69 Dart GT Conv. 340-6pak

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Got the seat frames back from the upholsterer yesterday, and last night I disassembled and blasted the mounting frames. This morning I painted the parts and maybe tomorrow I can reassemble the the frames and get them back to the upholsterer for covering.

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2fine69s said:
Hey Mike,
The heater hose bracket that I'm using is a repo 68 BB Dart. I modified it by putting an extra 90 degree bend at the mounting hole, then opening up the hole to 3/8". It was originally made to mount to the inner fender. I wanted to move the hoses away from the inner fender to make room for the A/C hoses that I plan on running down the inner fender. Just trying to route them neater than Ma Mopar did.
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Thanks for the info Martin, I will be looking to add that bracket also, it looks a heck of a lot better with then without thats for sure.
 
Saturday I painted the bucket seat frames for my Dart. Today I finished reassembling them. Hopefully tomorrow I can take them back to the upholsterer and get them back before the weekend. Thanks goes out to "burdar" for his help with supplying pics for reassembly,
Thanks Darren...

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The car is coming out great, can't wait to see the final results. :thumleft:

Back in the early 80's, some guy living around the corner from a friend of mine had almost the exact same car, only a black interior. It was pretty rusty, but when I saw a for sale sign put in it one day I had to go look. Man, it was scary. I had never seen so much rust on a car at that point & it was only a 12 or 13 year old car. Rust on every piece of sheet metal & no floors. I think he had plywood instead of carpets. I remember he was only asking $250 for it, right in my price range, but with all that rust only half of it remained.....LOL
 
Old Moparz said:
The car is coming out great, can't wait to see the final results. :thumleft:

Thanks, I really appreciate it. Glad you like it. I had hopes of having it finished and making it to the Mopar Nats, but there's too much for one person to do, so instead of rushing and making mistakes, I'm going to continue on my own pace and it will be finished when it's done. Thanks again.
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Here are pictures of the 1/4 glass I have at the house.

It is clear and the only mark looks like where the weather strip is along the bottom

I rolled the window up on mine and looked at it and it should be below or even with the weather strip.

I have some others but they are not at the house

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Parts numbers
 
This weekend was Tie Up Loose Ends weekend. I focused mainly on the undercarriage. I started with the driveshaft and for the life of me could not find my u-joint straps, so I had to put that off until either I find mine or get new ones.... Next I went on to the transmission stuff. Installing the trans to radiator lines took much longer than expected. With the large primary headers and motor and trans mounted in place, I had to twist them in a virtual inch at the time. I was going to use the shifter linkage that I had in my other dart, only to remember later that I had a 904 in it and not a 727. I installed the neutral safety switch harness to the unit. I finished mounting the 3/8" stainless fuel line and connected it to the pump. I elected to use Gates PowerGrip clamps (shrink tubing) on all my hose connections, and so far no real issues. The fuel lines, heater, and by-pass hoses that attach to the engine are done. I didn't connect the heater hoses to the core yet as I'm waiting on clarification on mounting the manual cut off in line, it seems that the pics show it mounted on the top port of the core and the instructions say mount it on the bottom, so we'll wait for confirmation from them. I was intending to mount the sub frame connectors but the lift was in the way, so I'll have to wait until I get it back in my shop. I touched up the black painted stuff under the car and thats about it. The seats are supposed to be ready by the middle of the week, and I'm trying to decide who to order carpet from now.

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I need some pictures. If anybody has some pictures of a vert dart b pillar top without the chrome.
I replaced the full quarters with cut down hard top quarters but I the angle (the top corner)where side meets the back is a slight slope up (higher from the original quarters) my email is [email protected]
I am trying to figure out the correct angle(is it flat.is it high?)
If you need to see the area I am talking about I'll send you a picture.
thanks in advance!
 
This weekend I spent some well deserved time with the family. My wife,son and myself went to a cruse in, played in the pool etc. So all I got done was to paint the new driveshaft tube, later this week I'll paint the yokes silver. I did manage to score an nos left quarter glass to replace the one I overheated while polishing. That's about all...

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Lookin good Martin.

Family time is a must the car will be there.

Speaking of family, I hope your brother is well.

Take care.

-AlV
 
AlV said:
Lookin good Martin.

Family time is a must the car will be there.

Speaking of family, I hope your brother is well.

Take care.

-AlV
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Thanks for asking Al,
He is doing great. He's back at home, lots more energy, and he's gaining his independence again.
 
Well today I started building the stainless radiator hoses with my buddy Mike. He's a super stainless fabricator and gave me some great ideas on how to proceed. I started by ordering 36" of straight tubing and 4) 45 degree bends and 4) 90 degree bends. I started at the radiator with the first 90 bend and then just measured to the next and so on. It really was not that bad. You just have to allow clearance between the steel line to radiator and to motor to allow for motor flex of the motor mounts. I'll get them welded solid and then polish them on the buffer. I'll be using the Gates power grips and rubber radiator hose from the steel line to the connection points. I think I should finish them this week.

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Oh boy,
As usual with me, I purchased a set of BOLT ON PARTS,chassis ties, and we want discuss who made them, but they did not fit they way I wanted, so I cut and chopped and moved and bent until I had them bolted high enough under the car that it did not look like a set of 4' traction bars hanging under it. I had to move the front over 2" so as not to have a bolt inside of the front floor braces where I could not get a nut no it. The rear had to have a couple of notches cut in it to go up inside the convertible boxing supports as these bars were for a hard top. All and all, I should have just made my own from scratch. I'll need a couple of more days to finish it....

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Well today I finally finished welding up the chassis ties the way I wanted them. Got em all boxed in and I'll blast them tomorrow along with the front sway bar then they're off to the coater next week.

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All and all this weekend has been pretty productive. I got the stainless radiator hoses all welded up, sanded, and buffed. I test fitted them and they fit great, so now I'll take them and the radiator back out for the last time, so I can polish the radiator, and put the flange back in the inlet and outlet since I had shortened the necks. The next time all these go back in, they will have the gates power grips on and should not have to come out again. Since this car a street car and not a race car, I like the idea of having rubber motor mounts, but since I have the fixed radiator hoses with minimal flex from the rubber ends, I have decided to strap it, (better safe than sorry)so I've ordered a Schumacker Torque Strap and it should be here next week. Tomorrow I'll put the driveshaft back in for the last time. Hopefully the chassis ties and sway bar will be back from the coater by Wednesday and I can finish the bottom.

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Thanks Al,
Lots of time involved in making these because of the way I needed to route them, but I think they look better than a flex hose. Did you ever figure out which PS pump you needed to go with? I've never had much experience with power steering pumps, they mostly got in my way of large tube headers and such, so I just yanked them out. By the way, your Dart is gonna be SWEET!!!
 
Today I installed the driveshaft, hopefully for the last time. I had fitted the stainless hoses so it was time to take the radiator back out for some work on the hose outlets and polishing. Once a week or so, myself and some friends get together for breakfast, and to get the scoop on each of our projects (were all car nuts), so last week I was telling them how I had to shorten the radiator outlets to make clearance between the fixed hoses and the radiator for engine flex. I was pondering on how to put the swelled area back in the outlets since I had cut them off. My buddy said he had read on a message board about making a tool for that specific purpose. Later that day he showed up at my shop with said tool in hand, and I must say it worked flawlessly! I put both swells on today and it worked great! I also grossly under estimated the amount of work it was going to take to polish my aluminum radiator. I spent 2 hours sanding smooth and another 2 hours polishing and I'm about half way thru. Next friday I plan to work on it until it is finished, then start the final reinstall of the radiator and hoses.

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It's always a good thing when you finally get to install a part for the last time. I like the way the radiator hoses turned out, very clean looking.
 
I'm 3 years into a 5 year plan. Right now, driving every chance I get and collecting parts for the winter of working on it. Hopefully the interior will be done(seats recovered,new seat belts, and the right carpet), maybe except for the small things. I will also be doing sub frame connectors and some other things underneath. Have it back on the road in the spring, and then drive the crap out of it for the summer, body and paint will start up in the fall, and with any luck it will be finished enough to drive the following spring except for the small stuff of course. If it all works out that way,Thats the plan.
 
This weekend I started prepping all the interior pieces that need dying. I contacted Legendary Interiors to get the correct dye to match the white seats. The pieces that need dying are: dash pad, kick panels, console, rear interior side panels, head rests, seat hinge covers, front arm rest pads, rear arm rest pads, lower rear seat belt clips, all four seat belt covers, steering wheel pad and seat adjuster knobs. The console took quite a bit of time to strip while trying to not loose the grain. All and all, the previous two colors sprayed on it came off well. All is ready to dye except for the head rests and seat adjuster knobs.

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