68 Dart GTS Overcharging & electrical issues

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billmac

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My factory original car started having problems with gas/temp gauges and lights blowing. Found the charging system was running 16.5 volts.

I replaced the original Delco Remy mechanical voltage regulator with a Wells VR 706. Voltage started out at 14.8 with new regulator and slowly climbed to 15.35 before I shut the car off.

The 1968 Dart GTS 340 engine is stock and is a garage ornament. But I like to have it in top shape. Now I have to learn how to fix these gauges but I figured I need to get the voltage right first.

Do I need to start with a new alternator? Auto Zone shows several different part numbers. How can that be? Any tips or ideas are welcome.
 
The very first things to do is to determine WHETHER or not it's the voltage regulator

You already know the charging voltage is too high (I ASSUME you are using an accurate multimeter to measure this)

So make a couple of other checks

ONE First, turn the key to "run" but engine "off"

Stick one probe of your meter, set to low DC volts, on the battery positive post. Stick the other probe to the regulator "IGN" terminal. (It only has two, the one you want should be blue, and the green, you do NOT want should go to alternator field.)

You are hoping, here, for a VERY low reading, the LOWER the better. Anything higher than .2--.3V (three TENTHS of one volt) means you have a voltage drop problem

The circuit path you are checking here is from the battery -- fuse link -- bulkhead connector -- ammeter circuit -- ignition switch connector -- through the switch -- back out the switch connector (on the dark blue "run" wire) -- back OUT the bulkhead connector -- and to the IGN resistor and regulator IGN terminal

IF this voltage is higher that indicated, you have a drop somewhere. Your top suspects are the bulkhead connector, the switch connector, the switch itself, and the ammeter circuit

TEU Next, start the car, bring the engine up (fast idle) to simulate low/ medium cruise.

This time stick one probe directly onto the battery NEGATIVE terminal, and stick the other probe onto the regulator mounting flange. Be sure to "stab" through rust, chrome, paint

As before you are hoping for a very low reading. Anything OVER .2V (two tenths) means you have a GROUND problem, between the battery, block, body, and regulator.

THREE If and only if these two tests above check out OK, should you replace the regulator. The Wells 706 is a cheapo. Good regulators are not cheap. Standard/ Blue Streak VR-128
 
I had the battrey on my 72 dart that made it seem like it was over chargen, so thats something to chack by putting another one in it!
 
I had the battrey on my 72 dart that made it seem like it was over chargen, so thats something to chack by putting another one in it!

thats good and all , but the system needs to be checked with a meter instead of just throwing parts at it
 
Thanks folks for your thoughts and info. After reading your posts, I figured I better check out my old battery first. It showed 16 volts. (huh?) I turned on my headlamps for an hour and ate dinner. Checked and the battery still showed 15.2 volts. Checked my battery tender and it showed 16.25 volts with my digital meter. I am slow minded and over 60yrs old, but things were adding up. Checked pickup truck 15.73 volts, checked wifes 2012 Sienna 15.94 volts.

I looked over the garage and found dial volt meter with a 15 volt scale. It was reading about 3 volts less than the digital meter. The dart has an after market volt meter and it also showed slightly less than 14 volts when running.

I have concluded that my problem was not overcharging but a bad meter.

I appreciate everyone's help and check out the battery first. It helped me a bunch.
 

Now I have to find out what happened to my gas gauge and dash lights. They decided to not work.
 
WELL!! That was an easy fix. Best to start a new thread, we'll be glad ta help ya.
 
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