69 Dart Exhaust

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kc0r8y

kc0r8y

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I recently bought a 69 dart. It had a stroker 360 in it with Hooker super comp 1 5/8 headers which I'm thinking about swapping out in the future. Currently the car has nothing more then just the 3 inch collectors bolted to the headers with the evap lines tied into them on both sides. So basically it's open headers. The car has a narrowed dana with mini tubs and a 10 inch tire and stock gas tank, so tailpipes are out of the question. There just isnt any room. Also the car sits rather low already so im worried about clearance. I'd like the exhaust to dump out the sides in front of the rear tires but that puts the mufflers under the middle of the car with very little clearance, I also considered moving the mufflers back near the rear where they can be tucked up a little and just dump the exhaust in front of the rear under the car. I see a lot of guys doing that but unsure of fumes in the cab. I'm also unsure of which mufflers to go with. I was thinking 40 series flowmasters. I'd like to keep the exhaust rather simple. Something like an H or X, mufflers and dumps.

Just looking for opinions please.

Thank you for your time.

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I remember a project Cordoba that Mopar Muscle Magazine did back in the 90's. They did something really cool with the exhaust that I don't see very often. When I put exhaust on my 82 Cordoba, I did the same thing. The mufflers were placed in front of the rear end. The tail pipes went up and over the rear axle but didn't go out to the bumper. Once the pipes got over the axle, they were angled down to the outside. All you could see was about an inch of pipe sticking below the bottom of the quarter panel...directly behind the rear wheels.

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I'd have to double check but I don't think I have enough room to go over the rear. I also don't want to have any issues when I have people in the back seat.
 
If you don't even have room for that, you'll have to exit the exhaust in front of the rear wheels. The Challenger T/A style tips have been over done IMO. If you could find(or make) a thin but wide rectangular tip for in front of the wheels that would look pretty cool. You can tuck them right up to the rocker pinch weld. I wouldn't dump it under the car. It will be super loud and you'll get a lot of resonance.
 
burdar said:
If you don't even have room for that, you'll have to exit the exhaust in front of the rear wheels. The Challenger T/A style tips have been over done IMO. If you could find(or make) a thin but wide rectangular tip for in front of the wheels that would look pretty cool. You can tuck them right up to the rocker pinch weld. I wouldn't dump it under the car. It will be super loud and you'll get a lot of resonance.
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Idealy thats what i'd like to do, again I'm just worried about muffler clearance under the car. Though something like this would work awesome. Just need to find someone who makes 3 inch free flowing mufflers that have the in and out on the same side.

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Did you know that they make these specialty exhaust pipe pieces??


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These will fit when other "regular" pipe won't fit!!

treblig
 
kc0r8y said:
The car has a narrowed dana with mini tubs and a 10 inch tire and stock gas tank, so tailpipes are out of the question. There just isnt any room. Also the car sits rather low already so im worried about clearance.
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Narrowed Dana, Stock Tank, 12.50 tires, 3.5 collectors, 3" front to back, with........ Tailpipes.

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Tailpipes cut through the back half of the leaf springs. I used S-pipes to accomplish this.
 
Can I assume that regardless of what header I use the H or X pipe will always line up with them? I plan to replace the hooker super comps that came with the car to TTIs down the road, but for now I need to put an exhaust system on the car. I don't want to put anything on that too high end if I'm just going to have to replace parts of it later when I replace the headers.
 
correct. headers will have no effect. So long as you are running factory tailpipes these will work. If you made your own tailpipes they will probably still work but my require slight modification.
 
Can I assume that regardless of what header I use the H or X pipe will always line up with them?
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No, I would not assume that. If you have an X or H pipe hooked up to a set of Hooker headers, I would not expect them to be a direct bolt-on if you switch to TTI's. TTI's X-pipe will fit TTI's headers. Anything else, I would expect needs to be modified to fit.
 
Yes, I know. However, the sentence I quoted, he is talking about mounting an X-pipe to his headers. Unless I read it wrong.
 
I have a feeling I'm going to be better off just ordering the whole exhaust from TTI headers back.
 
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With your car, you will have to build your own system. Headers can have different lengths to the end of the collector . You probably have a driveshaft loop (hopefully). A Dana is larger, and has a different shape. Then there's the rear suspension. If you do turn downs before the rear, it will be loud, drone, probably leak fumes into the car, and it will bow dirt up all over the bottom of the car, and on the other cars at any car show you go to. If you bring them out in front of the tires, it will eventually drive you nuts with the noise right at your ear. The ideas already given are excellent. Changing the headers first, so you can do the job once properly is a good idea. Buying the whole TTI kit is expensive, and probably won't fit for the reasons I stated. Summit sells a nice affordable header back kit that would be a good place to start.
 
furyus2 said:
With your car, you will have to build your own system. Headers can have different lengths to the end of the collector . You probably have a driveshaft loop (hopefully). A Dana is larger, and has a different shape. Then there's the rear suspension. If you do turn downs before the rear, it will be loud, drone, probably leak fumes into the car, and it will bow dirt up all over the bottom of the car, and on the other cars at any car show you go to. If you bring them out in front of the tires, it will eventually drive you nuts with the noise right at your ear. The ideas already given are excellent. Changing the headers first, so you can do the job once properly is a good idea. Buying the whole TTI kit is expensive, and probably won't fit for the reasons I stated. Summit sells a nice affordable header back kit that would be a good place to start.
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Thanks for the info and yes I have a driveshaft loop.
 
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