67 Dart 270 reverse lights always on...help please

Discussion in 'Electrical and Ignition' started by Troub, Aug 2, 2018.

  1. Troub

    Troub 67 Dart 270, 225 slant six

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    Hello All,
    Does anyone have a pic of the reverse light switch connected in the car? My Dart (recently purchased and in need of lots of love) is an automatic and I believe the switch should be attached low on the steering column but I'll be darned if I can find mine! The lights stay on no matter the gear selected so I'm assuming a faulty switch.
    Thanks!
     
  2. 67Dart273

    67Dart273 Well-Known Member

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  3. Dana67Dart

    Dana67Dart Most undignified way to get to Colorado!

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    The above photo is the correct column mounted switch. to install it you have to put a drill bit through a hole in the switch housing and the plastic (red) slider then with the column in Park you install the switch. and once it is bolted in and aligned correctly remove the drill. It will take a few try's to get it in the correct position.

    ALSO there is a lever on the column that can brake and if it is broken or missing your back up light will stay on

    OR you could have a short somewhere.


    If you haven't already download your service manual from mymopar there are directions and photos
    Section 19-34 (PDF page 580) this image is upside down from the way it is mounted in the car


    upload_2018-8-2_21-0-20.png


    20180802_203310.jpg
     
  4. pishta

    pishta I know I'm right....

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    you cant put one in the 67 trans?
    0900c15280052d06.gif
     
  5. Dana67Dart

    Dana67Dart Most undignified way to get to Colorado!

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    Huhhhhhh?????
     
  6. 67Dart273

    67Dart273 Well-Known Member

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    No, up through 68?? I think the automatics had no detent in the rooster comb. They used a single terminal NSS switch, reverse was on the shifter
     
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    • pishta

      pishta I know I'm right....

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      Ok, makes sense as the one I had had a single terminal on it. Carry on....
       
    • Dana67Dart

      Dana67Dart Most undignified way to get to Colorado!

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      Any update?
       
    • Troub

      Troub 67 Dart 270, 225 slant six

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      You guys are the best! I'm on that switch job like stink on a monkey tomorrow. Thanks for all the info. This weekends jobs are finishing new front drum brakes, adjusting ride height, checking that reverse light switch, and checking out my differential which leaks like a sieve. Oh and for those of us with brains that turn to mush when electricity is involved; whats the best way to check this switch's viability before spending cash on a new one?
       
      Last edited: Aug 3, 2018
    • Dana67Dart

      Dana67Dart Most undignified way to get to Colorado!

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      First I would disconnect the connector and check if the backup lights have turned off. if so then there is an issue in the switch or mechanism.

      If not then you have some other wiring issue to deal with, start tracing wires with the help of the service manual.

      after the test above I hate to say this but you would be best to remove the switch from the column. That way you can activate it without being a limbo champ.
      Once removed look for the actuator lever on the shaft. move the gear selector through the gears and see that it moves freely. ( don't forget parking brake and / or tire chock)
      once out you can then bench test it. there is one position where there should be 0 ohms ( short cir) between the two pins on the connector coming from the switch. all other positions there should be infinite ohms (open cir)

      When I troubleshooted mine it was not working at all ie no backup lights. The lever was there and moved freely the switch would move but no 0 ohms in any position. I drilled out the rivets and disassembled the the switch. I found that the springs that push the brass bar to the contacts were corroded away and the main sporing the returns the switch to the park position was in 2 pieces. I thought about finding new springs but ultimately decided to just buy an NOS instead (VERY PRICY so keep your eyes open on Ebay and FABO)

      since yours are on all the time I suspect the bar i referred to before is stuck on the contacts OR you have some other wiring issue.

      good luck.

      PM me with your email address and I can send you some photos of the switch disassembed. I helped another member here in the last year with his switch ( console switch but enough similar parts that my column switch was able to do the trick for him.)
       
    • Dana67Dart

      Dana67Dart Most undignified way to get to Colorado!

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      I assumed above that you were familiar with a multimeter / Ohm meter, Correct?
       
    • Dana67Dart

      Dana67Dart Most undignified way to get to Colorado!

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      here are a couple of photos with the metal of the switch removed. Im looking for the drawing I did that shows how it is assembled.

      20180123_183734.jpg 20180123_183456.jpg

      20180123_183640.jpg
       
    • Dana67Dart

      Dana67Dart Most undignified way to get to Colorado!

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      Found the post I was thinking about

      reverse light switch


      post 7 shows the column switch disassembly and where things go
      the cad drawings in post 12 reference the Console switch bar placement but otherwise is the same
       
      Last edited: Aug 3, 2018
    • Troub

      Troub 67 Dart 270, 225 slant six

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      Thanks DanaDart! I'm not the best with testing meters and such but I can muddle through with the help given. It's much appreciated.
       
    • Troub

      Troub 67 Dart 270, 225 slant six

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      Soooo....life got in the way lately but today I managed to locate the reverse light switch and remove it. Went through the gears and watched the operating lever at the base of the steering column move freely. Manually operated the switch lever and its able to move all the way through its range of motion but hangs up in the spot that obviously closes the circuit, hence my "always on" reverse lights. With a nudge it will move past that spot and the circuit opens and reverse lights go off as intended. It feels like it's just gunked up but def could be some internal switch bits faulty as mentioned by some of you guys with switch issues of your own.
      Is there anything safe to spray in the switch to see if it could be lubricated to get that lever moving freely? Would like to try all available options before having to buy one as they are pricey.
      Thanks again for the previous posts, the info made locating, removing, and troubleshooting fairly simple.

      image.jpeg
       
    • Dana67Dart

      Dana67Dart Most undignified way to get to Colorado!

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      The "bar" and the contacts of the one i took apart had a lot of wear in the places where it contacts. also the grease in the switch was as stiff as toothpaste left on the counter for a week. If you can get some contact cleaner that would be the first safest thing to try but I would bet that wd40 would liquefy the grease and release any gunk in there. Are the contact wobbly from the under side, the contact rivets might be loose and catching?

      The only thing I would watch for is that whatever cleaner you use is safe in the plastics.

      is the large return spring on the shaft intact?

      push comes to shove drill out the rivets ( watch the springs don't fly away there are 2 small and the one large) clean everything, smooth any edges you think might be catching and get some switch lube ( light bulb grease might work) and reassemble using small screws and nylock lock nuts to reassemble.

      I have seen a NOS for ~$35.00 on ebay recently but most are in the 65 to 100 range.

      good luck
       
    • Troub

      Troub 67 Dart 270, 225 slant six

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    • Troub

      Troub 67 Dart 270, 225 slant six

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      Thanks Dana67....
      Contacts seem solid, main spring is intact and still seems to be in good shape. Overall the switch looks pretty darn good. I will try the Wd40, I assume I shouldn't really soak it and will the moisture negatively the switch? I was thinking contact cleaner as you mentioned but didn't think it would "de-gunk".
       
    • Dana67Dart

      Dana67Dart Most undignified way to get to Colorado!

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      All of the below is IMHO: (Take the advise at your own risk)

      You could wash it is soap and water as long as you blow the water out.

      Probably could douse it in Denatured alcohol without any harm that would pull any water out.

      WD40 shouldn't do any harm or be an issue down the road just make sure it has time to dry away before you put it back. ( I left my makita drill out one night and it got rained on, I remembered that WD40 had a reputation as being a water replant so I ran the drill up to speed and sprayed in the vents, FLAME shot out and I stopped!)
       
      • Thanks! Thanks! x 1
      • Dana67Dart

        Dana67Dart Most undignified way to get to Colorado!

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      • Troub

        Troub 67 Dart 270, 225 slant six

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        WD40 worked like a charm! You the man! Another original part saved for pennies on the dollar.
         
      • Dana67Dart

        Dana67Dart Most undignified way to get to Colorado!

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        Yea!

        i would see if you can get some bulb grease or the like in there if you didnt already.

        Now the tricky part to get it back in in the right position.