mikesuss
New Member
it's a 1967 Dart GT. How do I remove the speaker ?
67 DART SPEAKER REPLACEMENT
- Thread starter mikesuss
- Start date
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I think a nutdriver (can't remember size) laying on your back and contorting your arm up to the speaker.
If it's still original, the speaker is screwed to a bracket. The bracket is held up on each end by a square shanked carriage bolt that points downward, and whose head is hidden under the defogger outlet vents. As said in post 2, reach up and remove the nuts however you can, and the speaker and bracket will come down.
I forgot it was a carriage bolt, I was thinking it was pressed or welded studs. Thanks for adding detail.
Just did it last year, so it's fresh in my memory. 
Topless69
Well-Known Member
Remove passenger seat so you can lie on your back, unscrew heater controls and push out of the way and the speaker bracket is above it
Kendog 170
Let the boy go !
Don't know what your replacing it with but here's what one member did here.
Dash Speakers
Dash Speakers
Here is my reply if you decide to follow that lead:
“I did the same thing but the are angled a bit as those small speakers don’t balance when on the same plane. Left side angled left and right side angled to the right.
I think I did like 10degrees (5per side)”
And prepare for your hands getting torn up a bit. A lot of sharp metal edges up there. The more you remove the better you can see and get to.
Syleng1
Syleng1
mikesuss
New Member
Gentlemen,, thank you for the advice and photos. I just had the AM radio rebuilt, and thought since my hands are cut up,
why not replace the speaker.. After 57 years the speaker is probably dried up. dropping the heater controls will make getting the
speaker out much easier. Taking off the defroster tubes will also help also.
The goal is to replace the 4 x10 speaker with whatever small magnet /8 ohm speaker I can find. Certainly, no high-fidelity sound here.
and yes,, paint the bracket black and cloth cover the speaker.
why not replace the speaker.. After 57 years the speaker is probably dried up. dropping the heater controls will make getting the
speaker out much easier. Taking off the defroster tubes will also help also.
The goal is to replace the 4 x10 speaker with whatever small magnet /8 ohm speaker I can find. Certainly, no high-fidelity sound here.
and yes,, paint the bracket black and cloth cover the speaker.
Here's a few pictures that might help.
Unrestored speaker bracket. Note the insulating foam. That side goes against the dash to prevent speaker rattles. Not my picture, but I had it saved.
This is my bracket after stripping, painting, and adding new insulating foam. The foam is just home store self-adhesive weatherstrip. The speaker is covered with acoustic fabric and attached to the frame, ready to be installed.
Backside of the speaker. This speaker, Retrosound R-410N, has two tweeters that can be wired for stereo, giving a 4-ohm signature. When wired for mono as pictured, it gives an 8-ohm signature. The instructions on how to wire it are on their website, I think. If you can't find them, message me with your email address, and I'll send the instructions to you as a pdf.
This speaker sounds OK with a stock radio. If that's all you're looking for, you'll be satisfied. When I drive my car, I want the retro experience for nostalgia, lousy radio, wind noise and all. Brake, tire and suspension upgrades are the exception.
This is someone else's picture of the dash inverted. You can see how the bracket attaches to bolts whose heads are covered by the defogger outlets. The bolts are flat headed carriage bolts with square shanks, that fit in a keyhole shaped opening. The keyhole is designed so the head of the bolt can be installed from under the dash, then slid to the narrow part of the opening. Once there, the square shanks allow you to tighten the nuts holding up the bracket without spinning. If you don't have your original bolts, you may need to modify some that you source locally. I went to a few places before I found bolts whose shank was the same size as the slot in the keyhole opening. That was about 1/4", but I don't recall the exact size. Then I ground the rounded head flat to fit under the vent outlets without interference. If you remove the outlets, this will all become clear to you. If you do, be careful of the plastic studs on the outlets. They probably have a limited number of times they can be removed and won't respond well to rough treatment. Repops are expensive.
Unrestored speaker bracket. Note the insulating foam. That side goes against the dash to prevent speaker rattles. Not my picture, but I had it saved.
This is my bracket after stripping, painting, and adding new insulating foam. The foam is just home store self-adhesive weatherstrip. The speaker is covered with acoustic fabric and attached to the frame, ready to be installed.
Backside of the speaker. This speaker, Retrosound R-410N, has two tweeters that can be wired for stereo, giving a 4-ohm signature. When wired for mono as pictured, it gives an 8-ohm signature. The instructions on how to wire it are on their website, I think. If you can't find them, message me with your email address, and I'll send the instructions to you as a pdf.
This speaker sounds OK with a stock radio. If that's all you're looking for, you'll be satisfied. When I drive my car, I want the retro experience for nostalgia, lousy radio, wind noise and all. Brake, tire and suspension upgrades are the exception.
This is someone else's picture of the dash inverted. You can see how the bracket attaches to bolts whose heads are covered by the defogger outlets. The bolts are flat headed carriage bolts with square shanks, that fit in a keyhole shaped opening. The keyhole is designed so the head of the bolt can be installed from under the dash, then slid to the narrow part of the opening. Once there, the square shanks allow you to tighten the nuts holding up the bracket without spinning. If you don't have your original bolts, you may need to modify some that you source locally. I went to a few places before I found bolts whose shank was the same size as the slot in the keyhole opening. That was about 1/4", but I don't recall the exact size. Then I ground the rounded head flat to fit under the vent outlets without interference. If you remove the outlets, this will all become clear to you. If you do, be careful of the plastic studs on the outlets. They probably have a limited number of times they can be removed and won't respond well to rough treatment. Repops are expensive.
Electro tech in Blaine , Minnesota makes a direct attach 2 speaker bracket and two 2 1/2"" speakers to replace the one speaker. Have them in both of my cars after a their am/fm conversion. It's for balance and fader control in their conversion.
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