67 twin turbo dart

[MadScientistMat]

Ok. I'd first turn off all software noise filtering if you have it on. It's a lot easier to set this to filter out real pulses than to make it remove noise. Also, have you seen this write up? Using the Tooth Logger and Composite Logger It covers interpreting the logs.

 

[Matts440]

Ok. I'd first turn off all software noise filtering if you have it on. It's a lot easier to set this to filter out real pulses than to make it remove noise. Also, have you seen this write up? Using the Tooth Logger and Composite Logger It covers interpreting the logs.

I forgot where the noise filter setting was, I looked for that the other night and for the life of me couldn't find it. I'll look into that and read through it.

 

[racerjoe]

I forgot where the noise filter setting was, I looked for that the other night and for the life of me couldn't find it. I'll look into that and read through it.

Make sure your trigger wheel isn't wobbling. In my original setup, I tack welded the trigger wheel to the factory crank pulley. One of the tacks broke and it would start cutting out at high RPM like a rev limiter. I didn't know what was going on until it got worse and was doing it at lower RPM. That's when I put the dial indicator on the trigger wheel and saw it wasn't true.

 

[Matts440]

Make sure your trigger wheel isn't wobbling. In my original setup, I tack welded the trigger wheel to the factory crank pulley. One of the tacks broke and it would start cutting out at high RPM like a rev limiter. I didn't know what was going on until it got worse and was doing it at lower RPM. That's when I put the dial indicator on the trigger wheel and saw it wasn't true.

I'll double check that but I'm pretty sure it's on there solid and flat against the balancer

 

[Matts440]

Well tooth wheel is good and solid. Batch fire didnt change anything still back fired. Changed how the crank signal picks up and even tried putting the filters on crank and cam signal and still nothing. My father in law was walking by and said the back fore was on the drivers, so tomorrow when I get home will pull the plugs and ohms the wires, maybe it's a bad batch of NGK cooper plugs, will check the new ones in the motor and swap out to the old ones that worked when the engine ran before pulling it. Checking everything again, even each signal again to the coils and injectors and in order. Cylinder 2 injector suppose to light twice with the diode and did once, checked the other cylinders and went back to #2 and tested and it flashed twice like the computer says too.

 

[turbovan]

I’ve struggled with similar issues the last week. My sensor(3rd now) just died out of nowhere. Have you checked your gap every ~90°? My hack job toothed wheel has around .02 runout so I’ve hit the sensor after setting the gap on a low tooth. I suggest not following the recommended gap and bring it closer like others have suggested. What stands out the most to me is your cam log. Mine produces a square wave from a the half moon distributor wheel. Has your cam log always looked like that?

I’d also check crankshaft end play…just in case.

 

[Matts440]

I’ve struggled with similar issues the last week. My sensor(3rd now) just died out of nowhere. Have you checked your gap every ~90°? My hack job toothed wheel has around .02 runout so I’ve hit the sensor after setting the gap on a low tooth. I suggest not following the recommended gap and bring it closer like others have suggested. What stands out the most to me is your cam log. Mine produces a square wave from a the half moon distributor wheel. Has your cam log always looked like that?

I’d also check crankshaft end play…just in case.

I can bring the gap closer, I sent the logs to diyautotune and they said it's good data. I honestly cant remember if long ago had a square or just the point like it currently is. No crank shaft play, checked when motor was out. What cam sensor are you using? Same as mine or a different one?

 

[turbovan]

Just a factory magnum distributor

 

[Matts440]

Just a factory magnum distributor

Oh okay mine from a Jeep so it might just be how the sensor trace out

 

[turbovan]

Any luck? I just had another massive sync loss fiasco. All caused by adding a ground to the alternator. It had been on there for 2 years prior to replacing and testing the new crank sensor.

 

[Matts440]

Any luck? I just had another massive sync loss fiasco. All caused by adding a ground to the alternator. It had been on there for 2 years prior to replacing and testing the new crank sensor.

Not much, no back fire last night, did drop the crank sensor gap to .020. Even put the old plugs back in. Think it's the crank sensor angle causing the engine to run then shut off. Had 3 counts of syn loss during that start.

 

[Matts440]

I just have the two grounds on the engine one to the block and and other is from the intake elbow to ground.

 

[turbovan]

Is your sync loss for an unexpected missing tooth? Difficult to see from your picture

 

[Matts440]

I dont think so, think it's just the communication between the two sensors

 

[Matts440]

I'm stumped. Same results and no change. Filter on, same, batch fire, same no run and back fires. Starting to think blow through carb but cant afford it. Bot sure if something in the box got messed up some how. I dont even know anything more. Crank sensor is at .025 gap and logs well, cam is center of half moon and losing sync had like 9 counts. Tooth wheel is flush on balancer, took the rad out to check all that.

 

[MadScientistMat]

Can you post a tooth log in this thread showing the lost sync?

 

[Matts440]

Yeah once I get back home I'll upload it on here from that computer

 

[Matts440]

for some reason it wont let me upload the file of the composite log, can only send via email

 

[DNasty777]

You can upload it to a google drive, make it public, then link it in this thread.

 

[Matts440]

Okay see how this works

 

[MadScientistMat]

Says I need access. You need to make the file public.

 

[Matts440]

Says I need access. You need to make the file public.

Sorry fixed

 

[MadScientistMat]

That log is while cranking, isn't it? See if you can get a tooth log of the loss of sync happening above cranking RPM.

 

[Matts440]

That log is while cranking, isn't it? See if you can get a tooth log of the loss of sync happening above cranking RPM.

I cant, that's always the log since it wont run but for a few seconds then die. Megasquirt is having me check points test and the VR condition. So far the points measure out at .70 volts which is what they said it should be. Not sure if I need to close the gap more than the .025". It doesnt make any sense since it was running prior.

 

[MadScientistMat]

I noticed the first tooth after the missing tooth looks way too close. Check that tooth for Nick's. Does it stall before you let off the starter or after?