67 Barracuda dash wireing

[Barracuda67]

I have problem with my dash electrical. I have no turn signal indicator lights, no high beam indicator, no dash lights, no temp, no oil pressure, no gas gage.
have had dash out couple times trying to resolve this with no luck. (it has been like this since I purchased the car... 20+ yrs ago... time to fix it lol)
So dash is out again.
It seems like I have power where it should be yet no worky worky. How does dash ground? I have wiring schematic but no luck solving problem yet.
Ideas?
Also there is a flat plug with three wires on it on left side of printed circuit brd that I cant find in schematic and would like to know what is for.

 

[67Dart273]

Might be multiple problems, but my first thought on getting down this road is LACK OF GROUND. The only thing that originally grounded the OEM clusters was "luck" and the mounting screws. Attach a ground pigtail to the cluster, and bolt it to the column support or dash frame

 

[4spdragtop]

Here's a pic of back of my 67 bezel. The 3 prong flat connector leads to 3 dash lights and the hi-beam indicator.
For better grounds as 67Dart273 mentioned. You can create a daisy of grounds and attach them tp circuit board mount screws.

 

[Barracuda67]

Well it is multiple problems. dash light, high beam and signal are working now. found light switch and plug with corrosion on pins. cleaned up and fixed that part. then unplugged everything I get my hands on and checked and reseated.
Appears there must of been some dampness got in there a couple times over last 50 yrs. lol.
Move on to gas gage tomorrow. since I have dash out anything I can test from here?
Thanks for all your input

 

[mvh]

Actually, there should be a fairly hefty black ground wire going to one of the studs on the circuit board. Or maybe it's a screw -- it's been a while since I was behind a dash. Though I'm going back in pretty soon -- this 'vert has some of the symptoms you mentioned.

 

[67Dart273]

There was no ground originally that I'm aware of. The only "hefty" wire going to a stud is one of the ammeter wires. That is HOT not a ground

These clusters have a bad habit of developing a few problems. After all, how old ARE these girls?

I guess this is a Rallye? dash?

If so, the voltage regulator / limiter for the temp/ fuel/ oil gauge is INSIDE the fuel gauge. It is possible to defeat that and use an external one. Google it

http://rt-eng.com/rte/index.php/RTE_Limiter_Faq

On my 67 (non Rallye) had the following problems

harness connector pins broken or loose repair as necessary. See here

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=234045

On mine (external instrument limiter) the socket fingers were not making contact with the board and I had to solder jumpers across

The gauge stud nuts were loose on a couple. Replace the nuts and loosen/ tighten several times to scrub the board copper clean

Likewise, clean the bulb socket board area, bend the socket fingers and clean, or replace the sockets. Good time to replace the bulbs.

 

[RedFish]

The hefty black wire is on one side of the ALT' gauge and is hot. It's black because this side of the gauge is where current does eventually reach grounds after going through nearly everything else.
If you want to add a chassis ground wire, the best location is the lower screw at center pod. Approx 4 inches below, add a male female spade connection for service disconnect. Then enough wire to attach ground behind left kick panel.
Although all 6 of the little screws that hold the circuit boards on the housing are chassis ground points but.... those screws aren't long enough and the pot metal threads aren't strong enough for adding/securing a ring terminal and toothed washer. Just carefully remove them, clean the copper pad where they contact and clean their kept washer then carefully reinstall.
There's yet another reason why we shouldn't add a bunch of wires all over the back of this panel. Enough said for now.

 

[cudajim]

If you have the dash panel out test everything on the bench. You can supply 12 volts and ground to the gas guage then check your temp, gas & oil pressure by temporarily grounding their negative lead (better if you use a small resistor value in series). You can also check all the bulbs. While you're at it pull the fuse block down, pull all fuses, give it a blast of WD-40 and make sure everything is making contact. It would also help to check all your connections at the firewall, especially the fat black & red wires which supply main power through the ammeter.

 

[Tony Fields]

Maybe overkill but I did this with ground wires.

 

[RedFish]

Most definitely overkill Tony. Too many live threaded studs for wires to chafe against and too many fragile bulb sockets for wire to route around.
I'm going to be totally truthful here... I did pretty much the same thing ( with a much smaller wire ofcourse ). It was my electrical engineer brother who showed me how wrong it was.