67 Barracuda Big Block K frame keep it or change it ??

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383FormulaS67

383FormulaS67

Bob
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I've read the 67 K frame for my 383 Barracuda was one year only, and can't add power steering ??? I've looked into QA1, but do not like how weak/flimsy it is, but love the idea of easy access to everything. Anybody switch to a new tubular K frame, and drive it yet? I want to add: headers, power steering and brakes. I assume finding a 68-69 Big block K frame is what I need to do??




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Why cant you add power steering? Just put a Borgeson steering box in there. Smaller than the factory mopar steering chuck, should fit just fine. Only thing that makes your 67 big block K a 1 year only big block K frame, is probably the idler arm mount tab. 68 up it is different much improved. I am converting a 67 slant sux K frame to a 68-72 small block V8 K frame, heres pix of the 1 year only idler mount compared to the one i will be fitting up with a jig and installing. Primered one on the left is the 68-72 idler mount.

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Why would you want to ruin a big block Barracuda? Buy a small block car and cut it up all you want. I will buy the 67 k-frame from you if it comes to that point. If you are modifying it for cornering change the whole suspension. No reason you can't put a power steering box on your present k-frame if that's what you want. Plenty of people out there who would swap you the manual box and column for it...
 
He said "power steering and brakes" which I assume meant power brakes. Does the vacuum brake booster fit w/ big block? How does aftermarket k member change available space at firewall? We can't just poke a 5 course meal in the Scooby Doo lunch box. Where theres a will theres a way... electric power steering? hydro boost brake assist?
If I had a OEM big block build and wanted all those "side dishes" I would buy, or trade for, another car. A slant 6 build offers ample space for headers and anything else you desire, less meat and more taters LOL
 
Adding a borgeson power steering box does not modify the K frame or pitman arm at all HemiSSdart. Its a bolt in swap leaving more room for headers. How is he cutting up a 67 big block K frame doing this?? Adding a borgeson box and power steering pump is unbelievable and reversible in probably an afternoon and won't leave anyting that's modded in its wake.

As far as modding the 67 only idler mount, i was only showing him the only difference between a 67 big block K compared to the 68 up.
 
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Additionally i am sure he could add power brakes using the mopar performance master cylinder firewall adaptor that moves it over slightly to clear valve covers, as well as using a double diaphragm booster thats smaller in diameter, and use an adjustable length brake pushrod. All this is easily reversable and is a bolt in. So i am not sure what you mean about ruining the car.

I could see you being up in arms if he was talking about minitubbing or back halfing it, because thats NOT easily reversable.
 
My 383 Formula S has factory power brakes. I have been doing factory 383 A-Body's for 45 years and too many times I have seen one modification lead to the flame hammer coming out after a while...

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Yep I get that I really do got a 69 notchback Coupe that somebody hack butchered and stuck aluminum wheel tubs and pop rivets in it back in the 80s I'm trying unfuk this 1 but AMD makes all the metal unlike the way it used to be
 
383FormulaS67 said:
I've read the 67 K frame for my 383 Barracuda was one year only, and can't add power steering ??? I've looked into QA1, but do not like how weak/flimsy it is, but love the idea of easy access to everything. Anybody switch to a new tubular K frame, and drive it yet? I want to add: headers, power steering and brakes. I assume finding a 68-69 Big block K frame is what I need to do??




View attachment 1715317004
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Not to hijack, I am looking for clarification.

This is the first I have heard of the QA1 unit being weak and/or flimsy. Can you expound on this please? I have the QA1 K member and suspension pencilled out for my build.
 
I know this doesn't answer your questions, just an fyi.
I have Shumacher headers, fit great even with a 4 speed.
Manual KH brakes, rebuilt years ago, stops great, straight, no issues.
Manual steering, I just have to turn the wheel the opposite direction as the car is moving so I'm not breaking my arm or the wheel, for example when backing up out of a parking spot.
 
Ottmundr said:
Not to hijack, I am looking for clarification.

This is the first I have heard of the QA1 unit being weak and/or flimsy. Can you expound on this please? I have the QA1 K member and suspension pencilled out for my build.
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The QA1 K frame is not weak or flimsy. It weighs almost as much as a stock K frame, it's less than 8 lbs lighter. And it's much stiffer than an unreinforced stock K frame.

I suspect the OP thinks it's "weak and flimsy" simply because it looks like there's a lot less material- the tubes make it look like it isn't as strong as the wider/thicker looking stock K frame. But the stock K is basically just stamped sheet metal, and in unreinforced form it's pretty flexible.

A friend of mine has a QA1 K frame in his '67 Barracuda. It's a very well made piece. I wouldn't necessarily buy one just to replace an original K frame in good condition, I think reinforcing the stock K frame is probably the best bang for your buck. But if I needed a K frame, I'd buy the QA1 before I went looking for a stock replacement.
 
Of course I haven't bought an aftermarket k either.
But agree with others, original BB, A body?
Don't mess with it too much, I might modify the idler arm mount to the '68 style and stop there.
If that's not what you want, at least try to trade/sell the car to someone who'll appreciate its rarity.
If I had the budget, the Borgeson box would be next.
 
Original big block car i wouldent cut up. Thats what slant 6 and 318 cars are for. My 67 was a slanty, going to be a 408. My sons 69 was a 318, but we are going to build it his way. No pedigree in either like a factory BB car has.

and if it's a numbers matching big block please keep the original drive line with the car unmolested
 
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Ottmundr said:
Not to hijack, I am looking for clarification.

This is the first I have heard of the QA1 unit being weak and/or flimsy. Can you expound on this please? I have the QA1 K member and suspension pencilled out for my build.
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I read in online reviews from customers, and do not like the overall construction to support the big block, also using a floor jack frequently to lift it up, is why I changed my mind..
 
moparmat2000 said:
Original big block car i wouldent cut up. Thats what slant 6 and 318 cars are for. My 67 was a slanty, going to be a 408. My sons 69 was a 318, but we are going to build it his way. No pedigree in either like a factory BB car has.

and if it's a numbers matching big block please keep the original drive line with the car unmolested
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Thanks Matt, I have no intention of cutting it up., It had inner fender headers, and I'm stuck fixing that mess, while I'm knee deep in 52 year old grease and oil, it's what to do with the front suspension, and make it safer/smoother/cheaply...Ha!
 
matthon said:
I know this doesn't answer your questions, just an fyi.
I have Shumacher headers, fit great even with a 4 speed.
Manual KH brakes, rebuilt years ago, stops great, straight, no issues.
Manual steering, I just have to turn the wheel the opposite direction as the car is moving so I'm not breaking my arm or the wheel, for example when backing up out of a parking spot.
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Yes,.. my 67 has manual factory disc brakes and is so, so, but the manual steering is a ***** with that 383 on radials
 
Borgeson power steering box. Smaller and lighter than stock, direct bolt in. If going w headers, it makes your life easier.
 
moparmat2000 said:
Why cant you add power steering? Just put a Borgeson steering box in there. Smaller than the factory mopar steering chuck, should fit just fine. Only thing that makes your 67 big block K a 1 year only big block K frame, is probably the idler arm mount tab. 68 up it is different much improved. I am converting a 67 slant sux K frame to a 68-72 small block V8 K frame, heres pix of the 1 year only idler mount compared to the one i will be fitting up with a jig and installing. Primered one on the left is the 68-72 idler mount.

View attachment 1715317010

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Yes, looked into Borg, originally just got googly eyes on all the new tubular suspension today. My K frame is dented heavy on the bottom side, so it's what to do with it: keep, replace, upgrade...
 
HemiSSDart said:
Why would you want to ruin a big block Barracuda? Buy a small block car and cut it up all you want. I will buy the 67 k-frame from you if it comes to that point. If you are modifying it for cornering change the whole suspension. No reason you can't put a power steering box on your present k-frame if that's what you want. Plenty of people out there who would swap you the manual box and column for it...
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Nothing being cut up, just looking at bolt on parts.
 
HemiSSDart said:
My 383 Formula S has factory power brakes. I have been doing factory 383 A-Body's for 45 years and too many times I have seen one modification lead to the flame hammer coming out after a while...

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Lucky you. Mine has factory disc, but I'm just interested in adding a booster, how and what is the issue I have. Can I just add a booster, where can I source parts needed? Thanks!
 
I would love to see what a big block factory K frame set of mounts that are welded onto the big block K look like. I took a 67 slanty K and made a V8 K out of it. I had built a jig off a 68 V8 K frame to locate the mounts in the correct spot. The "spider" uses K frame mounting bolts to set the jig correctly. As you can see its locating the V8 passenger side mount. The drivers side is the same on slanty and small block.

Point i am getting at is, you may be able to find a really clean 67 slanty K frame if your looking to keep it somewhat restored. Or better yet a 68-72 slanty K thats not dented up for the improved idler arm mount. I mean people will just about give those slanty K's away. Use your big block K as a template to make your own "spider" to locate the big block mounts. Then cut the old slanty mounts off the good k frame, cut your big block mounts off the dented K frame, and move them to the slanty frame.

You might have to do some different welding to beef it up like by the LCA pin mount tubes on the aft end, and i think performance K frames had a plain washer that was booger welded on them somewhere just as an identifier so assembly line people knew it was a beefed up one with more welds

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Heres how the passenger mount is located on the spider. This is so it only goes in one spot relative to the OEM V8 K frame i templated off of.

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383FormulaS67 said:
I read in online reviews from customers, and do not like the overall construction to support the big block, also using a floor jack frequently to lift it up, is why I changed my mind..
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The QA1 is perfectly capable of supporting the big block. More so than the stock K frame. What was done to beef up the original K-frame design to support a big block? Nothing. A big block K and a slant 6 K are identical except for the engine mount locations. Nothing was done to strengthen the K for the big block compared to the slant 6 or small blocks.

As for jacking the car up, that’s exactly why your original K-frame is caved in. Seems like that’s not a good argument for staying stock. Sure, you can weld a skid plate onto the stock K to reinforce it (which is what I do with all of mine). But you could do that to the QA1 too.
 
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