69 Dart GT Conv. 340-6pak

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Got the new lock set in for the dart. They didn't look as shiny as I thought they should be since they are new and all, so I put the buffer on em and they look good now. I put the trunk lock in with out a hitch. They only sent one lock clip and so I had to ramble thru my stuff and only found one other, so I put the passenger side door lock in and now I'm waiting on getting some cylinder lock rods (that I have of course lost) in. Since I couldn't finish the lock cylinders, I had time to install the new door strikers. Maybe I'll get more stuff done today....

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Today, I received what i hope is the last of the chrome stuff from "The Chrome Shop" in Rock Island, Illinois. It looks really good. I hope I can start reassembly of the vent windows as early as this weekend. The door glasses and quarter glasses will need to be polished prior to tenting them to match the vent window and windshield. I have ordered Cerium Oxide to polish them with. Wish me luck...

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2fine69s said:
Today, I received what i hope is the last of the chrome stuff from "The Chrome Shop" in Rock Island, Illinois. It looks really good. I hope I can start reassembly of the vent windows as early as this weekend. The door glasses and quarter glasses will need to be polished prior to tenting them to match the vent window and windshield. I have ordered Cerium Oxide to polish them with. Wish me luck...
Click to expand...

Hi Martin,
That window stuff looks great!

I'm looking forward to see how the Polish comes out.

Good luck!

-AlV
 
What are you using for a radiator? Is it installed yet? I'm curious if you'll have issues with that clutch fan. I've heard the MP clutch is too tall and hits the rad.

Also, did you paint or powder coat the lower control arms?
 
burdar said:
What are you using for a radiator? Is it installed yet? I'm curious if you'll have issues with that clutch fan. I've heard the MP clutch is too tall and hits the rad.

Also, did you paint or powder coat the lower control arms?
Click to expand...
Hey Darren,
I called Griffin radiators in Georgia, and gave them all my info and they built me one. Now, they never asked and I did not tell them that I was going to use a clutch fan, so we'll have to see. I have not installed it yet, maybe I should go ahead and put it in this weekend. The lower control arms are painted, Tarheel Powder Coatings came on line after I had already painted the K member and lower arms.
 
There is a Jaguar clutch that is not as tall as the MP one. If you run into issues, that other clutch should give you the clearance you need.
 
burdar said:
There is a Jaguar clutch that is not as tall as the MP one. If you run into issues, that other clutch should give you the clearance you need.
Click to expand...
Thanks Darren,
I'm going to stick the radiator in on Saturday. Wish me luck..
 
2fine69s said:
Thanks Darren,
I'm going to stick the radiator in on Saturday. Wish me luck..
Click to expand...
Darren,
I just test fitted the radiator, and I have 1" clearance between the core and the clutch. I believe this will be sufficient. I think my challenge will be the upper radiator hose. Since I have used custom brackets, the upper hose will either need to go between the alternator adjustment bracket and the lower mounting bracket, or over it all. I may end up with an alloy bendable hose kit, or send it back to Griffin and have the upper inlet moved 3" to the passenger side. I would much rather use the oem style rubber hose. Lower hose has no issues. I'll need to pull it out for polishing and reinstall then we'll see how it works out...

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Yep, one inch should be enough clearance. A lot of people are running into issues with the MP clutch. Maybe your radiator design is a little different then others.

As for the upper hose...
Have you seen where people will use a stainless tube in the middle with two rubber hoses at the ends? That's a really cool look. All you'd have to do is find a hose with the bends you need...then you can cut the bends off and attach to the stainless piece. I think they look much nicer then the flex hoses.
 
burdar said:
Yep, one inch should be enough clearance. A lot of people are running into issues with the MP clutch. Maybe your radiator design is a little different then others.

As for the upper hose...
Have you seen where people will use a stainless tube in the middle with two rubber hoses at the ends? That's a really cool look. All you'd have to do is find a hose with the bends you need...then you can cut the bends off and attach to the stainless piece. I think they look much nicer then the flex hoses.
Click to expand...

I think the clearance difference is because I'm using the cast iron water pump. The impeller shaft is shorter. I do agree, stainless pipe would look much better, the issue for me would be, I need to have 3 hose bends to route it the safest way and I'm not sure how it would look. Have you or any one else ever used stainless exhaust tubing, I have a friend at a muffler shop that could bend it for me, and then I may be able to just use 2 rubber bends, ideas?
 
This weekend had lots of little stuff to be done. For someone who has never done a rebuild, they would not understand how you could work for weeks and never actually see what has been done, unless you are especially looking for it. I installed the trunk weather strip. I then installed the door lock cylinders with the new lock rods that VDART (Lawrence) sent me. A shout out for Lawrence, members like him make this site the best!. I received the Cerium Oxide for the glass polishing, but won't get to it before at least next weekend. I have the interior shop scheduled for next Friday, to start on the front and rear seats. I took the head rests and bezels off in favor of new ones. I finally got around to finishing the filler neck install. Using after market quarters, I noticed that the gas cap was not centered in the recess area, so I had to make some adjustments to make it right. I had to install the gasket that goes over the neck and mounts to the trunk floor, and then put the vent tube on, with the repainted red spring clamps (I like those in that particular area). I started looking at how I was going to route the heater hoses in the engine bay. I have a repo BB a body heater hose bracket and am going to modify it to fit on the valve cover bolt. I am then going to use 90 degree bend heater hoses in favor of straight ones with large bends. I have ordered 2) two hose connectors so they will route side by side, and look a lot neater. Thats a lot of small stuff, but it all has to be done at some point...

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If your buddy can put a raised lip around the ends of the exhaust pipe with the bender, I don't see why that wouldn't work. You need that lip at the end though. The hose might blow off without it.
 
burdar said:
If your buddy can put a raised lip around the ends of the exhaust pipe with the bender, I don't see why that wouldn't work. You need that lip at the end though. The hose might blow off without it.
Click to expand...

Yes, they can swell the ends. Good Catch.
 
2fine69s said:
I think the clearance difference is because I'm using the cast iron water pump. The impeller shaft is shorter. I do agree, stainless pipe would look much better, the issue for me would be, I need to have 3 hose bends to route it the safest way and I'm not sure how it would look. Have you or any one else ever used stainless exhaust tubing, I have a friend at a muffler shop that could bend it for me, and then I may be able to just use 2 rubber bends, ideas?
Click to expand...


The problem with bending SS exhaust tubing to anything near 90* will collapse the tubing. You may want to look into 316 sanitary tubing. You can buy this tubing in 15*,30*, 45* and 90 degree sections and with the size needed (1 1/4 to 1 1/2") to build any configuration needed.
It will never rust, never split and be impervious to any chemicals used in the cooling system. It will also be lighter in weight than ss exhaust tubing. This stuff will also polish to a chrome like shine.

Build looks great. If only I could get started on my conv.
Mickey
 
cobrabike said:
The problem with bending SS exhaust tubing to anything near 90* will collapse the tubing. You may want to look into 316 sanitary tubing. You can buy this tubing in 15*,30*, 45* and 90 degree sections and with the size needed (1 1/4 to 1 1/2") to build any configuration needed.
It will never rust, never split and be impervious to any chemicals used in the cooling system. It will also be lighter in weight than ss exhaust tubing. This stuff will also polish to a chrome like shine.

Build looks great. If only I could get started on my conv.
Mickey
Click to expand...

Hey Mickey,
Is there a place that you would recommend me to look for 316 sanitary tubing and bends. I'm open to all options.
 
Saturday, I started the task of routing the heater hoses. I'm using Classic Auto Air, so there will need to be a manual water valve in the upper heater hose on the bulk head. I'm using hoses with a pre bent 90 degree on one end and its close but with the hose separators, and using some convoluted hose covering in couple of spots, I think I've got a good routing. I used a repo BB dart heater hose mounting bracket, and made one extra 90 degree bend then mounted it to the shock stud. This will leave me room on the inner fender well to route the AC lines to the condenser. I also had time to install the upper door end cap seals.

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Today I started the job of polishing the side and quarter glasses. I have never done this before so I started with the worst one, the left quarter glass. This glass has some scratches that you can feel with your finger nail. So I got the Cerium Oxide mixed in to a slurry, had the cordless drill ready with 2 fresh batteries, a towel to put under the glass to make up for the curve, and one to wipe the glass with. After cleaning the glass first, I started polishing. Two and a half hours later I have learned 2 valuable lessons. Lesson 1: If you can feel the scratch with your finger nail, It will not come out. Lesson 2: If you hold the polishing pad in on spot too long, you will over heat the slurry and glass and discolor the tint between the glass. These are 2 very important lessons and I am now in the market for a left tinted quarter glass. I've put out some feelers so it may not take too long. The Cerium Oxide will on the other hand take out swirl marks, water spots and any nicotine from smoking, overspray etc.... On a more positive note, I have ordered elbows and tubing to make up my stainless radiator hoses.

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Hey Martin,
The hose clamp that you are using on your heater hose, tied to the shock mount, is that the proper location and clamp? I like the way that looks compared to mine just laying there on top of the inner fender. Of course that was the way the OP had it when I bought the car.
at least your learning curve was on the worst window so you are not out as much as if it were a better piece.
 
2fine69s said:
Hey Mickey,
Is there a place that you would recommend me to look for 316 sanitary tubing and bends. I'm open to all options.
Click to expand...

In SC I buy from MSC or Grainger. The local place that has reasonable prices would be HM Craig off hwy 146. I can't find a website for them.

Good luck
 
BrokenTool said:
Hey Martin,
The hose clamp that you are using on your heater hose, tied to the shock mount, is that the proper location and clamp? I like the way that looks compared to mine just laying there on top of the inner fender.
Click to expand...

Hey Mike,
The heater hose bracket that I'm using is a repo 68 BB Dart. I modified it by putting an extra 90 degree bend at the mounting hole, then opening up the hole to 3/8". It was originally made to mount to the inner fender. I wanted to move the hoses away from the inner fender to make room for the A/C hoses that I plan on running down the inner fender. Just trying to route them neater than Ma Mopar did.
 
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