 3 point seat belt installed at the floor over the carpet holddown

Figured I’d tackle the trim that is installed above and to each side of the rear window. Broke 2 of the 6 clips and 1 was never installed as I finally installed the upper trim above the rear window. The lazy SOB’s at the factory left out one of the 3 clips on each side that secures the side trim. But got them installed

All in all a very productive day

 

[65 Dartman]

I had previously bought the used rear tailgate window rubber seal from Lee Robinson who included what our Aussie friends call the “Bailey Channel”. After removing the seal from the Bailey Channel, I installed it to mine

To finish the day my buddy cane.by to see what was going on. I enlisted his help on installing the passenger seat. Found it was more or less a 2 person job with an underneath person (him) poking around with a lineup tool to find the holes in the carpet. The carpet apparently moved while we were installing the carpet holddown. In the end - success! Passenger seat is in and secured with the correct seat stud nuts. Getting closer every day!

 

[65 Dartman]

As soon as i my help (my buddy stopping by) to help install the passenger remote control mirror (an Aussie RHD mirror), I can think about finishing the passenger side. I need some dum dum to install the water barrier on the passenger (and driver’s door), then I can attach the trim to my door panel. It’s a reproduction GT door panel in 65 light blue metallic to match the seats and other interior pieces with dark blue carpet matching the floor carpet. It was a special order as it didn’t have the hole punch out for the window crank, as vu I have power windows

 

[410Dart]

Incredible project! I love the panel van idea.

 

[65 Dartman]

Although it’s been awhile since I updated the thread, I (and my buddy when he stops by), have been taking care of various little stuff. Got my cad plated windshield washer nozzles and reproduction ribbed washer hose kit out. Of course the hoses were too long and needed cut to size. So nozzles, hoses and little “F” shaped diverter installed as well as the hose from the bew washer oump to the duverter. It was way to long so instead if trimming it, I routed it long the wiring harness up to the diverter.m, pretty much hiding it. The hose from the pump to the washer bottle is too small in the internal diameter to fit either the larger in nipple on the puml or on the bottle. I’ve got a used one I’ll have to dig out

I was telling an internet friend that I needed to find a home for the power seat controls. So I cane up with a panel for the seat controls in front of the seat mounted to the rack. The best location would have been on the side but lack of room with the rack, the seat and side panel left me no choice. My internet friend said add a couple of switches for something “just in caseq”

This panel covering the side of the rack when the door is opened is a work in progress. In the picture the seat is upside down on the workbench

I scrubbed my GT/convertible armrest pads but they still didn’t pass muster. So out came the vinyl light blue metallic dye. They look 100% better and look virtually brand new. I attached them to my re-chromed armrest bases (not shown) and ready to install after the door cards get installed.

Before anything can be done on the inside of the doors, the mirrors need to be installed. Friday my friend stopped by and I enlisted him to help install the outside mirrors as it was a 2 person job for some of the procedure. So my Australian driver’s door (my passenger door) mirror and my left door mirrors are installed. We’ll see how much I can’t see in the mirrors after I install the driver’s seat.

Passenger:

Drivers:

Before starting in the passenger door, I installed my custom sill panel fabricated by member @66Dvert. Driver’s to be installed soon.

And finally ready to start on completing the doors. First step was install the water barrier. My wife provided the plastic from her camping supplies. With the dum dum I ordered, the plastic was easy to install snd trim as needed

Now ready for the door cards, which brings me to yesterday. First was to install the trim strip that separates the carpet and vinyl. Legendary included a “tool” (actually a bent nail) to finish opening the trim strip holes through the carpet. . I used a heated small screwdriver which went through the carpet like a hot knife through butter. I got as far as installing each trim strip in both doir cards, calling it a day till Monday

 

[65 Dartman]

Finished installing both door cards today. I bought them as least 10 years ago as a special order from Legendary. I Ordered them without the opening for the window winder opening as I was going with power windows. They are based on the Dart GT and feature the light blue metallic vinyl with dark blue carpet at the bottom to match the main floor carpet. Other than they didn’t have enough clip openings in the back to match what was in the door. Maybe it was the difference between a 2 door hardtop and a 2 door sedan door. Eventually got them installed. Much easier was the GT armrests and reproduction handles. I’ve extremely happy with the outcome. I need to ream out the openings for the door nameplates. Since this is the Dart GT they never built, I’ve taken the liberty of usiing Dart GT nameplates and calling it a 1 of none Dart GT

Passenger door

Driver’s Door:

 

[dr dodge]

looks amazing
you inspire me to get stuff done
wonderful craftsmanship

 

[65 Dartman]

Lowered both door windows this morning using a jumper cables with an external battery in prep to install the inner and outer catwhiskers. One minor mishap when one if the catwhiskers fell down inside the door. After removing the handle, armrest and door card that got installed yesterday, retrieved the catwhisker, got both installed and reassembled the door stuff. Ni harm ni foul. Passenger side went smooth. You probably can’t see them but they’re there. And the windows still roll up nice and smooth

Started applying the adhesive to the rubber weatherstrip for the tailgate and even after cleaning the weatherstrip with lacquer thinner, it still would stick to the body came to the conclusion the rubber was probably silicon infused rubber. I had some trunk weatherstripping that I never installed to my old 65 Dart GT. Got most installed with about a foot left to do. It’ll be finished tomorrow and hape to get the tailgate l, motor and glass tomorrow. I’ll likely need a jumper harness to work the gkass

 

[65 Dartman]

My friend was here today to give me a hand with the tailgate. Yes, we had some problems with the hardware that secures the tailgate to the hinges. Yes, we had some problems with getting the torsion rod seated in the retainer. Yes, we had to loosen some of the hardware to shove the tailgate over to the right no more than an 1/8 of an inch and it was tough to move it that little bit. BUT, the tailgate is installed, aligned very nicely, the driver’s side support opens and closes like it should and the torsion rod moves up and down like it should. We left it shut tight agains the new weatherstrip as I had to slam it pretty hard to securely close. In a couple of days we’ll get the motor installed. I’ll make an auxiliary cable to power the motor like I did for the door motors

 

[RustyRatRod]

The headliner looks really good. You got more patience than I do.

 

[dr dodge]

an amazing job
the whole thing great looking
and the story is just as good

 

[65 Dartman]

The headliner looks really good. You got more patience than I do.

Didn’t even have to steam it!

 

[65 Dartman]

So yesterday was very productive.

Received the brake booster guard and boot from DMT

Which is assembled to the booster arm

After which I secured the booster to the firewall

Then after reaming out the holes fir the door nameplates, the reproduction DART GT nameplates I ordered from Laysons got installed. I know this style wagon never was a GT but it should have been!

Next was TO THE finish the tailgate . I installed the window motor. I forgot how difficult it was way back when to remove the lower mounting bolt. There is an access hole BUT it’s in the wrong place - too high to get a socket on the bolt. So like during removal I had to squeeze my hand between the motor and inner panel of the tailgate and turn the rachet a small bit at a time. My friend showed up and we set the glass in place. Using a couple if jumper wires, i used the key on the tailgate to raise the motor up enough to pry the arms into the slots on the bracket that holds the glass. Found that this little part is defective. It’s supposed to prevent raising the glass when the tailgate is open. A jumper between the terminals on the inside solved that problem. I will remember not to raise the glass when the tailgate us open! Then installed the inner catwhisker. The outer and left inner taillight lens are NOS while the right inner was an original faded lens. I happened to find one qfrom Andy Bernbaum so I immediately ordered it. I tried to take pictures of the gkass but it just didn’t come out with the din light at the back