67 barracuda questions

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powerman330

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Me and my dad are currently restoring a 67 barracuda fastback. the other day my grandfather told me i could take the motor and rearend out of a 67 plymouth sport fury that he had sitting behind his house. my question is what do i need to do, to be able to use these parts. the motor is a 383 and the rear is a 8 3/4". are these parts even able to be put into my car?? i have heard that i will need a new K-member and switch over to a manual steering box to run that motor. thanks
 
You can buy motor mounts and headers (also an issue) from Schumacher Creative Services to adapt the big block to your K-member. The 8 3/4 rear housing and axles would need to be shortened to work in your A-body. In addition the spring mounts would have to be moved and a driveshaft cut to fit. There`s some 69 A bodies that have power steering but a manual box would be the way to go. There`s a lot to adding a big block to these cars because once you get the engine and transmission in ,you have to upgrade the brakes, suspension, cooling, differential, and everything else that takes the added load of weight and power.
 
thanks for the help. now do you think its worth doing all of that just to have the big block?? we were initially going to put a crate 360 in but since the motor and the rear is free we thought we might as well give it a shot. we thought it might save us a few bucks by going with the 383. your thoughts??
 
Yeah, I agree with cuda67bnl, put in the crate 360 but still upgrade the rearend, brakes, and suspension. You can keep the power steering too! The 360 will make good power so you`ll need compatible gear to handle it. Is the car presently a smallblock? If so, the transition will be much easier.
 
for starters, either engine you go with, you need conversion mounts/brackets. what engine is in the cuda now? the rear should be changed, however, a c-body rear has to be cut, the axles cut and the spring perches moved in. if you plan to go to bbp up front and in the rear, you need to think how you want to do this. an a-body 8 3/4" rear can get newer bbp axles but you need all b-body drums, back plates, shoes, etc. or you can get a 73-76 a-body 8 1/4" axle that is already bbp.

start the list of what you want then see what you need and if it might be too much. planning on paper is the best way to go about any conversion.
 
The 360 would be cheaper and easier, as far as the work involved.
 
right now the car has a 273 in it. we are getting ready to send the body away to get sandblasted and then painted. has far as the rear goes...we have all the tools to shorter the rear and we are going to be going with disc brakes all around. i talk to my dad alil bit ago and he is dead set on putting the 383 in and making it fuel injected. so from what i am hearing we need Schumacher Creative Services mounts and headers, fuel system upgrade, cooling system upgrade, suspension upgrade. this is my dad's dream car that he has had for over 30 years so its time to make it the way he wants.

do you guys recommend a fuel injection system? i know holley and edlebrock make one i didn't know if anyone had any perference?
 
Hey, if dad is footing the bill and has the tools and techniques it takes to do the swap then GO FOR IT ! Start with Edelbrock for an injection system, from there they basically just go up. Keep the updates coming!
 
Wasn`t there an article about how to fuel inject your 440 in Mopar Muscle Mag recently. I`ll check it out later.
 
:glasses7: I had a factory 383 68 Barracuda years ago and it was a blast! I am building a67 with a 500hp 340 right now.
 
In 1967, when a big block was first shoe horned into the a-body, The car was pulled off the assembly line and moved to a special bay where special mechanics with special hammers did the deed. So even with their correct/special engineered K and exhaust manifolds, it didn't fit well. But hey, If your dad is special and will always be available to change the spark plugs for you...
 
I had a 67 383 4 speede cuda years back, I didn't build that, bought it done, but was it was FUN!! it had a big oversized front sway bar too!!! helped a lot?? with a termoquad and high gears, got 18 on the interstate.
either eng will make a nice car, but its great dad will get his dream car!
 
powerman330 said:
Me and my dad are currently restoring a 67 barracuda fastback. the other day my grandfather told me i could take the motor and rearend out of a 67 plymouth sport fury that he had sitting behind his house. my question is what do i need to do, to be able to use these parts. the motor is a 383 and the rear is a 8 3/4". are these parts even able to be put into my car?? i have heard that i will need a new K-member and switch over to a manual steering box to run that motor. thanks
Click to expand...

Like Longgone said, Shumacher conversion mounts and headers are the main purchases.

http://www.engine-swaps.com/Pages/ProductsYear/67.72aBody.html#head1

You may need the 67 383 Pitman arm to use the existing pan from the Sport Fury.

http://www.firmfeel.com/a_body_mopar_pitman_idler_arm.html

Send the rear housing off to Moser to have it shortened and new perches installed. I like to add a drain plug while it is there also. If you are keeping the SBP use some used A body axles. If switching to BBP get new axles.

http://www.moserengineering.com/moser/shop-services/

You will also need to shorten and balance your driveshaft, I'd use the one from the Sport Fury.

You should be able to recore the 273 radiator to a 3 row and be done. Do you have 10 in drum brakes?

There is no comparison between a 360 and a 383. I've had both. Besides, your drivetrain is forged crank, internally balanced, and it is Free.
 
My question is to the thread starter.

What is the goal, performance wise with the car?

Do you have the create 360 all ready?

I'm figuring the 383 may have to be rebuilt. Do you believe that correct?

Having both big & small block A bodies, I think it is really your choice. While the swap from 273 - 360 is easiest, quickest, the 383 offers a higher hp possibilities if your so inclined to explore them.
 
Yo Powerman, Couple things. This topic is beat to death, in the Big Block forums, spend a few hours searching. Secondly, I just did this exact project in my 67 Notch. It turned out great, and i don't regret it, but the costs are exorbitant:
Headers: $800
New Driveshaft: $300
Brake conversion (absolutely necessary): $400
Mounts, torque strap: $200
New Radiator: $1K
all new electronic: $600
Clutch, tranny,: $1.5K
On and on and on.

Like someone said earlier, before you pick up a wrench, know EXACTLY what you want, and be ready for it cost 6K-8K just to get the car on the road.

I already HAD the engine!
 
Pateras said:
Yo Powerman, Couple things. This topic is beat to death, in the Big Block forums, spend a few hours searching. Secondly, I just did this exact project in my 67 Notch. It turned out great, and i don't regret it, but the costs are exorbitant:
Headers: $800
New Driveshaft: $300
Brake conversion (absolutely necessary): $400
Mounts, torque strap: $200
New Radiator: $1K
all new electronic: $600
Clutch, tranny,: $1.5K
On and on and on.

Like someone said earlier, before you pick up a wrench, know EXACTLY what you want, and be ready for it cost 6K-8K just to get the car on the road.

I already HAD the engine!
Click to expand...

Headers: $800
Shorten and balance Driveshaft: $150
Mounts, torque strap: $200
Recore Radiator to 3 row: $300-400
all new electronics: Not required
tranny,: change fluid and filter, adjust bands, up pressure, replace seals and bushings if required.

Suggested with either option.

Upgrade suspension
Upgrade Brakes: When you get to it. My 68 original 383 Formula S had 10 in drums from the factory
 
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