66 dart electrical problems

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pyrojim

pyrojim

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New harness' from headlights to taillights, everything is hooked up/ grounded. Running a charger at 10 amps for power. Have relays installed in the headlights and convertible top. Here's what's not working. Parking lights, turn signals, stop light and when I turn on the left blinker, the horn goes off? Lol. All circuits seen to run back to the turn signal switch. So, what do you think? New t s switch? How would one test it?
Any help is appreciated.
 
Mine did the same thing
check your flasher
hope this helps
 
The horn going off is quite amusing....LOL. I would suspect that to be caused by crossed wires, probably in the 10 pin column connector where both the horn wire and the wires to the turn signals go through.

The parking lights come from the headlight switch; if the headlights work, then it is probably the headlight switch, or the wire from the headlight switch from the P terminal if the front parking lights don't work, and the wire from the R terminal of the rear parking lights don't work.

And the turn signals and brake go through the turn switch and the column connector mentioned above, and are both powered from the same fuse. That fuse's wire may not be connected right or the fuse or its holder are not good, or thr turn signal switch is not good. If the dome light works, it is not the fuse as it also feeds that.

Find your diagram here: www.mymopar.com And get to tracing, either by visual checks or with a 12v test light or meter, or a combo of techniques; hard to do anything else. Seems like all would be good with new wiring.......
 
Thanks you all. Have the diagrams. And like I said, ALL HARNESS' are new except the turn signal switch. Did Shake me up a bit when the horn went off. Nothing to do but smile.
 
You may have a / some harness wires crossed if the horn fires off the TS switch.

Here's what I'd do......

1......Check the brake light switch is "cold" that is not somehow activated

2.......Remove both flashers from their sockets

The above two steps should remove all power coming "to" the TS switch

The only thing left is the horn, as power goes to one end of the horn relay coil, and the other end normally goes to the horn button, grounding to activate.

If it's hooked to the wrong harness terminal, you could get what's going on there.
 
Horn should be black according to chart
 

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pyrojim said:
Thanks you all. Have the diagrams. And like I said, ALL HARNESS' are new except the turn signal switch. Did Shake me up a bit when the horn went off. Nothing to do but smile.
Click to expand...
Yeah I read that the harness is new, but that is not a gurantee it is indeed 100% right; it's too easy to insert a wire pair swapped, and I doubt that they bother with a complete test on these 'consumer' grade harnesses. I hope no one was under the hood when you activated the turn signal!
 
Ok. Double checked the harness and steering column connections. All good. Started at the bulb sockets with a tester and worked my way backwards. Nothing at the sockets, the plugs, the bulkhead connector. I do have power to the light green in the TS switch which I believe feeds the park lights in front. But, no park lights. Activate the turn signal, no turn signal but I can hear the horn relay activate (I unplugged the horns). I guess I'll order a new TS switch and see what happens. Also, still no stop light. Checked the bulbs, running lights come on but not the brake lights. Gotta be the switch. Thanks all, I'll keep you posted!
 
Last dumb question. If I follow the yellow w tracer out of the park lights to the bulkhead connector, why does it enter at U why doesn't it follow U on the other side???
 

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Might be a mistake. Even the OEM manuals had a mistake one or two years, where the horn relay wire magically changed color at the bulkhead. Check the factory manual. As I said you can download it at MyMopar.

About page 267 (8-103 through 8-106)

"U" in the bulkhead is wire "L6" yellow / tracer, goes to the headlight switch.
 
Okay. So, pulled the bulkhead connectors in the engine and sure enough one is in U and one is in V. Could it be that simple? The manual (real manual) does show both going through U? If I move the switch side to U, what's the worst that could happen? Like I said, not an electrical kind of guy, but not afraid to try to sort things out. Note the bottom connector and the location of the terminal in conjunction to the connector from the engine harness?
 

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Regardless of where the manual says "what cavity" the bulkhead uses, the wire has to go where the wire has to go. In other words, identify the power wire coming from the headlight switch to the bulkhead, and make sure that wire connects to whatever wire ends up at the parking lights.

It seems as if in this case the factory manual is correct, as they "usually" are.
 
Recently I had the no headlight experience in a field car I resurrected. Lights had been working fine and simply quit. It turned out to be the Hi/Low dimmer switch. All headlight power (but not park light function) from the dash switch is routed to it first before it goes out the bulkhead connector.

The stated fact that the turn switch initiates the horn screams crossed wire. However it could be as simple as the moveable portions of the switch are somehow engaging/moving the copper horn ring on the underside of the steering wheel to ground. I'd consider pulling the wheel, if on, to test this as well as to diagnose the turn switch itself. The copper horn ring behind the steering wheel does wear out typically going to ground and turning on the horn permanently. Or some folks don't realize that during reassembly of their restored sterring wheel that this copper disk needs to be electrically isolated from the steer steering wheel body at reassembly.

Typically if you fix the blinkers the brake lights will work as the are both controlled by the turn switch mechanism. To diagnose the turn switch I'd separate it from the connector to the main harness, power it up with a jumper wire and using your test light activate the switch see if the test light blinks appropriately. Also on brake lights one can't forget the activation switch at the pedal. these can become corroded over time and/or do wear out. I've had good success in fixing these by simply rotating the movable portion back and forth in a clock/counterclock wise fashion to remove built-up corrosion that can prevent it from sending a signal. this is even true of 50 year old NOS pieces that have sat on a shelf. New yes, but time takes it's toll especially if improperly stored.

Hope some of this helps.
 
Well I changed the position of the yellow/white in the bulkhead connector to the U position, YAY!! Power to the parking lights. (sort of) One is lit, one is not? The one that isn't has power to only one side in the socket? My head hurts. I think it's miller time. Thanks to everyone that chimed in!!
 
So I took another look at the 10 pin connector and sure enough, It matches the old harness, but not the new one. So, I pulled all the pins, matched by color according to the "real" manual and what do you know. Everything is working now except the flashers and one park light? Traced the flasher and definitely has power? So, all that being said, what the hell does this green light mean??
 

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Not familiar with 66 "Left turn indicator?"

Do brake lights work?

Might be crossed up in the turn sig. switch connector

Your parking lamp problem might be right at the socket. I guess? you understand how the offset pin bulbs (1034 / 1157) work?

Pull both lamps apart and compare voltages to contacts. Make certain they "match." Only way I know to do that is visual inspection.

And of course check or try another bulb and make sure you have the correct bulb
 
I do not understand how the two pin bulbs work? I pulled the bulbs and have power to one pin in each socket. Passenger side is lit, driver side is not.?, Brake lights are working now. License plate, back up, tail lights are all fine. Just that pesky running lights/blinkers!!Thanks for your help 67dart273. Appreciate it
 
OK the socket must be ground.

The bulb must be correct. There are several numbers but two are the 1034 and 1157

What these essentially are is TWO bulbs in one. One contact feeds a small low wattage filament through the ground shell for tail and park

The second contact feeds a larger higher wattage filament for turn and stop

"Things" happen. Socket shell not grounded. Wrong bulb or bad bulb. Sometimes the bulbs can throw you for a loop. IF the internal interconnect for the ground shell comes loose, you now have two filaments in series across the contacts, which can give weird results

Probably worse is when the two contacts internally become shorted together. This an also happen in the socket
 
Checked both bulbs, I believe they're 1157 amber. They're good. Checked ground. Removed the housing and used the Dremel to scuff a small spot on the housing and bumper. I am getting power, but only to one pin per socket, and it only fires the pass. side.? But there is power on the driver side, just seems to be the wrong pin. I'm
Going to take up the cause tomorrow. Re check everything. I think the primary feed starts at the passenger side and jumps to the driver side. My head hurts!
 
On the bright side (pun intended) headlights/brights work great! I got the relay kit from rob. Awesome!!
 
Mmmm, check the 2 bulbs to be sure both are oriented properly in their sockets. And check to see if the pin that is receiving power is the SAME pin in both sockets. There are 2 filaments in the bulb, one fed from each pin and both going to ground.. a bad ground at the non-working socket will cause it to not work. (But the blinker would not work right either.)

Insert the bulbs properly and check the voltage at the pin on each while the bulbs are inserted; you could have a poor wire connection from the junction of the 2 parking light wires and going to the non-working light.

Did you swap the bulbs to see if the problem stays on the same side?

Find an owner's manual for the green light; does it say "TURN' in the lettering in the light? If so, I will guess it is the older style common turn indicator (one indicator that blinks for either side's blinker).
 
Done! Bad ground on the socket and the new harness' had some wires out of place but all good. I pulled the light housing, got a sharp pointed punch and dimpled it up between the socket and the housing!
Thanks again to all that chimed in!
Jim
 
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